Is this how to wire a 2nd battery? (pics)

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

umm i think that would fall somewhere under AMP install not BATTERY install.... and that is also assuming the amps dont have built in fuses

 

[lincolnls 10+ year member]

be smart do not creat a ground loop.

run wire from front battery + to rear battery +, and then a run from front battery- to rer battery negative.

then hook up your amps - directly to the rear battery -

also run a new ground from your headunit to the front or rear battery.

if you play your stereo witht he car off put a solinoid up by the front battery inline with the +, that way when the car is not running your stereo runs off of the rear battery and you can run it empty and then put the key in the ignition and go

 

[lincolnls 10+ year member]

The last pic provides 0 resitance to all amps. .

huh?

there is resisatance there buddy too,(less thou) unless you have found a way to defy physics

 

[saywhat? 5,000+ posts]

fuse at front power under hood, fuse before rear battery, same wire, then fuse from bat to amp. least thats what ive always seen.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

umm i think that would fall somewhere under AMP install not BATTERY install.... and that is also assuming the amps dont have built in fuses

Has nothing to do with protecting the amp and everything to do with protecting the wire/car. You should know this. Any + wire coming from a battery should have a fuse on it comensurate with the size of the wire installed as close to the battery as possible.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

lol WRONG if the second battery is in the same compartment as the amps then it doesnt need an extra fuse (aka trunk).... you fuse components and to protect the wire you fuse if it passes through metal 18" away from the battery or closer if need be....

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

lol WRONG if the second battery is in the same compartment as the amps then it doesnt need an extra fuse (aka trunk).... you fuse components and to protect the wire you fuse if it passes through metal 18" away from the battery or closer if need be....

Per the old installation judging rules of USAC and IASCA, that would be true...however adding a fuse is never wrong, now is it...

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

when adding unneeded resistance it can be. i have seen people go through and fuse + and grounds the same way just because in theory its a good idea but reality says its a waste of money. also that battery rule is standard mecp and n.a.m.e.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Fusing grounds is pointless. There shouldn't be much resistance through the fuse at least not enough to really worry about.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Fusing grounds is pointless. There shouldn't be much resistance through the fuse at least not enough to really worry about.

in db drag everyone takes them out and it makes a few .10s of a db difference..but in a daily if the amps dont have built in fuses you still have to fuse those within 24" ..its just that now most amps are fused

 

[orphe 10+ year member]

Of course I will have fuses.

I was planning to place one near the front BAtt as well as the rear BAtt on both + terminals

 

[beckSHO 10+ year member]

Would you still need to ground your front battery though?

That is if you go with the third drawing, + on front batt to + on rear, and - on front batt to - on rear.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

If you don't ground the front battery, the batteries won't have a complete circuit withe the alt and won't charge. At the same time the rest of the car's electrics won't work either.