I would pay someone if they could figure this out...

Loaked
10+ year member

Member
I get overwhelmed just thinking about this and how to describe the problem I am having... Been going on for weeks, and I am ready to kill someone.

I have a 2006 Mercedes E350 sedan. It has the Harmon Kardon Logic 7 with Navigation.

The stock amp is in the trunk, as well as a 2nd battery.

In the front door I replaced the factory 6.5" mids and the 1" tweets with a set of ID components. The Crossovers are mounted at the bottom of the door.

No sub at the moment, but a Mmats 1500.2d is sitting in the trunk with power and ground going to and from the 2nd battery in the trunk, but no remote wire hooked into it. I blew my sub a couple weeks ago, and am waiting for a new Fi SSD to arrive in about a week. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif

Everything works fine with the stock amp running the system. Sounds fine, other than the fact there is less mid-bass with the new speakers in the door, but that was expected and is fine with me, and is unrelated to the problem at hand. Just giving some background info.

So I got a brand new Diamond Audio 2ch amp. 100w x 2 @ 4 ohms. Its a D3 400.2

I went online and printed out the PDF to see what colors where what from the stock HK (harmon kardon) amp, again located in the trunk.

I took the amplified speaker wires coming out of the stock HK amp into an adjustable line level converter, then RCA's from the line level converter to the Diamond Audio Amp. Pretty standard.

Then speaker wires from the Diamond Audio amp out to the wires going to the door speakers which of course run back to the trunk.

The power for the amp is coming from the 2nd battery located in the trunk. The amp is grounded to the battery in the trunk, and the remote wire is coming is tagged from the remote wire from the HK amp. Amazingly enough it was solid blue.

With it hooked up like this, which is, again, pretty standard, and how another E350 owner has his wired, I'm getting a type of engine noise. That’s right, the dreaded ****ing engine noise. In all my years doing installs, never have I had engine noise an issue. I did an install exactly like this in other vehicles, Lexus, BMW, etc. This Mercedes has giving me more troubles than anything!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif

The noise sounds like fuzzy radio reception. It does increase in pitch with RPMs, but is almost unnoticeable. More noticeable change in pitch with a drop in RPMs rather than an increase.

Get this, its only on 1 channel...

The engine noise comes on even with NOTHING plugged into the RCA's.

It only comes on when the engine is on, of course, and takes about 20secs to come on. Its pretty loud for engine noise, and makes my tweeter give off a popping and cracking sound when I turn up the volume.

I have tried grounding the amp to the chassis, no luck. I have tried running the remote straight from the battery, no dice. I even made a little 3" jumper from the power over to the remote just for shits and giggles. I have tried a ground loop isolator during all of this.

I grounded the line level converter to the chassis as well. I have high end monster cable RCA's. All of this I don’t think matters considering I still get the engine noise whether that stuff is plugged into the amp or not.

I though ok, maybe the diamond amp is messed up. So for shits and giggles I hooked up the Mmats amp to the door speaker lol, SAME EXACT THING. I find this crazy considering the Mmats amp can’t even produce frequencies as high as the engine noise is.

It can’t be the speaker wires from the trunk to the doors, because there is no engine noise when the factory amp is hooked up like normal, like stock.

If someone can come it with a valid solution to this problem, I would PayPal them for their time, I am so fed up with this.

I can attach some pictures if it will help, not sure considering I don’t think the problem is in the input part of things. And the install is sloppy at the moment.

2010-04-151832532.jpg


2010-04-151832322.jpg


 
the little girl in the back seat is sending bad vibes to your stereo, i suggest dropping her off at a farm. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
You want her to grow up like you?

Lolz

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif:uhoh://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

 
RCA's near power cables???
Headunit RCA/fuse issue?
The noise is produced with or without the RCA cables even plugged in.

Its the stock 'headunit', again the wires are coming from a stock amp in the trunk, and how would a fuse be the issue? Just curious?

 
The stock amp still powers the other 5 speakers in the car, and is tied in to the rest of the navigation system lol. Why would I take it out?

I think this is more of a power ground issue tbh. Like I have said a few times, this noise is produced no matter if there is anything plugged in to the inputs or not.

I was thinking of running a speaker wire outside of the car straight from the amp to the speaker (crossover) to the door and see what happens. Maybe the speaker wire is picking up noise, but wouldn't it do it with the speakers going off the stock amp then?

 
It only comes on when the engine is on, of course, and takes about 20secs to come on. Its pretty loud for engine noise, and makes my tweeter give off a popping and cracking sound when I turn up the volume.
This is the same exact issue I'm having with my amp. Only on one side, on the tweeter. Except I ran all new wires and everything, I can't figure it out. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
the little girl in the back seat is sending bad vibes to your stereo, i suggest dropping her off at a farm. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
Thats my daughter... I will remove the picture, i forgot about all the useless tards on forums. Most people like kids. Although, before I had kids I didn't like kids, so I understand.

 
Run new wires for the amped speakers.... this seems obvious unless I didn't read it all thoroughly (which I didn't lol) Test this by running speaker wire on the outside of the car first.

PM when you need my paypal addy =D

 
This is the same exact issue I'm having with my amp. Only on one side, on the tweeter. Except I ran all new wires and everything, I can't figure it out. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
Your still having the same problem even after running new wires??

And yea mine mostly is coming from the tweeter too, its pretty high pitched. If you switch the L and R speaker outs on your amp does the noise change sides? Mine does. Just curious.

 
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Loaked

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