I think my alt may be dead

If it was the alternator, after starting the car or getting a jump start, you would watch the voltage slowly go down to like 11-10 volts and then either your car would die from lack of power to your fuel injection system or accessories would all turn off if carburated. Also, could be fuel pump or regulator. When the car died, did it sputter or just cut straight out?
Well it hasn't died, just refuse to start.

 
okay so i'll disconnect the power cable tomorrow and if i still have a charging issue i guess i'll just get a ho alt. Advance wanted 150 for a refurb alt, that's outrageous.

if so should a 200 amp alt give me some room to grow my system? cause as of right now i know my car needs more mids i think highs and lows are fine. But my car already has amps for the mids so i'll be disconnecting the factory ones and replacing them with whatever i find. but i can get a 200 amp alt from dc electric for $200 or a 250 for like $260. my only concern is about the company they say a 1 year warranty but i've never heard of them before one guy talking about them on this site.

here is a link to the 200 amp version DB Electrical - Ford Mustang 200 Amp High Output Alternator 4.6L 96 97 98 7776

 
are you looking at DC alternators, or DB? if your looking at DC... beware, they are extremely backed up right now... in between 1-2 months for most to recieve their alternators

the link you provided looks good... i havent heard much about db electrical... but their saying full amperage at 1200 rpm, which is good. and yes, 200 amps will leave you some room to grow your system.... if they have a 250 for 60 bucks more, you might want to look to the future a lil bit and figure out just how much your system MIGHT grow.... would **** to put a 200 in now, just to replace it 7 months down the road, for the 250.... but a 200 will be good for atleast 4-5kw, with proper batteries and wiriing

 
it could... but i'm still trying to find what rpm the bosch puts out max power... some alt's will advertise such and such amperage, but thats only at like 4-5k rpm... just something to be mindful of

 
5. Load alternator to within 10% of rate output current, using a load tester across the battery and an ammeter at the alternator terminal (B+). Voltage should remain above 12 volts, while output is within 10% of rated current.

This is under their charging systems.pdf it says to test at 2000 rpms? so idk

 
oh and i read in their faq about them that most have smaller pulleys than stock which is why most ho alts have full output around 1200rpms.
if you do enough research, you might be able to find a smaller pulley for the bosche... that way it will actually hit max power at a lower rpm

 
oh what i meant to say was that the bosch says it comes with one. also i'm trying to upgrade my battery to alt wiring in 0 gauge its the last piece of the big 3. but my stock wiring goes from the alt to the factory fuse block then to the battery which i already have my amp wire connected to the battery so i'm not sure how i could connect another terminal to it? or should i just try to wire everything through the factory distro block? and also what size fuse should i use since my alt is a 235 amp?

 
dont run any of your new wires through the distro block... keep those wires the same that they are, and then run your big 3 independantly... run your 0 gauge from your alt to your batter with a 250a fuse within 12" of the batt to protect from spikes.

 
well i got the new alt installed now i can't get it too go down below 14v unless i play a 50hz test tone and have headlights and a/c on full blast then it hits 13.99v haha thanks for the help guys.

 
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