if a FI fully loaded is the way to go, then why dont they call come fully loaded...

go ask a car manufacturer why they have non loaded, and fully loaded cars, maybe that will answer your question.
ya subs are different than cars, but its the same concept.

fully loaded cars have features that some want, some need, some dont need, and dont want to pay for them.

if a certain company only offered fully loaded cars, they might not sell as much as someone who sells a basic car that is more affordable. which is why they offer fully loaded as an option, its not on every car.

just as fi doesnt make them handle more power, if that makes the price rise and people dont want the extra power handling ability. it would just steer people away because prices are up and nothing u can do to lower them

i would assume a top 10 person for giving advice would understand such a simple concept.
Your not understanding what im saying, why not just offer another series?!?!?! This sub for this power, this sub for this. Do you realize that for example a DD 3500 series WOULD get louder than a 9500 series on 2000 watts? So for example id assume believe it or not (im not an FI dealer and have not mastered the brand); that the BL would get louder on 2000 watts than a unloaded BTL simply because the motor is so massive that it takes 2500+ watts for it to meet the effieciency to "catch up".

Forget 60 pound woofers that need 3500+ watts to reach maximum efficiency when the thermal handling cant even handle it for an extended period of time (15 minutes full tilt).

 
stupid question... i bet im one of the top 10 most qualified d ick takers on this forum. You guys really give into hype and it kills me with laughter. Thank you Allen for giving me your legitimate scott answer.
I wonder if everyone would be singing a different tune on calling me an idiot if i mentioned i have 4 18s, i am a reputable dealer, and had a little fun in world finals plastered all over my sig.
You're one of the top 10 douchebags who will try and sell us DD products.

 
Your not understanding what im saying, why not just offer another series?!?!?! This sub for this power, this sub for this. Do you realize that for example a DD 3500 series WOULD get louder than a 9500 series on 2000 watts? So for example id assume believe it or not (im not an FI dealer and have not mastered the brand); that the BL would get louder on 2000 watts than a unloaded BTL simply because the motor is so massive that it takes 2500+ watts for it to meet the effieciency to "catch up".
Forget 60 pound woofers that need 3500+ watts to reach maximum efficiency when the thermal handling cant even handle it for an extended period of time (15 minutes full tilt).
they have different series...

the options arent huge changing factors to my knowledge.

like bp power adds 500 or less power to its rms rating. so they have the FI X series that is rated at 250rms, say ur amp does 400, u can add bp power, and run that instead of running 400 watts to an 800 rms sub (FI SSD).

then what if u want SQ, so u look at FI Q series, and ur amp does 1500 watts, well the subs are rated for 1000, well u can do the bp options and not have to worry about blowing the sub and baby ur gains as opposed to it being 1000 watts.

i havent looked at bl, btl, whatever else because im not an spl guy, so i cant speak for how those are rated and what upgrades they got or whatever.

as for ur last statement, if that is true, that they offer a sub that needs 3500 to get to maximum efficiency but yet they cant thermally handle it longer than 15 minutes, they are dumb and people who buy them are even more stupid. tho it does not sound right so i would be surprised if they offered such a sub. im sure it can handle it thermally if its rated for that much power

 
You need to think about it in a bigger picture, I fully understand what you are saying but you need to have $$ signs in your eyes. Say they do ONLY sell subs fully loaded...business is fine, but....what about those people out there that want to spend 80$ less on a sub and don't need all the extra specs (and yes there are people out there that are like this, its a fact). Well those people go to a different company to buy a sub, thus FI looses potential business. SO the solution is make a sub that is not fully loaded, thus creating more business, aka more $$$$$$$$$$$.

People's first tenancy is to find the lowest price for what they need, and that is what this is all about. Sure they can sell subs that are only fully loaded, but they would make MORE money by offering a sub that comes NOT fully loaded. And everyone, and yes I mean everyone would like to have more money.

So to sum this up, it's all about the Benjamins baby //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 
for example a DD 3500 series WOULD get louder than a 9500 series on 2000 watts? So for example id assume believe it or not (im not an FI dealer and have not mastered the brand); that the BL would get louder on 2000 watts than a unloaded BTL simply because the motor is so massive that it takes 2500+ watts for it to meet the effieciency to "catch up".
Not even close to the truth. It's a common misconception that a lot of idiots claim. "x sub needs y watts to get it moving". That's total bs and people who say it do not know what they are talking about. My 2 DD 9515's in a street box with the same power beat 4 dd 3518's in a street box. Efficiency is only going to vary with frequency.... not increase as power is applied. If you want to get technical, as more power is applied and the coil travels out of the gap, the speaker loses efficiency.... so no matter which way you look at it you're DEAD WRONG.

 
Your not understanding what im saying, why not just offer another series?!?!?! This sub for this power, this sub for this. Do you realize that for example a DD 3500 series WOULD get louder than a 9500 series on 2000 watts? So for example id assume believe it or not (im not an FI dealer and have not mastered the brand); that the BL would get louder on 2000 watts than a unloaded BTL simply because the motor is so massive that it takes 2500+ watts for it to meet the effieciency to "catch up".
Forget 60 pound woofers that need 3500+ watts to reach maximum efficiency when the thermal handling cant even handle it for an extended period of time (15 minutes full tilt).
With all the options available, and multiplying that time the number of models they have, it would mean a lot more models. I suspect this would actually end up being more confusing than simply offering different options for each model.

 
Not even close to the truth. It's a common misconception that a lot of idiots claim. "x sub needs y watts to get it moving". That's total bs and people who say it do not know what they are talking about. My 2 DD 9515's in a street box with the same power beat 4 dd 3518's in a street box. Efficiency is only going to vary with frequency.... not increase as power is applied. If you want to get technical, as more power is applied and the coil travels out of the gap, the speaker loses efficiency.... so no matter which way you look at it you're DEAD WRONG.
Really? Then why does your 9500s efficiency **** at 1000 watts vs a 2500 series? You misunderstand efficiency. Excursion only matters to a certain point, YOUR woofer gives about 70% of its power in its first 1"-1.5" of excursion and then can give the other 30% at 2.5"-3" excursion, however at that point your just causing alot of strain on the suspension.

Ill mention my 9515G beat 4 l7 15" on the mic, however in person on music its a whole different ball game... I highly doubt you beat 4 3518s if they were in a box built to even their minimum required specs on the same power... Im calling BS.

I stay off the forum for a year and half and come back to jailbirds running the jailhouse... This is messed up.

 
eh yea audioholic, i was just saying they should only offer the current series fully loaded. If you cant afford that series, go the next under. Not have a chopped down version. These people are just going nuts.

 
Really? Then why does your 9500s efficiency **** at 1000 watts vs a 2500 series? You misunderstand efficiency. Excursion only matters to a certain point, YOUR woofer gives about 70% of its power in its first 1"-1.5" of excursion and then can give the other 30% at 2.5"-3" excursion, however at that point your just causing alot of strain on the suspension.
Ill mention my 9515G beat 4 l7 15" on the mic, however in person on music its a whole different ball game... I highly doubt you beat 4 3518s if they were in a box built to even their minimum required specs on the same power... Im calling BS.

I stay off the forum for a year and half and come back to jailbirds running the jailhouse... This is messed up.
It doesn't **** at 1000 watts. You clearly have no idea what you're talking about. That's why I was able to beat the 4 3518's on the same power.

I'm not misunderstanding efficiency. You are. You made the claim that 2 subwoofers with the same soft parts (DD 3500 and 9500 series) but with different motors that the one with the stronger motor is less efficient than the weaker one. It is not true no matter how you word it.

Bottom line is more power applied results in more excursion. You have a self-defeating argument and you're not smart enough to know you're had and you're too narcissistic to admit it even if you were smart enough.

 
LOL call DD and ask them whats more efficient with 1000 watts and would get louder, a 3500 or 9500. Eat your words. Even pete at hexibase has said that he would use a 2500 series over any other including the 9500 if 1000 watts was being used. Again letme guess it was a meter and the 4 18s were alot louder in person... Also i have no idea what this "street box" is... I doubt the 4 18s had the minimum of 24cubes required and your 2 15s had 10cubes.

 
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