Just installed new system and sub randomly hitting when the car is off?? Help!

[Jepalan]

I do not think it is bad ground and I do not think it is an RCA problem. The amp should be *off* and therefore no power should get to sub.

Do this first...

Remove the REM wire from the amp entirely. Turn off the car and see if it pulses. If it does not, then you are getting random turn-on pulses from the REM wire. You will need to trace it back to see where it is connected. Post back here when done.

 

[MasonSS 10+ year member]

I do not think it is bad ground and I do not think it is an RCA problem. The amp should be *off* and therefore no power should get to sub.
Do this first...

Remove the REM wire from the amp entirely. Turn off the car and see if it pulses. If it does not, then you are getting random turn-on pulses from the REM wire. You will need to trace it back to see where it is connected. Post back here when done.

Smart thinking.

The issue for me as a newbie is that these wires go like inside the car. Where? I don't know, I've never wired my own setup lol. Just under stuff that you can't simply lift up and look.

Then I'm sure it goes into the back/wiring of the head unit, which is the stock GPS/popup navigation system on the Cadillac CTS

Which I'm absolutely not going to try removing myself lol.

Any tips?

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Smart thinking.
The issue for me as a newbie is that these wires go like inside the car. Where? I don't know, I've never wired my own setup lol. Just under stuff that you can't simply lift up and look.

Then I'm sure it goes into the back/wiring of the head unit, which is the stock GPS/popup navigation system on the Cadillac CTS

Which I'm absolutely not going to try removing myself lol.

Any tips?

You are running an LOC (Line OUTPUT Converter). Allows the factory headunit to have RCA's. And I am betting they used the LOC with remote turnon. Get rid of that remote turnon and find a fuse in the fusebox that is switched, buy an add a fuse, and wire into that fuse for your remote. No more intermittent bumping

 

[mrpep]

I had a set up a long time ago where when ever I shut off my car the speakers would pop once. It seemed to me like the amp took a second to remove the leftover voltage after it was shut off and would remove it through the audio terminals. It was weird and this is my own philosophy on this so don't take it to heart. The amps and woofers lasted years and I never had any issues or damage. I think it just had something to do with the amp or HU taking an extra second to shut off. Have you tested with another amp? or HU?

 

[mrpep]

Just trace down the wire to where it's grounded at. Take it to the battery direct yes you did good by unhooking the amp until you can track down the issue

ground to the battery direct? I've always heard that you want your ground cables at least 3 - 4 ft long.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

ground to the battery direct? I've always heard that you want your ground cables at least 3 - 4 ft long.

The path of least resistance is the best be it grounding in the back or battery. With the new frameless cars the battery or even the alternator is better. When you start running muliti thousand watt setups you need the best ground possible

 

[MasonSS 10+ year member]

You are running an LOC (Line OUTPUT Converter). Allows the factory headunit to have RCA's. And I am betting they used the LOC with remote turnon. Get rid of that remote turnon and find a fuse in the fusebox that is switched, buy an add a fuse, and wire into that fuse for your remote. No more intermittent bumping

I bolded the words I understand

lol

 

[MasonSS 10+ year member]

I had a set up a long time ago where when ever I shut off my car the speakers would pop once. It seemed to me like the amp took a second to remove the leftover voltage after it was shut off and would remove it through the audio terminals. It was weird and this is my own philosophy on this so don't take it to heart. The amps and woofers lasted years and I never had any issues or damage. I think it just had something to do with the amp or HU taking an extra second to shut off. Have you tested with another amp? or HU?

I haven't tested it with either.

I'm thinking of going with this answer. 1) because I can just ignore it and I'm tired and everything else is too complicated, and 2) because it actually does make sense. Maybe I'll plug it in, see if it just thumps once before turning on and after turning off. If it's only once, you may be onto something.

If it does it multiple times when it's off, this probably isn't true.

Agree?

 

[Jepalan]

If you disconnect the wire going to the *rem* terminal on the amp, does it still pop with the car turned off??????????

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

I am 100% sure the remote turn on is your problem. Had the same problem in my daughters car. Newer cars still send a signal thru the head unit when the car is off. So an LOC with remote turn on keeps seeing a signal go on and off. So it turns the amp on and off constantly. Remove the remote wire and establish a new switched remote wire and the problem will be gone.

 

[mrpep]

I am 100% sure the remote turn on is your problem. Had the same problem in my daughters car. Newer cars still send a signal thru the head unit when the car is off. So an LOC with remote turn on keeps seeing a signal go on and off. So it turns the amp on and off constantly. Remove the remote wire and establish a new switched remote wire and the problem will be gone.

this could be a good option as well. If you find that the remote is malfunctioning just run a constant power to your amp remote and use a switch to turn on and off. I had this set up once upon a time too and the only issue I had once or twice was forgetting to shut off switch in the winter and the battery drained so be careful for that. I still believe that it is just power that takes a second to drain when shutting down , experiment and run tests till you feel sure. Try this too, have someone shut off the car and see how long it takes for power light to shut off on your amp. Im just throwing ideas out here, hope it helps.

 

[MasonSS 10+ year member]

^ Alright, I'll have to get one of those on/off switches for the remote power.

Where do I get one??

Thanks a ton!

 

[CSCStang]

^ Alright, I'll have to get one of those on/off switches for the remote power.
Where do I get one??

Thanks a ton!

Go to the fuse box in your cab and find an acc fuse. Go get an add a fuse at pep boys and add it in. The lead coming out of it goes to your amp remote wire. Real easy to do.

 

[MasonSS 10+ year member]

Go to the fuse box in your cab and find an acc fuse. Go get an add a fuse at pep boys and add it in. The lead coming out of it goes to your amp remote wire. Real easy to do.

So I buy this "add a fuse" thing and it's just plug and play basically? Then how do I shut the amp and sub off?

From the way the guys above described it, it sounded like a device I plug the remote on off into, it has like an 'on off' switch itself, and when i get out or in the car I'll turn it off and on there. From that little device the remote on off goes back into the amp like it normally would.

Is that not what they were describing?

 

[CSCStang]

So I buy this "add a fuse" thing and it's just plug and play basically? Then how do I shut the amp and sub off?
From the way the guys above described it, it sounded like a device I plug the remote on off into, it has like an 'on off' switch itself, and when i get out or in the car I'll turn it off and on there. From that little device the remote on off goes back into the amp like it normally would.

Is that not what they were describing?

Just plug in and play. Use an "acc" fuse so when you turn the car off, the amp will shut off too.