How loud is your system?

Deon1818

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MN
I want to know if anyone has spl numbers for lower built/musical systems. I can find people's competion numbers but I want to know what people are hitting at 25 - 35 hz, not 50 hz
I guess I want to know if my system is in the right place for the equipment I have or if i need to build a new box.

I have a 2007 envoy with
Four 15" Fi Btl 4's
Two crescendo Bassclef 6k's
Four XS power d3400's
Second skin on rear sides and entire ceiling
Fancy kenwood Touchscreen headunit ( don't remember the model but it was like $500 or so)
Singer alternator 390 Amp
Stock electrical is still in place and on a seperate circuit. XS battery bank has two runs of 0 tinned OFC power and ground running straight to the singer alt.

I'm not trying to compete or burp 50 hz. I just want to know If i'm in the ballpark of how loud it should be on more musical notes.
With an SPl lab mini bass meter v2 i got measurement from the passenger side dash, stuck to the lowest part of the glass. All readings are with doors and windows shut

137.5 db at 20 Hz
145.9 db at 25 hz
148.8 at 30 hz
148.1 at 35 hz
150.1 at 40 hz
150.5 at 45 hz
40 hz and up hurts my ears I just wish it had a bit more wind tunnel effect.

UPDATE
New @Buck Box
142.4 at 20 hz
150.1 at 25 hz
150.3 at 30 hz
148.8 at 35 hz
149.9 at 40 hz
150.2 at 45 hz

I gained a very noticeable amount of volume 30 hz and down, the new box has helped greatly.
This is just a box exchange and I haven't moved around the meter to find my absolute best score.
I still want to upgrade my electrical and continue bracing the vehicle but a new box proved to make a big difference where i wanted it to.
 

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Those numbers are definitely in the ballpark of where you should be with the mic on the windshield.

Thanks for the response @dragon.breath , I know there is always room for improvement I just haven't heard any other systems similar to mine to compare to and I did everything myself. Youtube flex videos and comp numbers at various frequencies are hard to compare to.
 
You numbers look good. These are mine. I metered with the door open and the meter in the passenger kick.

I got the Term Lab out tonight and finally did some testing at different frequencies just for fun and to find my peak. I came close but just couldn't break 149. I'm pretty happy with the scores. 4-8's on a SIA3500. Here are the results. So, I guess my peak is 31 hz. 2005 Didge Standard cab.
131 @ 20 hz.
143.3 @ 25 hz.
147.4 @ 28 hz.
148.6 @ 30 hz.
148.9 @ 31 hz.
148.8 @ 32hz.

20211116_224917.jpg
 
You numbers look good. These are mine. I metered with the door open and the meter in the passenger kick.

I got the Term Lab out tonight and finally did some testing at different frequencies just for fun and to find my peak. I came close but just couldn't break 149. I'm pretty happy with the scores. 4-8's on a SIA3500. Here are the results. So, I guess my peak is 31 hz. 2005 Didge Standard cab.
131 @ 20 hz.
143.3 @ 25 hz.
147.4 @ 28 hz.
148.6 @ 30 hz.
148.9 @ 31 hz.
148.8 @ 32hz.
Very nice! My numbers go up by about 2 Db when i opened the drivers door. it was 152.5 at 40 hz and 152.1 at 35 hz

Those numbers are crazy for 4 8's with less than 4k watts. I wonder what the difference would be for me to move the meter to the kick plate.
I've always been curious how much louder it would be with my subs closer to the front or walled.

Love to see 8's playing loww
 
Not being a dick but a 150 on 4 15s on 12k is pretty low.

No offense taken @Popwarhomie , that's why I'm here. Box design would be my number 1 variable correct? Maybe I should look for a professional to design something.
I mean my voltage does sink into low 12's on full tilt at idle but my only other option to add electrical would be to add another singer alternator for $1k and combine the electrical circuits. I like them seperate so i dont have any light dimming and can play with vehicle off with less concern.

Also. I have the amps connected for a master slave connection and have heard gain matching is the way to go. After hours of research and trial and error I gave up and went back to how i had it. I think the wiring was incorrect.

What numbers should i be seeing and what would your first change be?
 
No offense taken @Popwarhomie , that's why I'm here. Box design would be my number 1 variable correct? Maybe I should look for a professional to design something.
I mean my voltage does sink into low 12's on full tilt at idle but my only other option to add electrical would be to add another singer alternator for $1k and combine the electrical circuits. I like them seperate so i dont have any light dimming and can play with vehicle off with less concern.

Also. I have the amps connected for a master slave connection and have heard gain matching is the way to go. After hours of research and trial and error I gave up and went back to how i had it. I think the wiring was incorrect.

What numbers should i be seeing and what would your first change be?


I would expect around a 155ish. I would talk to @Buck and see if he sees any issues with your current box.

I personally would get rid of all that AGM and go LTO lithium. Save weight on top of better electrical.

I always ran master/slave as well until I watched Barevids video on Youtube about gain matching.
 
I would expect around a 155ish. I would talk to @Buck and see if he sees any issues with your current box.

I personally would get rid of all that AGM and go LTO lithium. Save weight on top of better electrical.

I always ran master/slave as well until I watched Barevids video on Youtube about gain matching.


I guess I'm not really worried about weight but I'll look into Lithium if it's that much better. I'll get all my measurements and specs of my box tonight and hit up buck in the morning. I mean I hit 152s with the door open but I am interested in a new box design if it'll make it windy in there.

Did you find a noticeable difference switching from master slave to gain matched?
 
No offense taken @Popwarhomie , that's why I'm here. Box design would be my number 1 variable correct? Maybe I should look for a professional to design something.
I mean my voltage does sink into low 12's on full tilt at idle but my only other option to add electrical would be to add another singer alternator for $1k and combine the electrical circuits. I like them seperate so i dont have any light dimming and can play with vehicle off with less concern.

Also. I have the amps connected for a master slave connection and have heard gain matching is the way to go. After hours of research and trial and error I gave up and went back to how i had it. I think the wiring was incorrect.

What numbers should i be seeing and what would your first change be?

I would expect around a 155ish. I would talk to @Buck and see if he sees any issues with your current box.

I personally would get rid of all that AGM and go LTO lithium. Save weight on top of better electrical.

I always ran master/slave as well until I watched Barevids video on Youtube about gain matching.


Deon is going to be losing a lot to vehicle flex. Your score would probably go up with a well built wall. I agree that could be way higher in score.

I'm not sure if I'm seeing this correctly, but your bottom port could be oversized; it looks fairly large. I'm not sure, it depends on the volume of the box. Anyways, if you want a wind tunnel, you need to tune lower with a proper amount of box volume and port area. Those subs should get really nasty on lows in the right box. I was doing 149.3 peak @ 35 hz on 2 18's and 2400 rated watts tuned lower than you. I did have wood in half of my roof. If you don't want to do a wall, I would say do a new box to get closer to the sound you want.
 
149.3 is my best with the Ex in my signature. That was playing music on the same meter you used, sealed on the dash. I haven't really tested since i finished my new box though.
20210802_202956.jpg
 
Deon is going to be losing a lot to vehicle flex. Your score would probably go up with a well built wall. I agree that could be way higher in score.

I'm not sure if I'm seeing this correctly, but your bottom port could be oversized; it looks fairly large. I'm not sure, it depends on the volume of the box. Anyways, if you want a wind tunnel, you need to tune lower with a proper amount of box volume and port area. Those subs should get really nasty on lows in the right box. I was doing 149.3 peak @ 35 hz on 2 18's and 2400 rated watts tuned lower than you. I did have wood in half of my roof. If you don't want to do a wall, I would say do a new box to get closer to the sound you want.

Okay so I just measured the box.
Outside dimensions
45" wide 22.25" tall (including triple baffle) 50 inches deep
Port is 43.5 x 6.75
I built this box in February of 2019 and don't remember the port length but it has 3 corners. Perhaps around 25 to 27 inches?
My subs are currently inverted so no sub displacement but I miss being able to see out my rear glass. So a wall is not really ideal.
Ps @Buck I'm a big fan of your work.
 
Also this is a look when the rear hatch is closed. It's about the same distance as the height of my port. But I worry it's messing with my airflow.
 

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Very nice! My numbers go up by about 2 Db when i opened the drivers door. it was 152.5 at 40 hz and 152.1 at 35 hz

Those numbers are crazy for 4 8's with less than 4k watts. I wonder what the difference would be for me to move the meter to the kick plate.
I've always been curious how much louder it would be with my subs closer to the front or walled.

Love to see 8's playing loww

You have me by quite a bit on cone area and power. The only thing that help me is that I'm in a standard cab truck.
 
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