IB 10" Subs?...

[LaserRed38 10+ year member]

Dude you realize that IB setups require a LOT less power than normal enclosed setups? Usually an IB sub will only handle about half it's rated power rating when installed IB. That's not a rule just a generalization, but I heard a setup in a Protege with 2 15" SoundSplinter RL-p's IB off 1200w (600 each, I believe I stated 600 in another thread but I meant 600 each) and it sounded amazing and got louddddddd enough for an IB "SQ" build. Point is I hope you're planning on splitting up that power between the 3 subs..

 

[Plutoman 10+ year member]

IB does have a different sound, there's no doubt about it. You won't win any SPL comps that's for sure.

What I've noticed is the volume change wasn't all that startling, however. It seemed more a variance in the power handling that would cause the loss of volume than any other differences.

And yes, Laser, I'm running an IB setup at the current. You notice the mechanical limits when you start running over half the normal RMS power it's rated for - the sub gets a bit sloppier and less clean. It tends to handle the power fairly well, though, but it doesn't retain the SQ IB setups are known for.

I'd essentially want a sub that is rated for an RMS of 1000-1500 watts IB style - which could mean it's a bit beefy. I'd prefer to keep to a single sub setup, too, just for style's sake. But I'm not committing myself for a little while now. I just needed some price ranges so I know how much I'm needing to save.

 

[LaserRed38 10+ year member]

I woulddd recommend the SoundSplinter RL-s for that kind of power but they only come in 12 or 15 sizes so oh well...

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

the OP wants to go IB'd but can't get the whole high powered high rms shit out of his head... (did you search/research?.. doubt it)

going IB, you won't need RMS wattage to reach a sub's mechanical limits.

 

[david in german 10+ year member]

I would need to disagree about long throw subs IB. Running my FI X series at 300w for the pair got LOUD and the cones were barely moving. Anyone else that has ever done an IB install will most likely agree with me. You do not need a high excursion sub for IB.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

I would need to disagree about long throw subs IB. Running my FI X series at 300w for the pair got LOUD and the cones were barely moving. Anyone else that has ever done an IB install will most likely agree with me. You do not need a high excursion sub for IB.

for IB, Cone area > excursion.

 

[codycr6 10+ year member]

I use four inexpensive 10's in the rear deck of my Fairlane... I only run around 50RMS per sub. The Qtc is around .57, and Fs is around 30Hz, and the sound is outstanding. As said, no SPL vehicle, but it does make for a very strong, consistent bassline. My car is fairly noisy (radical engine, free flowing exhaust, some wind noise), so I need enough spl to get above this. I would guess spl's to be in the 130's with music. I use two PPI Powerclass amplifiers, a PC250 on the subs and a PC450 on the kick panels, center channel, and rear fill. I loose no trunk space (mine are in the rear deck, mounted with 3/4 MDF) and when the fabric grille is on, pretty much invisible to onlookers. Also, unless you bend down while looking in the trunk, you probably will not notice them then.

Look for a Qtc between .5-.7, be aware that the low frequency rolloff is slower than sealed, so with a low Fs the response will get really strong down low.

 

[mrogowski 5,000+ posts]

I would need to disagree about long throw subs IB. Running my FI X series at 300w for the pair got LOUD and the cones were barely moving. Anyone else that has ever done an IB install will most likely agree with me. You do not need a high excursion sub for IB.

I beg to differ. For IB, Xmax is important if you want to achieve output at lower frequencies. Case in point, take the IXL-10 for example. It has a higher than average Xmax for car audio use but based on the bottom picture will reach Xmax long before it reached Fs with 1000 watts.

The IXL-10 might be worth looking at if someone wished to use multiples, but I would still lean towards a higher Q driver.

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

Well, since displacement is a function of Bore*Stroke, you can achieve the same goals with smaller cones and more travel, compared to larger cones with less travel.

Using a driver for IB use, it seems more logical to use drivers with larger cone area, and not have to push them as far to get desired output. Since there is no restoring force on the suspension or at least MUCH less than sealed, I wouldn't want to risk over driving say a pair of 12s, when a single 18 has the same cone area.

At least that's how I take this whole IB jargon.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

What was the Xmax of the Image Dynamics IDW 15 8.5 mm? To this day IMO they eat anything I have heard IB yet in a car

 

[codycr6 10+ year member]

I know you mentioned 10's, but look at the specs on the PCX122 and PCX124 in this ebay add for a decent idea of what would work. Two of these would be fairly solid for sound quality levels if you did a good job of sealing your trunk off:

http://cgi.ebay.com/10-600w-PPI-Flat-Piston-Sub-PCX-102-Precision-Power_W0QQitemZ370159475374QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item370159475374&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A2%7C294%3A50

Model Number PCX 122 PCX 124

MSRP $199.99 $199.99

Thiele/Small Parameters

Fs (free-air resonance, Hz) 22 24

Vas / Liter / ft3 1 24 / 4.38 112.2 / 4.32

Qts (total driver Q) 0.53 0.54

Re (DC resistance, ohms) 3.7 7 3.7 7

IMPEDANCE dual 2 Ohm dual 4 Ohm

Efficiency (1W @ 1M, dB) 85 dB (1W/1M) 86 dB (1W/1M)

Xmax (one way linear excursion, mm.) 16 16

Model Number PCX 122 PCX 124

Driver Physical Dimension

SIZE 12" 12"

Mounting depth (inches *) 6 - 3/4" 6 - 3/4"

 

[codycr6 10+ year member]

Take a look at these 10's... intended for dipole use in home audio, similar to IB...

http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24_93_150&products_id=674

 

[Plutoman 10+ year member]

the OP wants to go IB'd but can't get the whole high powered high rms shit out of his head... (did you search/research?.. doubt it)
going IB, you won't need RMS wattage to reach a sub's mechanical limits.

Yes, I did. I'm not stupid. I did my research before doing my first IB install - I've already gone IB, but I would like a bit more power behind it for certain occassions. I want an RMS wattage of between 1000-1500 watts IB style - which would correspond to a sub that handles more of 1500-2000+ watts in a typical box.

Would I run it that high powered? Not all the time, but there is once in a while where I would like it to be capable.

I'm limited in cone area by the limits of my car, in addition - I can't fit a subwoofer bigger than ten inches in diameter. I'm not about to go buy a new car with a larger rear deck. I'm already planning for the structural reinforcement of my current deck - I have a ready supply of metal, wood, and cutting tools.

If I had the option, I would take a single 18 IB mounted, but I would prefer to keep my rear seats. Maybe possibly this will change in time, but I would tend to doubt it.

Now, for a single ten inch subwoofer, I need an extremely high excursion level with a high Q to achieve the bottom end goals. I don't have the cone area to compensate for the lack of excursion. Most especially with one single ten. I'd prefer to avoid multiples (but I'd rather have multiples than lose the rear seats - it just means doing much more modifications that I was originally wanting to do to the car - not to mention the extra price of each driver).

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

ID don't have the power ratings I'm looking for - I don't know on the DLS subs, however. Where can I take a look at them?
Ah, IDMAX does have more the power I'm looking at. Can't find full specs on them though :/

what specs do you need? pop over to the ID forum and ask away i'm sure matt or Eric will be glad to help out.

Dude you realize that IB setups require a LOT less power than normal enclosed setups? Usually an IB sub will only handle about half it's rated power rating when installed IB. That's not a rule just a generalization, but I heard a setup in a Protege with 2 15" SoundSplinter RL-p's IB off 1200w (600 each, I believe I stated 600 in another thread but I meant 600 each) and it sounded amazing and got louddddddd enough for an IB "SQ" build. Point is I hope you're planning on splitting up that power between the 3 subs..

x2 you don't need alot of power for a good IB system.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

some odd reason I think the nick name of this sub system will contain the word "clapper" in it.