Inexpensive door sealing

[jordon]

Jw if anybody knew a cheap way to seal up your doors for some door speakers. Also anyone know where to get cheap mlv(mass loaded vinyl) for my doors. I don't hear much road noise now so it doesn't have to be the best stuff.

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[bradl79 10+ year member]

@keephopealive

deadener: http://www.amazon.com/Reckhorn-Self-adhesive-Deadener-Aluminium-Damping/dp/B005JRZPMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440085043&sr=8-1&keywords=reckhorn
mlv: 4 ft. x 8 ft. Acoustical Barrier-DB348X96BX - The Home Depot

 

[jordon]

[quote name='bradl79']@keephopealive

deadener: Amazon.com: Reckhorn ABX 21.5 Sq Ft X 80 Mil Thick Self-adhesive Sound Deadener Aluminium Foil + Butyl Based Damping: Automotive
mlv: 4 ft. x 8 ft. Acoustical Barrier-DB348X96BX - The Home Depot[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the links

 

[tommymilan311]

[quote name='bradl79']@keephopealive

deadener: http://www.amazon.com/Reckhorn-Self-adhesive-Deadener-Aluminium-Damping/dp/B005JRZPMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440085043&sr=8-1&keywords=reckhorn
mlv: 4 ft. x 8 ft. Acoustical Barrier-DB348X96BX - The Home Depot[/QUOTE]

Have you used these? And how did they work? I've been wanting to do some sound deadening and noise canceling myselft. Also, awesome build here: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive.html. Dude is local, I still need to check out his build.

 

[jordon]

I know how to do it. Your right great build thread. Just wondering how to do it cheaply

 

[bradl79 10+ year member]

Have you used these? And how did they work? I've been wanting to do some sound deadening and noise canceling myselft. Also, awesome build here: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive.html. Dude is local, I still need to check out his build.

yes and they work great, the deadener has been very good, its has gotten to about 110+ degrees this summer and no issues with it falling off, it seems pretty thick and sticks very well, as for the mlv that works great too but read through the thread u linked

 

[jordon]

yes and they work great, the deadener has been very good, its has gotten to about 110+ degrees this summer and no issues with it falling off, it seems pretty thick and sticks very well, as for the mlv that works great too but read through the thread u linked

Did you use one roll one each door?

 

[bradl79 10+ year member]

Did you use one roll one each door?

1 roll of deadener covered all 4 doors and trunk lid

1 roll of the mlv covered 4 doors

 

[jordon]

Dang alright thanks sounds good. Just need to figure out how to seal them up now.

 

[Umbra]

Dang alright thanks sounds good. Just need to figure out how to seal them up now.

I've used aluminum sheet metal (stuff is crazy sharp, use tin snips and thick gloves) - cut pieces bit bigger than the access holes they'd be covering. Slap some of that CLD tile onto it and use closed cell foam weatherstripping adhesive around the edges to decouple it from the door (Frost King is one brand, get it at the hardware store for a couple bucks a roll). Use self-tapping sheet metal screws to secure it (obviously make sure you're not drilling into or obstructing the window). Aluminum tape is also very handy.

You can also use wood or MDF, but you have to waterproof it. MDF absorbs water like a sponge. If you go this route you could wrap it in aluminum tape (I do that for MDF baffles/adapters).

Obligatory KHA Build log plug: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive.html

 

[lew-e 10+ year member]

I used abs plastic cut a little larger than the opening I wanted to seal. Ccf'd the entire inside part because I didn't feel like just doing the edges for decoupling. Then put deadener over top. Voila

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[ladysmanfelpz 10+ year member]

I think I'm gonna try that abs plastic route. I know people say you need to "seal" your door to get that midbass kick, but you really only need to separate the back wave from the front wave. Plus I only have stock speakers currently so not like I'm gonna be blowing my doors off. Not wanting to drill sheet metal into my doors, I simply just put a layer of dynamat over my access holes on the inner door skin to do the trick. The thing is is I can hear it moving, cracking, and creaking on turns and bumps. Pretty annoying and fairly noticeable. It did decrease my roadnoise, but being flimsy I can't help but think it does a poor job of blocking out those 60-200 hz frequencies. I now know it is necessary to give the CLD something to adhere to. I think the abs plastic will be a safe alternative to sheetmetal and give my door the rigidity and ability to add multiple layers of dynamat to serve its true purpose.