If this were your truck....how would you do the set up?

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drbizerk
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Here is what I'm working with

Year: 1993

Make: Chevy

Model: c1500 Silverado 2wd Ext Cab v8

Alternators: 2 Singer 270amp & 1 factory upgraded 140 amp

Batteries: 1 Optima Redtop 1000 ca (up front) & 2 UPS style (northstar) 190ah (in the bed)

Headunit: None (iPod touch)

EQ: Clarion 7 band

Amps: Sundown SAX100.4 & 2 Digital Designs m4's (most recent version) strapped @.5

Subs: 2 Digital Designs 9515H d2 with shorting rings and I baskets and soft parts (8cu @33Hz blowthru)

I have had many configurations with this stuff and I'm primarily looking for advice regarding the

electrical/charging system. For example, I am not sure what ground locations would be best, how many runs of 1/0 do I use for ground and power, 1 electrical or 2 separate electrical systems.

 
I'd at least double up on batteries and if you have 2 alternators I'd hope you have 1 or 2 runs of 1/0 to the rear. Running 6 or 8 1/0 cables from front to rear seems most helpful in DB Drag "street" class and similar where you're limited to only battery under the hood.

Are those amps even designed for 18V or are they designed to make best power at real world (after drop) voltages? I know some of the DD amps are designed to run at 12V assuming you're dropping from high 14's. If they'll do 18V and you're thinking of replacing the batteries you could easily buy some 16V batteries to replace your back bank and use the HO alternator dedicated to just the amps.

Any pics of the current setup?

 
the amps are designed to run at 12v. I only have two runs of 1/0 going to the back. I'll get some pics up to make things easier

 


 

---------- Post added at 08:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 PM ----------

 



 

---------- Post added at 08:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 PM ----------

 



 
when I mentioned two electrical systems I was wondering if it would be worth running two 12v systems? Because I don't have an isolator and linking a red top to the back batteries might not be a good idea, right?

 
when I mentioned two electrical systems I was wondering if it would be worth running two 12v systems? Because I don't have an isolator and linking a red top to the back batteries might not be a good idea, right?
I wouldn't so much worry about isolating electrical systems, particularly since the stock alternator is likely able to help out with the draw on the rear much of the time. If you're worried, put an AGM up front and add a couple more in the back. I'd definitely want to see 50-55AH of battery bank per 1000W of power. Depending how hard to drive things you may gain some performance from another run of 1/0 from the HO alt to the battery bank, but if it were me I'd just wait for 15 feet to turn up FS cheap on the forum and pick it up then (in fact I do typically buy random pieces of big cable when they come up here just to have).

How thick is that box? Have you resin'd the inside? Are those subs flush mounted? Looks very nice by the way.

 
I have exactly 15 ft that I've been holding on to.....I somehow got the idea in my head that I should run a few 1/0 runs on the ground side as well.

So, grounding all three alternators to the frame and the batteries to the frame and amps also to the frame is the way to go? I have 3 MK gel 100ah batteries sitting in my garage. Would it be ok to add them or should I stick with all the same type?

The box is 1" MDF throughout, then on the top and bottom I added a 5/8" layer, also added 3/4" for the sides where its recessed. It is resin'd, subs aren't flush mounted because it was a rushed build. It took about 4 hours from start to finish and thank you

 
I'd mix match the batteries to add more if I had them, but others may argue or have some evidence to make a case against. Just make sure all load test good for sure as one dud will hurt the rest (though this should be done periodically even if they're identical).

Personally I run grounds to multiple points on the body from my battery bank. Dunno if it helps, but short scraps of 1/0 are cheap and it can't hurt. I've never bothered running - from the amp(s) to the front (again I think might help more if you are limited to only the under the hood battery). All alternators chasis' should be grounded to the frame for sure.

If the box is 1.5 inches all around it should be pretty solid. This is easily verified by just holding your hand on it when your banging on it. If you can feel the box vibrating you're losing output.

Do you own a meter? Are you chasing 10ths or just looking to do a new build because you enjoy doing it? I'd expect you have an uphill battle to make any big gains from where you're sitting there since things look quite sound.

 
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drbizerk

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