I'm putting together a complete system.

Thatm my friend, is a myth. Going with a bigger sub gives you more output, it doesn't change the frequency response of the driver. The box does. You can see my box specs in the signature. It's perfect for pretty much all music and I can still get very good output at 30Hz and below - that's that decaf stuff. It also blends perfectly with my front very well. Again, talk to CSCStang, he's the expert on box building and tuning. I just know what sounds good and what doesn't, but only once it's built haha
That's was speaking about the size of the box. I was under the impression that the larger the box, the lower the hz, and you lose a little up top.

 
I think we can put this thread to rest for now. ArmyNavy, here's the outline for your near future.1. Get the JBL 1000Ez

2. Talk to CSCStang as he offered to give you a hand. I think you can aim in the 2.5 cu ft range.

3. Most amp manuals say the same stuff. Set the gain to match the output voltage of your HU. Turn it down from there, if needed, and call it a day. Not rocket science.

4. Let us know how things are going once you've started the box building process.
That amp had a DSP and EZ gain. Both of which he didn't understand from what I'm seeing.

 
I think we can put this thread to rest for now. ArmyNavy, here's the outline for your near future.1. Get the JBL 1000Ez

2. Talk to CSCStang as he offered to give you a hand. I think you can aim in the 2.5 cu ft range.

3. Most amp manuals say the same stuff. Set the gain to match the output voltage of your HU. Turn it down from there, if needed, and call it a day. Not rocket science.

4. Let us know how things are going once you've started the box building process.
Ok will do.

 
I got the D4, i can go up on the budget.
Im running 2 DVC 2 ohm Squbed 310s on approx 1200-1500 rms, and they slamm pretty hard in 4 cuft @32 htz @2 ohms.Excellent subs..Both took approx 2-3 weeks to really loosen up to really slamm.Any more power,and I feel like Ill be looking at creasing my roof as I havent gone through the expense and time to deadened it up.Id take the store credit and find as much power as you can,even add some funds if necessary at 2ohms,or use it for amping materials,0ga?extra batt? ect, and buy a different amp elswhere with some power you need really need/want to reach the rms factor on the sub.There is nothing wrong running 2 ohm mono,as in most cases is less stressful than running @1ohm

 
The rule of thumb about port area is a DD thing. Apply that to other company's subs at your own risk. Do the right thing and model it or pay someone well-respected to design your enclosure.

 
Ok my brothers system is cutting in and out. Different car, same setup. Amp stays on, no protect light, but the sub cuts out. Gain is at 65/80... input level is 50%. Solid ground, no idea wtf is going on. This is very frustrating.

 
Cuts out, comes back on... boom boom... out... a minute later boom boom... out. I really can't honestly figure out wtf is going on.

9 years ago, I bought a **** Solo Baric L7, Hifonics Brutus 1500w amp, and a prefab sealed box, couldn't tell you what gauge wire I used and didn't have a single problem. Car bumped for 10 hours straight from NC to NY 2 days after install.

I can't even get this setup to play for more than 5 minutes.

I understand I'm not a car audio guru, but what could I possibly be doing wrong? It's 4 **** connections for power. I turned the gain up to 72/80 for a song if that clipped the amp to death, then these amps are effing garbage.

 
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