I need more. It's not loud enough.

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

get an 80 prs instead and future proof yourself. That alpine is still half @ssed in the tuning department.

I agree

 

[kcr357 10+ year member]

Not a jab at all, curiousity. Can't really expect Zapco to produce something at that price range that represents their older much higher quality designs.

I've been watching the Zapco ST-4 for a while and this:

https://www.mmatsproaudio.com/site/product/ls800x4/

In case I ever want to buy a few to upgrade. The LS800x4 is especially a good deal I just wish they'd list RMS instead of peak. I even emailed them about it and the owner got back to me stating it was for marketing because it's a budget product

Rms is 90x4 at 2ohms.  It's in the downloadable manual.  No 4 ohm rating tho

 

[phantom240 5,000+ posts]

Rms is 90x4 at 2ohms.  It's in the downloadable manual.  No 4 ohm rating tho

So it would be safe to assume 50-70w at 4 then, I would imagine. Kinda dinky. 

 

[kcr357 10+ year member]

The mmats?  Yeah, dont bother.  That 900.4 makes insane power.  If you can f ind a deal on a ppi bk520.4, those are powerful and sound amazing being class ab.  The ppi bk800.4 would shred too

 

[phantom240 5,000+ posts]

The mmats?  Yeah, dont bother.  That 900.4 makes insane power.  If you can f ind a deal on a ppi bk520.4, those are powerful and sound amazing being class ab.  The ppi bk800.4 would shred too

Yeah, not in the market for another highs amp. Now, a Sundown 1500 or suitable equivalent, I need. I've got enough highs amps laying around than I know what to do with. At least six, including the one in my truck, ranging from the diminutive  Eclipse EA1412 to the monsterous P900.4

 

[kcr357 10+ year member]

Just saw the zapco is 640 watts.  If thats rms and you want more volume, listen to jeff.  Seems like there'a setup issue or your eardrum are giving up the ghost.  I had a 900.4 on 4x infinity reference 6.5s, couldnt really say it wasnt loud enough.   If it's not setup related, time for a revamp.  Or hearing aid.

 

[phantom240 5,000+ posts]

What can I say, I like my music loud. I did quite well on my hearing exam when I had my physical for work a year ago, for what it's worth. I'm mostly having issues with certain types of sounds coming through well. Instrumental tracks and EDM seem to be pretty safe, aside from tracks that make heavy use of square wave synths (damn you, chiptunes) and the occasional sawtooth. However, tracks that have alto to tenor vocals (low female, high male) tend to distort in that vocal range prematurely. So I'm almost certain that I need to reset my EQ so as not to overdrive those frequencies, and look into components that can more efficiently reproduce that range. Soprano ranges come through just fine. So I'd imagine in the range of 400-1000hz is where my setup is lacking efficiency. 

 

[phantom240 5,000+ posts]

For instance, most of the higher vocals in this track come through beautifully, with authority and clarity. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNa6dshsRO0

However, lower ranges like altos and tenors like Alina Baraz tend to get flattened out and audibly clipping prematurely

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa2RIlsbOvA

So it really seems like my setup needs improvement in the midbass/midrange area.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Here is another suggestion for a 4 ch amp..   https://www.wolframaudio.com/collections/amplifiers/products/w-125-4

Mine is the W series, Korean board. The other 4 ch amp they have is the C series, Chinese board. What's the difference besides price? Korean boards tend to take the abuse moreso than Chinese boards. This is the same for much bigger mono amps.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

The mmats?  Yeah, dont bother.  That 900.4 makes insane power.  If you can f ind a deal on a ppi bk520.4, those are powerful and sound amazing being class ab.  The ppi bk800.4 would shred too

It's not a matter of power, if I were to  grab the MMats I'd be grabbing 4 of them and bridging them all. Guarantee it'd sound better than 2 ppi 900.4's

 

[phantom240 5,000+ posts]

Alright, alright, amp discussions aside, are there any component recommendations under $300 that would be an improvement in the sub 2000hz range over the JBL P660C set that's in my doors?

 

[DRBOOM]

Hey mate, if you are after more volume in your ride then go audition a few components with high sensitivity so they will be more efficient and will get loud without you turning up the knob too high.  I would recommend JL Audio or Kicker even Pioneer are better contenders. It also depends on what brands your local car audio shop has.  You can go Focals but I have found the European brands tend to have a flatter sound for my liking. Hertz components are another contender so is Audison and Morel speakers.   Best to go listen to some and then you can haggle the salesperson to give you a good deal.

Later mate!

 

[phantom240 5,000+ posts]

Hey mate, if you are after more volume in your ride then go audition a few components with high sensitivity so they will be more efficient and will get loud without you turning up the knob too high.  I would recommend JL Audio or Kicker even Pioneer are better contenders. It also depends on what brands your local car audio shop has.  You can go Focals but I have found the European brands tend to have a flatter sound for my liking. Hertz components are another contender so is Audison and Morel speakers.   Best to go listen to some and then you can haggle the salesperson to give you a good deal.

Later mate!

View attachment 4208

Might look into some Hertz or Morel. I don't suppose Cadence is worth looking at? JL is good, but can't justify their cost. Unfortunately there's no audio shops in my vicinity that have actually decent components on their boards and cater mostly to the low tier crowd with crap like Planet Audio, Crunch, Boss. 

For what it's worth, my current front stage has a 94dB sensitivity, which I find suspect, since most components in the 100w rms range tend to be between 89-91dB. 

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Alright, alright, amp discussions aside, are there any component recommendations under $300 that would be an improvement in the sub 2000hz range over the JBL P660C set that's in my doors?

the first thing you want to do is say fk off to the components idea and get rid of the kenwood head unit.    You want to use raw drivers with no passive crossovers, all crossovers are done on the 80 prs head unit.    The signal will be split into high, mid and low which means tweeters, midbass and subwoofer.

some loud cheap tweeters,   https://www.amazon.com/Massive-Audio-CT2II-Tweeter-Crossovers/dp/B00NBC25UM 
some decent mids https://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/crescendo-un-65-6-5-pro-audio-speaker.html

You'll need to use your ppi 900.4 and your current zapco for this because those UNs love power, they just sound better and better with more power. you will either bridge the ppi or the zapco to 2 channel stereo to the crescendo UNS yes they will eat up all the power and more without issues, just raise the HPF depending on how loud you want it. Now with the remaining amp, you'll want to power the tweeter and the rear speakers.   Your midrange RCA on the head unit RCAs will be split with an rca splitter to get signal to the rear.  I'd generally recommend losing the rear speakers completely or leave them on head unit power but i understand its a big car and passengers might want something back there.

Start off with the head unit in network mode and try a 4000 hz at 12 db crossover point for both mid low pass and tweeter high pass and tune around.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Might look into some Hertz or Morel. I don't suppose Cadence is worth looking at? JL is good, but can't justify their cost. Unfortunately there's no audio shops in my vicinity that have actually decent components on their boards and cater mostly to the low tier crowd with crap like Planet Audio, Crunch, Boss. 

For what it's worth, my current front stage has a 94dB sensitivity, which I find suspect, since most components in the 100w rms range tend to be between 89-91dB. 

your tweeter is 94 db, not the midrange, the midrange on the p660c is more around 89 db sensitivity.   If you like the tweeters, you can follow the blueprint i listed up there, but dont buy the tweeters, just use the p660C tweeters and get rid of the passive crossover and mid and replace it with the UN6.5 and run everything active.