Is my sub and amp compatible with the wiring that's already set up?

AmyR

Junior Member
I recently bought a new car that has had a sony head unit installed with sub and amp in the boot but they removed their sub and amp. I recently have been given an older sub and amp and would love to plug it in but I'm unsure if the cords are right, any help would be appreciated cheers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

There should be 3 photos below View attachment 26550447View attachment 26550448

 
The wire that runs to the battery is you positive (B+) the other one will be your ground. Then the rca's are the white n yellow. You'll need wire to run to the subs. And a small jumper to hook from your pos to you remote (Rem)

 
The wire that runs to the battery is you positive (B+) the other one will be your ground. Then the rca's are the white n yellow. You'll need wire to run to the subs. And a small jumper to hook from your pos to you remote (Rem)
Did you just say a jumper to the remote?

 
The wire that runs to the battery is you positive (B+) the other one will be your ground. Then the rca's are the white n yellow. You'll need wire to run to the subs. And a small jumper to hook from your pos to you remote (Rem)
DONOT run a jumper wire from + on amp to rem ( remote turn on ).

pull your radio, there should be a wire for remote turn on. that way when you turn on your radio, your amp will turn on.

 
The smaller blue wire appears to be single conductor. I would think that would be the remote wire. If there is 12volts on that wire with your radio on it is.

 
Battery + wire is ran from the car's battery + terminal to the amplifier's battery + power input. Remote wire goes from back of the head unit to the remote turn on input on the amp (it should already be ran from the head unit since you had another amp before so just find the remote input on the amp and hook it up). Next just get a wire the same gauge as the battery + wire and hook it up to the amplifier's - ground input. From the amp you will find a place to bolt it to bare metal chassis which you might already have since another amp was there before (if not you can run a wire to the negative terminal on the battery but is not recommended if the battery is under the hood since it will be a fairly long wire). RCA's which are the red and white wires hook up to the amp's sound/signal input (Left and Right). Hope this helped. It should be very easy if everything is already ran from the stereo.

 
Next get some wire, 12 gauge preferably, and hook up the + and - on the amps speaker wire inputs. Then hook it up to your sub. You need to provide us with more info like what sub (and its ohm rating and if it is single voice coil or dual voice coils) and amp you have so we can tell you the best and safest way to wire them. This step is extremely important or else damage will likely occur to the amp and or sub.

 
Not completely correct. It looks like your amp can be bridged. The lines pointing to the + left channel and - right channel indicate that. Your amp will run all available power through one channel instead of dividing it. Can't tell for sure from pic. We REALLY need to know what sub and amp you have.

 
It has been bridged or are you saying it's been bridged incorrectly?

The sub says it's 'Lanstar Viberant' and the amp is 'Ken wood kac-723'

 
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Your amp is bridgeable but it is not bridged now. Use the outside speaker terminals as I said in previous post. When an amp is bridged it is running all the power to a single channel (mono). Due to this you only need to use a single RCA. Front left. Your amp will put out 200w @ 2ohms when bridged. It is actually a super sweet amp. It is a Japaneses made Kenwood from 93 I think.

The sub is a Lanzar vibrant. They made a dual voice coil and a single voice coil model. Really need to know which version you have. The wiring of the sub helps determine how much power your amp will try to put out. You don't always just hook up positive to positive and negative to negative. You will NEED to pull the sub from the box and see if it has one or two sets of speaker terminals. You may even be able to get the model number off a sticker in there.

 
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