How many people use their stock car speakers wires to run the front speakers?

unless you are running alot of power it has no noticeable negative effect at all. it has been done for years and years by alot of shops. I try to avoid it on a customers car but i usually do it on my own. simple , fast and easy. I use T-tap 3M connectors for it and leave the stock connector as well.

 
I plan to tap into the back of the head unit. I will connect the wires to the head unit side of the harness, that way I can preserve the connector from the OEM connector.

Thanks for all of the input. I don't think I'll notice the sound difference using the stock and the new wire. If I got more time later, I can always run the cables. I got 14 gauge, oxygen free cables ready to go. What is the different between oxygen free and the stock cables? Are the stock oxygen free too for it to last this 19 years in my 1990 accord? What does the oxygen free does for the cable benefits?

Thanks,

 
unless you are running alot of power it has no noticeable negative effect at all. it has been done for years and years by alot of shops. I try to avoid it on a customers car but i usually do it on my own. simple , fast and easy. I use T-tap 3M connectors for it and leave the stock connector as well.
That is exactly how mine is. I couldn't think of the name of those clips, but that is what I use .......the T-Tap 3m connectors and leave the stock one in case I take them back out, which I always do after awhile, lol!

Anthing under 100rms should be fine.....anything over, I would run bigger wire through the molex plug or however your door is setup. Can and usually is a bish and time consuming.

 
I am not worrying about time but I cannot get it through that wire harness boot in the door. I am thinking of cutting a hole in the boot and push the wire through the door then seal it with electrical tape.

 
I am not worrying about time but I cannot get it through that wire harness boot in the door. I am thinking of cutting a hole in the boot and push the wire through the door then seal it with electrical tape.
Dummy....

Just crimp new wire onto the old behind the deck, then pull out the door, until new wire is exposed? OMFG so simple for an old man like me. You young guys need to get up off your ***** and do something right.

 
Dummy....
Just crimp new wire onto the old behind the deck, then pull out the door, until new wire is exposed? OMFG so simple for an old man like me. You young guys need to get up off your ***** and do something right.
You must be having a bad day. I don't know how old you really are but it's never wise to call some one you don't know a dummy and lazy *****. I have done many wire through the front doors before but my car is a bit different than other ones that I have done. My friend who is a car audio expert and certified, he looked at my door and even he suggested solutions that are not different than what I have found. You should think before you type such insults, not all young guys are lazy, I have staffs that I manage and it's the older ones that won't move fast enough and we consider them lazy b/c they tell their old stories all day and never physically productive. If you cannot contribute in a nice manners, please refrain from insulting others.

The reason I posted this thread b/c I wanted to collect other ideas maybe better than what I have already. I wanted to leave the stock cables as they are in case I want to sell the car in the near future. I also did not want the wire to be exposed.

I will forgive you this time b/c you are having a bad day. Don't post unless you can be more gentle in your wordings.

Thanks,

 
speed wire ftw.

i don't think that was the actual products name but we used it for 4channel amp installs.

it was 4 speaker wires color coded + 1 remote wire all bundled up together, makes for a nice clean quick install. no bench prepping the remote wire to the rca's or preping 4 runs for speaker wire from HU to Amp. that's if your going the cheap way and not going to each speaker directly.

 
speed wire ftw.i don't think that was the actual products name but we used it for 4channel amp installs.

it was 4 speaker wires color coded + 1 remote wire all bundled up together, makes for a nice clean quick install. no bench prepping the remote wire to the rca's or preping 4 runs for speaker wire from HU to Amp. that's if your going the cheap way and not going to each speaker directly.
have no idea what that is but I can do something with the harness that takes 5 mins and very little wire.

on the harness (aftermarket) connect the left front and rear pos, than the left front and rear neg. same thing to the other side. unplug the rear deck speakers and that is your lead to the fronts (connect to amp), than run new wires from the rear deck speakers to the amp. install complete.

 
have no idea what that is but I can do something with the harness that takes 5 mins and very little wire.
on the harness (aftermarket) connect the left front and rear pos, than the left front and rear neg. same thing to the other side. unplug the rear deck speakers and that is your lead to the fronts (connect to amp), than run new wires from the rear deck speakers to the amp. install complete.
... how is this differn't? run the speedwires (all four speaker wire pairs + remote) from HU -> AMP ... looks clean and takes no prep for the wires.

infact imo it's easier / quicker my way because you're not taking extra time seperately hooking up the rears.

 
... how is this differn't? run the speedwires (all four speaker wire pairs + remote) from HU -> AMP ... looks clean and takes no prep for the wires.
infact imo it's easier / quicker my way because you're not taking extra time seperately hooking up the rears.
i don't know if you're running speaker wires with yours or not? with mine you only run amp kit wires, no speaker wires. mine looks clean as well. I'm sure both mine and yours are very time efficient. to you, your way is easire, to me my way is easier. I did state that I didn't know what yours was. I am sure that both of our ways work well.

 
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