just need a few questions answered regarding my setup.

randpost
10+ year member

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Hi, this is my first post here on this forum and I am going to start by describing my car audio setup and then asking a few questions about the setup.

110a alternator (stock)

upgraded starter battery - Kinetik 1400

0 gauge BIG 3 upgrade

0 gauge run to a distribution block near the rear hatch 13 ft

distribution block has 1 - 0 gauge input and 2 - 4 gauge outputs plus 2 - 8 gauge outputs.

I have 1 - 4 gauge from distribution block connected to a p-400.4 (birth sheet = 78wrms at 4ohms x 4chan)

I have the second 4 gauge output from the dist block running to my sub amp t10001BD (birthsheet = 1580 @ 1ohm

I have 1 - 8 gauge wire running to a line driver with a 1 amp inline fuse (not much power)

QUESTIONS:

1.) Lets say that all my wires are good wires. Is the 4 gauge wire to my t10001BD amp enough to supply the full 1580w rms? Its about a 3ft run of 4 gauge wire from dist block to amp.

2.) I know I don't want to run a second 0 gauge wire from my engine compartment ( I want to avoid drilling a hole through the firewall and the main grommet will not hold a second 0 gauge wire). So should I add a second battery in the cargo area just to run wires straight from the second battery to my amps? 1 - 0 gauge, 1 - 4 gauge, and one 8 gauge. this way I can bypass the distribution block.

-------------------------------

I know I should probably upgrade my alternator, but I usually don't bump my subs too hard. I may show off for a few minutes a day but not too often, so I don't really strain my charging system on my current setup. My lights never dim and I never fully discharge my battery.

Any insight is welcomed, and thanks.

1 added question.

I'm running 2 type R's 4ohm dvc's wired at 1 ohm. They have put up with the additional power quite well. Can you recommend a pair of 12's that would fit in my setup perfectly and sound far better?

I like the type R's. The bass is good, but not the cleanest, but I do enjoy how loud they get at the price point they're at. purchased them at 50.00 each still boxed and looked brand new (Stolen?)

Like everyone else, I'm looking for something thats just as loud but tighter and cleaner sounding.

I have 2 separate enclosures each enclosure is tuned to 33hz with 2cu ft with the type R installed. Would really like to reuse the enclosures also.

 
Hi, this is my first post here on this forum and I am going to start by describing my car audio setup and then asking a few questions about the setup.
110a alternator (stock)

upgraded starter battery - Kinetik 1400

0 gauge BIG 3 upgrade

0 gauge run to a distribution block near the rear hatch 13 ft

distribution block has 1 - 0 gauge input and 2 - 4 gauge outputs plus 2 - 8 gauge outputs.

I have 1 - 4 gauge from distribution block connected to a p-400.4 (birth sheet = 78wrms at 4ohms x 4chan)

I have the second 4 gauge output from the dist block running to my sub amp t10001BD (birthsheet = 1580 @ 1ohm

I have 1 - 8 gauge wire running to a line driver with a 1 amp inline fuse (not much power)

QUESTIONS:

1.) Lets say that all my wires are good wires. Is the 4 gauge wire to my t10001BD amp enough to supply the full 1580w rms? Its about a 3ft run of 4 gauge wire from dist block to amp.

2.) I know I don't want to run a second 0 gauge wire from my engine compartment ( I want to avoid drilling a hole through the firewall and the main grommet will not hold a second 0 gauge wire). So should I add a second battery in the cargo area just to run wires straight from the second battery to my amps? 1 - 0 gauge, 1 - 4 gauge, and one 8 gauge. this way I can bypass the distribution block.

-------------------------------

I know I should probably upgrade my alternator, but I usually don't bump my subs too hard. I may show off for a few minutes a day but not too often, so I don't really strain my charging system on my current setup. My lights never dim and I never fully discharge my battery.

Any insight is welcomed, and thanks.

1 added question.

I'm running 2 type R's 4ohm dvc's wired at 1 ohm. They have put up with the additional power quite well. Can you recommend a pair of 12's that would fit in my setup perfectly and sound far better?

I like the type R's. The bass is good, but not the cleanest, but I do enjoy how loud they get at the price point they're at. purchased them at 50.00 each still boxed and looked brand new (Stolen?)

Like everyone else, I'm looking for something thats just as loud but tighter and cleaner sounding.

I have 2 separate enclosures each enclosure is tuned to 33hz with 2cu ft with the type R installed. Would really like to reuse the enclosures also.
Depends on how long the runs of $ga are. More than likely they are short enough. (less than 4 feet)

Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes

As for the second battery you are going to be hard pressed to find a better deal.

Audio Savings | NEW KINETIK KR5112/KHC1400 POWER CELL RACING BATTERY

I would drill the second hole for the 0 ga if it were me because depending on the vehicle, if it is a unibody it may be hard to find a really solid chassis ground. Also upgrading your alt is not a bad idea at all. A solid 160 amp on up unit would be a very good upgrade.

 
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randpost

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