I need guidance on wiring my PPI 900.4

[Gnfanatic1]

Hello everyone, I have been out of the car audio scene for a longtime and I am hoping you guys can give me some guidance. I have a brand new PPI 900.4 that I would like to power a set of front components and a sub. The amp is bridgeable but can I bridge the rear channels for the sub and leave the front channels for the components?? Is this possible?? It would be nice to use this amp and save money , it would be great if I can bridge and have it at 2 ohm load for the 10in sub.

I appreciate the help,

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

https://precisionpower.com/html-version/manuals/PPI-Phantom-Amps.PDF
You can run the amplifier in 3 channel mode with channels 1 &2 down to 2 ohm stereo and bridge channels 3&4 in mono mode for a final load of 4 ohms only for substage. Wire your sub to a 4 ohm load. It is not 2 ohm stable by specs bridged mono, only 4 ohms.

 

[Gnfanatic1]

Thanks for the quick reply and link. I keep going back and forth on what to do with the speaker setup. I listen to classic rock mostly and looking for clean sound and a decent punch in my 2002 camry. The Camry has 6x9 in the doors and rear deck and I noticed CDT makes some very nice 6x9 components and 6x9 (subs). This will make a much cleaner install and I wont have a box in my trunk.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the quick reply and link. I keep going back and forth on what to do with the speaker setup. I listen to classic rock mostly and looking for clean sound and a decent punch in my 2002 camry. The Camry has 6x9 in the doors and rear deck and I noticed CDT makes some very nice 6x9 components and 6x9 (subs). This will make a much cleaner install and I wont have a box in my trunk.

I run CDT speakers and can Vouch for reliability and performance. Great speakers for sure. Those 6x9 subs will not give you much of a sub stage that you will get from a ported enclosure in the trunk. You can remove the 6x9s in the rear deck a keep the empty cavity for better bass notes to enter the cabin. you can always put a pair of 5.25 coax. in the rear doors with bass blockers on the Poss+ wiring and run those off HU power for rear passengers and even a bit of real fill.Amplify your front stage and sub stage.Even a pair of 4" coax would be plenty enough for a rear passenger. Wouldnt take much

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the quick reply and link. I keep going back and forth on what to do with the speaker setup. I listen to classic rock mostly and looking for clean sound and a decent punch in my 2002 camry. The Camry has 6x9 in the doors and rear deck and I noticed CDT makes some very nice 6x9 components and 6x9 (subs). This will make a much cleaner install and I wont have a box in my trunk.

You can get some ABS sheets and put in place and cut out for a nice set of 6.5 components to give you more options as well.While you have the front door panels off. that would be a good time to do some door treatments which will cut down on some road noise and make those front speakers perform , and sound so much better.

 

[Gnfanatic1]

I dont want to run anything in rear doors, I am just trying to figure out a few things...

1-) Is it worth converting the front door 6x9 to 6.5..
2-) Either I do something in the rear deck for decent bass or I got a 10in sub in a sealed box that nice and small in trunk.

thanks man

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I have 2 PPI Phantom 1000.1 d , 1- 900.4 and a 600.2. I ran all of these in one setting and had great results with the amplifiers.I still have them. Ill run one of the 1000.1 d for temp setups quite a bit. great amps. Not sure why they stopped making them.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I dont want to run anything in rear doors, I am just trying to figure out a few things...

1-) Is it worth converting the front door 6x9 to 6.5..
2-) Either I do something in the rear deck for decent bass or I got a 10in sub in a sealed box that nice and small in trunk.

thanks man

Its worth it. Give you more options for purchases and better SQ or even Loud clean front stage speaker choices. ABS sheets are easy to install and work well and easy to cut out for modification, without doing any Metal door cutting and you can place the existing 6x9 speakers back in later on if selling the vehicle and keeping your good speakers.Not a whole lot of really good choices for 6x9s compared to 6.5 components. you can get a decent ported enclosure of approx 1.2-1.6 for a nice ten to do work. Ported is the way to go in trunk space.Sub rear port rear yeilds better results

 

[Gnfanatic1]

Thanks guys, awesome info. Does look like I can afford CDT 6.5 components though unless I am looking at the wrong stuff on their site. I know there are million different ways and tastes but if this is your car and you had $500 to spend on front components and a sub (10" will be fine) what would you get? I THINK with the rear channels bridged at 4 ohms I will have 425 watts for the sub?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

You can also cut down on an enclosure size if wanting to save space by using an Aero-ported enclosure as well. Just an FYI

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Thanks guys, awesome info. Does look like I can afford CDT 6.5 components though unless I am looking at the wrong stuff on their site. I know there are million different ways and tastes but if this is your car and you had $500 to spend on front components and a sub (10" will be fine) what would you get? I THINK with the rear channels bridged at 4 ohms I will have 425 watts for the sub?

I would run this sub for the money wired to 4 ohms on the amp. Later if you decide to want a little more out of it... you can purchase a dedicated 1 ohm stable amplifier for it
https://soundqubed.com/product/hds2-2-series-600w-subwoofer/
I like the HD series CDT speakers. These do really nice up front
https://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-sp...170w-rms-2-way-component-speakers-system.html

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Get a ported enclosure for the sub.. 1.6 at approx 32-34Htz would be ideal. You can make your own with some minor tools and patience with a set of enclosure plans also that you can find
https://gpcaraudio.com/10-single-high-output-glue-it-screw-it-sub-enclosure/
I have a dual ported enclosure for a pair of XFL 12s that I got from these guys, and have been happy with it.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I would run this sub for the money wired to 4 ohms on the amp. Later if you decide to want a little more out of it... you can purchase a dedicated 1 ohm stable amplifier for it
https://soundqubed.com/product/hds2-2-series-600w-subwoofer/
I like the HD series CDT speakers. These do really nice up front
https://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-sp...170w-rms-2-way-component-speakers-system.html

You may be able to locate these speakers /CDT speakers for a much less price elswhere.. I really like the Polk MM 6.5 components too.Infinity Kappa do really nice and Image Dynamics. Experience with all and Like the Polks. the CDTs I usually run keep up with my heavy sub stage and take more power than the others mentioned
https://www.polkaudio.com/en-us/product/mm1-series/mm6502
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZG8BFT/?tag=caraudiocom-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NNOZNQ/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Those would be my choices until had funds for a dedicated Sub amp. Id look at a CT Sounds CT 1000.1, even the 700.1 will be just fine. Great amps. Enjoying the 2k thus far. Awaiting for the 150.4 to show.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Others may Chime in with Recommendations also.
When you mount that amp or any amplifier.. I recommend to elevate it approx 1/2" off the surface to get some air underneath it and keep the heat temps down. Help make them run cooler and last longer.. couple washers (4-5) seem to work just fine