How to get better lows?

Dude, you could easily put the amp in either trunk.
Fair point. Must admit though I hate how most head units look, especially when I just be using my phone in a holder anyway. It's a double DIN, and I've got a single drawer and a cover in there to hide the amp, and a phone holder. I like how minimal it looks, but maybe a head unit is needed...

Still, the issue is response, not volume. The sub is loud enough, but it's very peaky around the 100 hz range (yeah I checked with a sine sweep). My cheap Z2300's are way louder at 40hz. The door speakers don't do much below 120 hz, so if I adjusted the sub crossover to say 80hz or lower, I'd have a big hole //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Does the driver itself make much of a difference? Should I look for a lower rated 10 inch designed for a smaller enclosure? It seems that the bigger rated the speaker, the bigger the box needs to be for the same frequency?

 
Thanks for the response all.
First of all, I'm definitely NOT an audiophile, but I appreciate "reasonable" audio. Unfortunately using a bigger box is out of the question, and I certainly can't use the boot (there's an engine in the way :p).
you can absolutely use the "boot", either of em for that matter. Get some conduit and run it as far away from the hot parts as you can, then use P clips and self tapping sheetmetal screws to secure it to the internal bodywork. Conduit supplies even have threaded connectors thatll allow a 100% waterproof seal.

 
Fair point. Must admit though I hate how most head units look, especially when I just be using my phone in a holder anyway. It's a double DIN, and I've got a single drawer and a cover in there to hide the amp, and a phone holder. I like how minimal it looks, but maybe a head unit is needed...
Still, the issue is response, not volume. The sub is loud enough, but it's very peaky around the 100 hz range (yeah I checked with a sine sweep). My cheap Z2300's are way louder at 40hz. The door speakers don't do much below 120 hz, so if I adjusted the sub crossover to say 80hz or lower, I'd have a big hole //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Does the driver itself make much of a difference? Should I look for a lower rated 10 inch designed for a smaller enclosure? It seems that the bigger rated the speaker, the bigger the box needs to be for the same frequency?
your issue is the fact that the mdf that the box is made of is taking up too much space in your given area. Fiberglassing a box thats ported that takes up the entire space available to get the displacement you need behind one seat is going to be your best option to get the low end you seek. Tiny sealed boxes play tight and snappy. Bigger ported boxes will play much lower even with the same woofer.

I posed this query before, but didnt see your response. How married the the storage bin over your left shoulder?

 
your issue is the fact that the mdf that the box is made of is taking up too much space in your given area. Fiberglassing a box thats ported that takes up the entire space available to get the displacement you need behind one seat is going to be your best option to get the low end you seek. Tiny sealed boxes play tight and snappy. Bigger ported boxes will play much lower even with the same woofer.
I posed this query before, but didnt see your response. How married the the storage bin over your left shoulder?
Yeah that would open up some awesome possibilities, but it would be way more work than I'm currently willing to do. It's certainly something to think about down the line if I get more time / money.

 
Yeah that would open up some awesome possibilities, but it would be way more work than I'm currently willing to do. It's certainly something to think about down the line if I get more time / money.
i hear ya, but it would yield the best results. I knew a guy who had an '89 MR-2 and he just did 2 SAS bazooka tubes in it and it RIPPED!

what about a https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017JHUG0/ref=psdc_172568_t1_B0017JG47G?th=1 coupled with one of these https://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-BT8024DVC-8-Inch-4-Ohm-Passive/dp/B0007WQ7KI/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497636830&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=8%22+bazooka+slave

 
Im not going to argue with you. Compression over wireless has an effect on highs and lows. There is data to back it up. Im just not going to start citing just to be right. Hes not paying for hi-res and he wont be, thus i didnt mention it.
Lets not do the usual CA thing and start argueing

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
Yea. I know better to listen to tat clown. I proved beyond a doubt i could hear the difference between 320 and 1000kbps. Not only does it affect bandwidth it has more noise..

 
how about the tubes? those things can do some decent damage in such small cabin area
Hmmm, I don't think they'd fit. The existing box only just allows enough room - there's less than an inch between the speaker and the back of the seat. I think a custom fibreglass solution would be the only real option.

 
Thanks for the response all.
First of all, I'm definitely NOT an audiophile, but I appreciate "reasonable" audio. Unfortunately using a bigger box is out of the question, and I certainly can't use the boot (there's an engine in the way :p). The only place it can go is direct behind the drivers seat, and that custom made box is as big as can be - yes it's 0.75 ft3.

I normally use spotify yes, and I pay for it so 320kbs is plenty good enough for me (I tested cd ripping a few years ago and couldn't tell any difference above 192kbs).

At home I just use basic Logitech Z2300's, which I'm happy enough with. The sub with those is barely 0.5 ft3 (ported, 8 inch), and I get much lower bass even on those.

As for using my phone, again, I'm not an audiophile and to me I can't tell any difference between my phone and my PC when outputting audio to my Z2300's, so I don't really think it's too much of a limiting factor although I realise a head unit would be better. Currently I've got the amp hidden in the dash (space is minimal with this car), so no room for one.

I've got the two door speakers going to ch's 1 & 2, and the sub to 3 (bridged, so in theory it will get up to 100w rms, so similar to my Z2300's).
only way we are gonna make porting this work is if you get a 6.5 inch to 8 inch subwoofer and make a new baffle for the box. Your logitech is an 8 inch low powered sub. The whole enclosure design is what determines how loud and overall good sounding you get. If you dont understand this, you'll always have junk bass.

Another thing that is completely limiting you is NO HEAD UNIT. You need to run proper RCA cables and have a proper sub out. Why? Right now, your phone has a VERY weak signal strength with a head unit, you can actually have proper audio convertors that put out a strong audio signal which overall makes your music sound better, louder and fuller, makes a whole concert stage feel. You are getting half @ssed sound with only half an RCA plugged in for whatever you are doing right now. Its not wheter you are an audiophile or not, you need to respect yourself and get something somewhat listenable and enjoyable. We are FARRR away from any audiophile level in this setup however with a head unit, you can have a nice decent daily above average joe setup that you will enjoy and will not hesitate to show off to friends. ALL things start with a head unit. Without it, kiss any resemblance of a decent sounding system goodbye. You will hear it from anyone that knows anything about audio. We cant stress the importance of a good head unit.

Why do we suggest a head unit? Because your exact issues you stated in your intro post and a preamp is a horrible way to do it.

 
your biggest problem is u don't have the room man.. how much power do u have going to the sub? if u want loud from small box u need power but never gonna be deep in a small box, u lucky if it plays to 55hz..

 
Hmmm, I don't think they'd fit. The existing box only just allows enough room - there's less than an inch between the speaker and the back of the seat. I think a custom fibreglass solution would be the only real option.
your biggest problem is u don't have the room man.. how much power do u have going to the sub? if u want loud from small box u need power but never gonna be deep in a small box, u lucky if it plays to 55hz..
actually, a good friend of mine in high school had a pair of SAS bazooka tubes in his 1988 supercharged MR-2, and i fit in that car just fine (im 6'4", and was the same height then) and hes no shorter than 6'2". Not sure about the space difference between the body style change, nor am i certain if he had the 6.5"s or 8"s, but i could ask. I know that i laid eyes on them hundreds of times because i couldnt believe that the sound i was hearing was from those "measly tube subs". He has one amplified and one slave, and it souded MASSIVE in that tiny cabin space!! Wonderful lows and snappy s#it too. We listened to predominantly metal at the time (early 90s), but you have to remember that Tool was out at that time too, and their experimental style introduced some great lows too. Another +1 for the tube is a buddy who has an 86 IROC-Z with a 10" slave tube running off a sony amp that uses the wedge shape of the car to make the most of its limited output, but sounds deceivingly like its more than it is, plays low and gives a satisfying grunt for most everything you throw at it.

 
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