Is my Kinetik HC800 Battery bad? NEED HELPP!! THANKS!

One of my friend said that when you test these batteries at the store, you tell them to type in 200 CCA then test. That's the correct

way for Kinetiks. Is this true?

 
go online, find a "battery load tester", buy it, and test it. I did and tested 5 yellow tops I had sitting around and four of them read in the 700-800ca range and one was like 300 or so, and it was bad. I also had a yellow top that read 2.1v lol, which in my estimates is 5 out of 6 cells being bad (2.1v * 6 = 12.6, which is what they typically rest at)... and I load tested it and the analog dial barely moved at all...

ps a load tester will run you about $20 thats it.

 
ok ill tell u again since u seemed to skip right over my post in the other thread.... you dont test your battery when your vehicle is running load it up when the engine is NOT running with a proper electrical system in your vehicle your batterys should NOT be powering your stuff in the vehicle its all coming from the alt turn your vehicle off put a dmm on it and put a nice load on it and watch ur voltage drop

 
ok ill tell u again since u seemed to skip right over my post in the other thread.... you dont test your battery when your vehicle is running load it up when the engine is NOT running with a proper electrical system in your vehicle your batterys should NOT be powering your stuff in the vehicle its all coming from the alt turn your vehicle off put a dmm on it and put a nice load on it and watch ur voltage drop
I never tested it with the engine on. I took the battery out the car and brought it in the shop for them to test.

I was just letting you know what my voltage is when my system is on full tilt because I have a digital volt meter in my car.

As far as testing wise, it was never tested with the engine on. The battery rest between 12.8 - 12.9 by itself unconnected.

 
go online, find a "battery load tester", buy it, and test it. I did and tested 5 yellow tops I had sitting around and four of them read in the 700-800ca range and one was like 300 or so, and it was bad. I also had a yellow top that read 2.1v lol, which in my estimates is 5 out of 6 cells being bad (2.1v * 6 = 12.6, which is what they typically rest at)... and I load tested it and the analog dial barely moved at all...ps a load tester will run you about $20 thats it.
Yellowtops are different from Kinetiks because they're meant to be used as a car battery that helps audio voltage a little bit. Kinetiks are pure audio batteries.

 
Yellowtops are different from Kinetiks because they're meant to be used as a car battery that helps audio voltage a little bit. Kinetiks are pure audio batteries.
a battery is a battery and ive told u before that looking at voltage when the car is running is pointless... this is why i stopped helping with electrical problems on this site... yall dont listen but what do i know

 
a battery is a battery and ive told u before that looking at voltage when the car is running is pointless... this is why i stopped helping with electrical problems on this site... yall dont listen but what do i know
I never tested the battery with the engine on. I'm sorry, but I don't know where you're getting that from.

The only time i got it tested was when I disconnected the battery and brought it to the shop.

I was just letting you know the voltage when the car is on because I have a stinger digital reading hooked up to my car.

And yes I understand when you said that looking at voltage when car is on is pointless.

The battery is resting at 12.9 with all the wires disconnected from the car. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks

 
I never tested the battery with the engine on. I'm sorry, but I don't know where you're getting that from.The only time i got it tested was when I disconnected the battery and brought it to the shop.

I was just letting you know the voltage when the car is on because I have a stinger digital reading hooked up to my car.

And yes I understand when you said that looking at voltage when car is on is pointless.

The battery is resting at 12.9 with all the wires disconnected from the car. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks
ok well its pretty simple man you have a volt meter in your car? hook it to that battery engine off key on turn ur stereo up and look at the voltage... how do you expect someone to say if its a bad battery or not if you cant give us something besides a midtronics readout easy way to test it yourself right there... you say u have a stinger vm in your car take the leads to that and put it on your battery turn your stereo up and look at the voltage?

 
I never tested the battery with the engine on. I'm sorry, but I don't know where you're getting that from.The only time i got it tested was when I disconnected the battery and brought it to the shop.

I was just letting you know the voltage when the car is on because I have a stinger digital reading hooked up to my car.

And yes I understand when you said that looking at voltage when car is on is pointless.

The battery is resting at 12.9 with all the wires disconnected from the car. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks
you keep throwing a number up to where the voltage drops when your playing your system beleive it or not your stereo can be used to test it

 
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