How much would this custom enclosure cost from a shop by you? (pics)

Though it technically is a second hand box, it's not really second hand in that I just want to get rid of it and move on. It's only a couple months old and when my buddy listened to it he said he wanted to buy it, but I'm debating because I love the box and I put so much effort into making it not too long ago. I'm thinking it may be a good time for me to start experimenting with fiberglass though so we'll see. And no matter who a box's owner was intended to be when it was built, it is still a "custom" box when made for the specific speaker and application, though this is just semantics. If you'll sell me a killer box of this caliber for $100, let me know when you have any and I'll most likely take them off your hand real quick. EDIT- Just saw that you're in Australia.

And about the nailer, a couple nails did get a little squirrely on me (maybe 4 or 5 on the whole box), but when it happened I noticed it and secured it with another nail that actually went in. This was my first box that I've made with the nailer, but I have to say I'm very impressed and will be making all of my future boxes with the nailer if it's available. It definitely feels every bit as solid as my previous boxes with screws. Like NeverEnuff said, the nails and screws are to simply hold the box tight while the glue dries. If your box wasn't tight when you used nails, use glue as well next time (if you didn't the first time), or work on your clamping. I was under the impression that the majority of the box makers here, who do a decent amount of volume, use a brad nailer. And that nailing arm to the wall analogy doesn't really apply here because if the nail had, say a 2" head on it (or conversely if your arm had the density of wood) and you shot it through your arm into the wall, your arm would indeed be nailed to the wall;)

As for the swappable port system, this isn't the first box I've made with it, and in every case it's worked pretty well (for it's intended application, which is most definitely not for the balls out pure spl competitor, rather the guy who wants to have a good daily box but have a little edge when going out to local competitions). More than just the tuning is changed with the ports on this box though. If you look at the 2nd 3rd pic you'll see the daily port, and the SPL port is in the 4th pic. I don't remember exactly, but the SPL port has like twice the port area and is obviously tuned higher so it increased the internal area by a good amount as well. With this being said though, I didn't have much time to experiment with boxes and the new car before I had to build it and I definitely feel that my SPL results would have been a little bit better if I would've made it with a little less internal volume and a little less port area (I know this goes against conventional thinking, but with this same speaker I previously had much better results this way.)

 
The purpose of using a brad nailer is to hold the wood together until the glue dries. I hope you used wood glue on the tester boxes. If they were comming apart, you didn't use enough glue.
still used glue of coure. but it just doesnt hold the pieces of wood tight together while drying

 
still used glue of coure. but it just doesnt hold the pieces of wood tight together while drying
...Yeah, they do. Metal fasteners, whether screws or nails, are actually the weakpoints of the enclosure. This is because they stress the wood in those spots because you're inserting something thick into the solid substance. Even when you pre-drill, if you're too close to the edge, you can still split the wood. I say metal fasteners only because dowels and biscuits are actually stronger, because they are made of wood also and can expand and take the bond further into the wood instead of just making a hole and shoving a piece of metal into it.
 
Ive done my last two enclosures with a brad nailer.. one of them was over 10 cubes vented with 2 18"s.. and it was much easier to use, and it appears to be more solid as well (no way to actually measure it..

just clamp it down as you are nailing it together to get the seals tight then nail away.. I will always use a brad nailer from now on

 
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