if a FI fully loaded is the way to go, then why dont they call come fully loaded...

I don't know why the OP is so hard headed. As much as you don't want to relate speakers to cars in terms of fully loaded or not they are relative. How many 5 series bmw's are there? why not just the M5? Is the M3 not faster than all the 5 series except the M5? So if you can't afford a M5 i guess just get a M3? Why have anything in between right? So why can't FI(and they're not the only ones doing this fyi) have different options for their speakers. I wouldn't put 2500 watts into a FI BL but i could put that in a BTL that's not fully loaded. Even if you're in the top 10% qualified for posters here, does that mean you can't ask dumb questions?. You ask a question(which was stupid but people were still willing to give you their insight) and because someone told you it's a stupid question you got all defensive and insulted the guy, grow up. If you really need to come here and posts a question like that without thinking logically than yes, it's a stupid question. Does everyone have to break down how many watts each series can handle with what options and why you would jump up in series for you to understand why FI subwoofers have different options or are you intelligent enough to figure that out for yourself. Maybe you should have done that before making this thread.

 
LOL call DD and ask them whats more efficient with 1000 watts and would get louder, a 3500 or 9500. Eat your words. Even pete at hexibase has said that he would use a 2500 series over any other including the 9500 if 1000 watts was being used. Again letme guess it was a meter and the 4 18s were alot louder in person... Also i have no idea what this "street box" is... I doubt the 4 18s had the minimum of 24cubes required and your 2 15s had 10cubes.
Actually, he had 26 cubes in the back of a plymouth voyager. The fact that you do not understand what a street box is shows your lack of knowledge. Also no they sounded pretty similar since there was 1 db difference. What does "in person" even mean?

I talk to DD on a regular basis. The 9500 is their most efficient Ferrite based motor. Everyone... but you apparently knows that. YOU call them and ask. The only reason they might tell you to get a sub with a lower power rating vs it, is because they know you're an idiot and would crank your gains because you couldn't make it bottom out. They have the same soft parts... what about that don't you get? Seriously call DD and ask them.

 
Your not understanding what im saying, why not just offer another series?!?!?! This sub for this power, this sub for this. Do you realize that for example a DD 3500 series WOULD get louder than a 9500 series on 2000 watts? So for example id assume believe it or not (im not an FI dealer and have not mastered the brand); that the BL would get louder on 2000 watts than a unloaded BTL simply because the motor is so massive that it takes 2500+ watts for it to meet the effieciency to "catch up".
Forget 60 pound woofers that need 3500+ watts to reach maximum efficiency when the thermal handling cant even handle it for an extended period of time (15 minutes full tilt).
You just proved you are a moron.

It doesn't take the BTL motor 2500W to start moving because of the motor, but because of the spiders. A stronger motor will ALWAYS be more efficient than a weaker one with the same soft parts, but when you put stiffer soft parts on a stronger woofer (which is required to prevent the speaker from ripping itself to pieces) it makes it much less efficient.

So yes, that explains why a 3500 will be louder than a 9500 on lower power levels; because the suspension is much stiffer on a 9500, and it requires more power to move the suspension.

You'd probably know this if you actually did own your own shop as you claim.

 
Also, anyone can have a vehicle with four 18's or own their own shop. All that takes is MONEY, not SKILL. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

I'd be more impressed if you told me you did 150+ out of a trunk with two 12's. Anyone can put four 18's in an SUV and do 50's on the meter. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
cdimic25-Ok so you are a dealer and love DD. We got that, its in any thread you jump in. I agree DD makes one of the best subs on the market period. From what I have seen from you, you put down almost any brand that is not DD. Here you are doing it again with a different twist.

Fi makes some of the best subs on the market as well. Who cares how they market their subs. DD does the same thing. You know as well as I do that DD has many options that can be done to their subs. So why does DD not just offer all that up at the same price. Why should I have to pay to upgrade parts on a DD?

Every company needs to make money and DD, Fi ect. all offer upgrades. Some are on their website some are a phone call. Either way they both can and do the same thing.

Don't get it twisted I like me some DD and have helped build a vehicle for one of the guys on their team here local in OK. Vehicle did great and the DD product was excellent. It is one of the brands I tell people to take a look at often before buying something.

Give it a rest though as it is not all about how DD does stuff. If everyone was just a like we would only need a couple brands but this would make for higher prices and that is why we have options.

 
cdimic25-Ok so you are a dealer and love DD. We got that, its in any thread you jump in. I agree DD makes one of the best subs on the market period. From what I have seen from you, you put down almost any brand that is not DD. Here you are doing it again with a different twist.
Fi makes some of the best subs on the market as well. Who cares how they market their subs. DD does the same thing. You know as well as I do that DD has many options that can be done to their subs. So why does DD not just offer all that up at the same price. Why should I have to pay to upgrade parts on a DD?

Every company needs to make money and DD, Fi ect. all offer upgrades. Some are on their website some are a phone call. Either way they both can and do the same thing.

Don't get it twisted I like me some DD and have helped build a vehicle for one of the guys on their team here local in OK. Vehicle did great and the DD product was excellent. It is one of the brands I tell people to take a look at often before buying something.

Give it a rest though as it is not all about how DD does stuff. If everyone was just a like we would only need a couple brands but this would make for higher prices and that is why we have options.
Yeah, at least Fi's upgrades have a purpose, instead of just charging $400 for a carbon cap and cone //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
Yeah, at least Fi's upgrades have a purpose, instead of just charging $400 for a carbon cap and cone //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
It's really more like $200.00 but yeah... it's pricey. Even though it's real carbon fiber and dyed certain colors it still is overpriced.

 
Your not understanding what im saying, why not just offer another series?!?!?! This sub for this power, this sub for this. Do you realize that for example a DD 3500 series WOULD get louder than a 9500 series on 2000 watts? So for example id assume believe it or not (im not an FI dealer and have not mastered the brand); that the BL would get louder on 2000 watts than a unloaded BTL simply because the motor is so massive that it takes 2500+ watts for it to meet the effieciency to "catch up".
Forget 60 pound woofers that need 3500+ watts to reach maximum efficiency when the thermal handling cant even handle it for an extended period of time (15 minutes full tilt).
You are incorrect in assuming that a lower level sub will perform better on lesser power levels. Most, if not all, street class guys run 9500 series because they are stronger and more efficient with the same power. A good friend of mine has a street b CRX and swapped out his 9510's for 3510's and lost over a dB. The same goes for a couple street A guys I know.

I can even tell you for a fact that my 9512 has smoked EVERYTHING on EVERY power level from 400 watts to 4000. Subs on that list include an HD3, Fi BL, and a Fi Q.

You are making very general assumptions.

As for the motor thing, I think that's been covered fairly well. Options are there for what the driver is going to be used for. SPL guys want a tighter gap so they will not get the cooling or other options because it makes the motor weaker. Daily driver guys want the cooling because they plan on beating on their subs for extended periods of time. You have to give people options so they can custom tailor the sub to their install.

A fully loaded sub is NOT always the way to go.

 
Tommy, good to see you still on. I see where your coming at but I'm sure if he had built another bassrace box using the perimeters of the 3500 series and not the 9500 series than the outcome would have been different

You can make boxes that create less resistance to allow the driver to use the most of the power presented (400w). Sure the 9500 might be louder on the meter, but I'm sure we've all seen someone with 6 12s that can only do a 143 but absolutely destroy the lows and was louder than the 9500 in person from the sheer effect.

I'm done, arguing online is pointless and id have to sit some of you down to explain my logic

I get why they do the options. I just think they should fully load every subwoofer with a daily or spl build, but that's my opinion and you guys have a different one so let's agree to disagree

Nice to see Tommy and audioholic still on.

 
Tommy, good to see you still on. I see where your coming at but I'm sure if he had built another bassrace box using the perimeters of the 3500 series and not the 9500 series than the outcome would have been different You can make boxes that create less resistance to allow the driver to use the most of the power presented (400w). Sure the 9500 might be louder on the meter, but I'm sure we've all seen someone with 6 12s that can only do a 143 but absolutely destroy the lows and was louder than the 9500 in person from the sheer effect. I'm done, arguing online is pointless and id have to sit some of you down to explain my logic

I get why they do the options. I just think they should fully load every subwoofer with a daily or spl build, but that's my opinion and you guys have a different one so let's agree to disagree

Nice to see Tommy and audioholic still on.


I doubt it...you can build around the 3500 specs then drop the 9500 in the same box same power and everything and the 9500 will still come out on top. giving them 400w or 4000watts....

and obviously the 6 12s will be "louder" from your so called "sheer effect" cuz it's probably doing a 143 at like 25hz...where is the 9500 if going for numbers is tuned higher and will beat the 6 12s on the meter for score but not sound good on teh lowz. so you're so called "logic" makes no sense.

but if you want to stick to your logic...take your 6 3512s and i'll take the 6 9512s and build to "their" specs and both tune to say 35hz...then we'll see who destroys the lows and puts up better numbers. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I doubt it...you can build around the 3500 specs then drop the 9500 in the same box same power and everything and the 9500 will still come out on top. giving them 400w or 4000watts....
and obviously the 6 12s will be "louder" from your so called "sheer effect" cuz it's probably doing a 143 at like 25hz...where is the 9500 if going for numbers is tuned higher and will beat the 6 12s on the meter for score but not sound good on teh lowz. so you're so called "logic" makes no sense.

but if you want to stick to your logic...take your 6 3512s and i'll take the 6 9512s and build to "their" specs and both tune to say 35hz...then we'll see who destroys the lows and puts up better numbers. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Its a gentlemans race! Your on! haha

 
Fi is smart about the whole thing IMO. As others already said, the options are not always best to take. Adding cooling lowers BL and on a burp cooling is useless so your score will just drop. Universal is kinda nice, but again lowered BL since the gap needs to be able to fit different coil sizes. Anyone buying and underground woofer like Fi should probably know at least abit about speakers and can should be glad they can get something somewhat custom for their app.

Frankly most people dont' know jack about speakers. For most ppl, even on here, it's as simple as matching RMS on an amp to what the sub can supposedly handle. If I want a good overhung motor like on the Fi Q I'm not going to want to "step down" just so I can get something with a lower RMS rating when it wont' sound half as good or work quite as well in the box I intend to use.

 
Also consider that Fi builds their drivers to order. It's relatively simple for them to offer all the different options in the motor. The motor isn't cut until the order is placed. If they did not operate this way and instead maintained a stock of all the different options, it would cease to make sense because the overhead would kill them. This is essentially the difference between the Fi subs and the Ascendant Audio line. The AA subs use a fixed configuration because they are meant to be carried "in stock" by B&M shops instead of made to order.

Offering each different combination of options as its own series makes no sense because the differences are subtle. Should the same sub with different coil configurations be different series as well?

 
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