Is there a better web site

[Jason Eden 10+ year member]

I have asked a few ? on this site thinking you guys would like to help a newbie but I guess I was wrong. the best thread I had going was when I asked about sa vs skar " only because some hate skar " is there a site I can get bit more input. about speakers and box design. thinks to anyone that can help.

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[ssteele18 10+ year member]

Don't take it personally man.. Things are pretty slow here lately, with classes starting up for alot of people and whatnot. Any questions, you can email me. I'd like to help out in any way I can.

 

[rebelfromva 10+ year member]

Learn here but best to use multiple reviews when comparing

 

[Dtrom 10+ year member]

I have asked a few ? on this site thinking you guys would like to help a newbie but I guess I was wrong. the best thread I had going was when I asked about sa vs skar " only because some hate skar " is there a site I can get bit more input. about speakers and box design. thinks to anyone that can help.

I've used splbassx, smd,and this site is by far the best. As far as knowledge base goes. Ppl here can be a$$holes but who cares. In my experience this site is the best to learn from when you find those willing to help you.

 

[Jason Eden 10+ year member]

Thanks, ya I know my ? are lame and might have been answered a few times, but i have used the search and my ? not quite answered. I have found a few people that I have pmed that have been helpfull but I didnt want to bother the same person over and over. I just thought there might have been a site with more viewers more chance to get ?'s answered. Thanks Jason

 

[perferd 10+ year member]

I have had the complete opposite experience. Each thread I have put up people reply quickly and with normally great advice. I am a complete noob/tool lol but that hasn't seemed to bother anyone just yet I guess...Also many people have been more then willing to take pm's for help...as for other sites I come here caraudioforum and diymobileaudio. Those are the 3 have have found in the 2 or so weeks I have been looking into audio forums...

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Thanks, ya I know my ? are lame and might have been answered a few times, but i have used the search and my ? not quite answered. I have found a few people that I have pmed that have been helpfull but I didnt want to bother the same person over and over. I just thought there might have been a site with more viewers more chance to get ?'s answered. Thanks Jason

That is crazy..And it is always good to get views from different perspectives, maybe some others will help

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/554403-ho-alternators-any-links-88-mazda-b2200.html

here:

http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=8446-240-HD63-1

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofers/555865-sub-help-1-12-2-10-2-8-plus-cab-mazda.html

1 SA 12 or 2 E10's What amp did you decide to use?

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Don't take it personally man.. Things are pretty slow here lately, with classes starting up for alot of people and whatnot. Any questions, you can email me. I'd like to help out in any way I can.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/ss-audio-solutions/549569-build-log-dual-alpine-10-a.html

that is a sweet little box..

 

[ssteele18 10+ year member]

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/ss-audio-solutions/549569-build-log-dual-alpine-10-a.htmlthat is a sweet little box..

Thank you! It was quite the pain, as I was in the process of getting a new circle jig. So that was all done with a makeshift jig. haha. But it did turn out nicely.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Jason Eden 10+ year member]

That is crazy..And it is always good to get views from different perspectives, maybe some others will help
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/554403-ho-alternators-any-links-88-mazda-b2200.html

here:

240A High Output Alternator for Mazda B series Pickup, 2006 4.0L Engine - 8446-240-HD63-1 | PowerBastards.com

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofers/555865-sub-help-1-12-2-10-2-8-plus-cab-mazda.html

1 SA 12 or 2 E10's What amp did you decide to use?

Thanks my b2200 is an 88 so im going to buy an old gm 1 wire or an 90's mustang alternator they put out about 160 amps for a bit over 100 bucks. Im now deciding between 1 sa 12 or 2 sa 8's v2 I talked to jacob he said 2 8's and run them in .65 ea box. I have an old 250 hcca orion from what i found 1000 rms at 1 ohm 13.5 volts

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Thanks my b2200 is an 88 so im going to buy an old gm 1 wire or an 90's mustang alternator they put out about 160 amps for a bit over 100 bucks. Im now deciding between 1 sa 12 or 2 sa 8's v2 I talked to jacob he said 2 8's and run them in .65 ea box. I have an old 250 hcca orion from what i found 1000 rms at 1 ohm 13.5 volts

that would work too. That amp will do more than that if you can keep the voltage up. It will draw a shit ton of current vs a class D 1k. Like @140a will be possible..you will need to do the Big 3 and I would at least do the biggest AGM deep cycle you can fit up front, like the Kinetiks HC2000...and you might still need another AGM.. a little smaller one like the Kinetiks 1400 near the amp would prolly work. I say Kinetiks, because I can remember the sizes off the top of my head..there are others that will work too. A $25 dash mounted digital voltage meter will help you keep tabs on what is really going on and help keep you from frying your amp or clipping a sub to death from voltage loss.

 

[Jason Eden 10+ year member]

that would work too. That amp will do more than that if you can keep the voltage up. It will draw a shit ton of current vs a class D 1k. Like @140a will be possible..you will need to do the Big 3 and I would at least do the biggest AGM deep cycle you can fit up front, like the Kinetiks HC2000...and you might still need another AGM.. a little smaller one like the Kinetiks 1400 near the amp would prolly work. I say Kinetiks, because I can remember the sizes off the top of my head..there are others that will work too. A $25 dash mounted digital voltage meter will help you keep tabs on what is really going on and help keep you from frying your amp or clipping a sub to death from voltage loss.

Hi I posted a new thread about the box I want to build if you can check it out and let me know what you think.

Im planning running a 250 hcca and a 425 hcca I was going to get a 160 amp alt. I have like a 55 amp now and I was going to run 4 ga. wire for power and grounds how much are those batteries? I can get a volt meter also what am i looking ? if my alt goes bad and drops below 12 I need to shut them off? should these thing be good to run my amp? Jason

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Hi I posted a new thread about the box I want to build if you can check it out and let me know what you think.
Im planning running a 250 hcca and a 425 hcca I was going to get a 160 amp alt. I have like a 55 amp now and I was going to run 4 ga. wire for power and grounds how much are those batteries? I can get a volt meter also what am i looking ? if my alt goes bad and drops below 12 I need to shut them off? should these thing be good to run my amp? Jason

It is not the life of the Alt you should worry about, but the life of your amps and subs from low voltage.

It takes power to make power. Your amps are a Class A/B, which while I consider them a better amp, they are not as efficient as the Class D at full output....not even in the same ballpark. When running pretty hard, the amps will be consuming a lot more current than your alt can supply. The batteries are going to be drained over time, depending on how hard you are playing. The normal flooded cell type deep cycle batteries(imagine big boat batteries) are designed to be drawn down deeper and brought back to full charge more than a regular starting battery, but they are huge batteries. The AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat)type of deep cycle battery has similar, or more current capacity than the flooded cell deep cycles in the same size case as a regular starting battery.

The AGM's are best suited to car audio, not only for their size to capacity ratio, but in their ability to be brought back to full charge quicker, allowing your alt to keep up longer. Your voltage should be kept up well above 13v when the engine is running and you are blasting away. This is where the HO alt comes in, even a 160a alt is not going to keep up with both Orions blazing and your truck running down the highway at night, unless you have a healthy and efficient battery and large enough wiring throughout. The big three (Alt to Batt +, batt to frame - and engine block to frame-)should be done with 0ga wiring. You need to run 0ga from the front battery to either a distribution block and split off to 2ga for the bass amp and 4 ga for the highs amp, or both + and - 0ga to a second batt located near the amps.

With the volt meter, you will see you voltage falling, depending on how hard you are playing and you can back off on the volume as needed to allow the electrical system to keep up. The 160a alt will be good, but as a factory alt, the idle current may be weak. I know this may seem like a lot to soak in, but it beats the heck out of a blown amp, sub or both.

 

[skylineTT 10+ year member]

I have never seen any of your threads, but I usually try to help when I see n00bs really needing advice. I'll keep an eye out.

 

[Jason Eden 10+ year member]

you have a link to those bat , would a KINETIK 1800 be a good bat. i saw 2000 and 2400 all right around 200 to 250.00 I can do 0 ga. to grounds and back to a dist. block and run 4 ga. to amps only a few feet of 4 ga will be needed. i might be able to get a gm 1 wire 200 amp alt.. so you think its a bad idea to run the old school amps? I can sell all my amps for about 800.00 but i really always wanted to run some orions and could I get a good 2 chan 1000 watt rms amp and a good 4 chan amp for 800.00 ? thanks Jason

ps also it looks like 10 ga comming off the amps " why is that so small if I have to run 4 ga ?