How does this work?

The only reason why I put a higher amperage fuse in is because I went BACK DOWN to a 4 ohm load. It was fine for the time that the fuse was in there. I was pulling no more than 60amps. It was a temp solution to put in the 100 amp, now it's back down to an 80 amp. I could even use a 60amp, but I'm still with an 80amp, is that pushing it too far also?
But i thought it was 1 ohm stable //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
But i thought it was 1 ohm stable //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif It is 1 ohm stable, but when I pop a 80 amp fuse with a 1ohm load, why would I want to try and put a 1ohm load and 100 amp fuse together and burn my **** car up?

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif It is 1 ohm stable, but when I pop a 80 amp fuse with a 1ohm load, why would I want to try and put a 1ohm load and 100 amp fuse together and burn my **** car up?
Assuming this is the amp in your sig... what makes you think it's 1ohm stable?

Its not

 
Well, with 2 dual 4 subs hooked up parallel I would assume the presents a 1ohm load. Stop tryin' to flame on me because I used an unorthodox solution, like most of you wouldn't have... Yes, I know a lot of you would say you wouldn't do such a thing, but don't try and lie.

 
Well, with 2 dual 4 subs hooked up parallel I would assume the presents a 1ohm load. Stop tryin' to flame on me because I used an unorthodox solution, like most of you wouldn't have... Yes, I know a lot of you would say you wouldn't do such a thing, but don't try and lie.
hahahahahah wow..... just wow //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif :laugh: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif :laugh: //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif Just because u can wire ur sub woofers to 1 ohm, u assume the amp can therefore handle a 1 ohm load?

All i gotta say is Bravo.

 
Well, with 2 dual 4 subs hooked up parallel I would assume the presents a 1ohm load. Stop tryin' to flame on me because I used an unorthodox solution, like most of you wouldn't have... Yes, I know a lot of you would say you wouldn't do such a thing, but don't try and lie.
Yes, that presents a 1 ohm load. That doesn't mean that your amp can handle that load. Your amp can't. It's not "stable" at 1 ohm, "stable" being the key word. Doing the simple math, you're asking your amp to push over 1500 watts. The amount of current needed to do this on an unstable platform like you're creating is immense.

Keep your subs wired at 4 ohms, or get a new amp. You haven't found a solution, you've created a problem. It's okay to think outside of the box, but what you're trying to accomplish and what you've done is create a very dangerous, and potentially very costly scenario. Be thankful your amp is built as well as it is.

Rewire your subs back to 4 ohms and see if your amp still works. It could very well be smoked and that's your immediate problem. Shorting to ground will definitely cause you to blow fuses galore. Also, understand that if it is smoked, it was caused by running it like you did.

Take this as a lesson learned. I'm not going to flame you, as I've done some pretty ridiculous stuff as well.

 
I was wanting to know something. I had an 80AMP fuse in my power run to my amp. I popped it when I wired the amp down to 1 ohm. The amp only has 2 30AMP fuses. How can it draw more than 80amps, but not pop the 2 30 amp fuses that are in the amp?
the reason is because when your amp tries to draw an amount of current that is too large the fuse on the power wire is the first one in the series for the current to hit... and your amp is not 1 ohm stable if its that rockford... i could run a .5 load of speakers on an amp that is only 4 ohms... (once) lol

 
dude... **** off... plain and simple. i dunno why anybody would want to help your stoopid *** anyways. and since you seem to know everything. go figure it out .




Bass
Nice way of showing your ignorance, agreed?

I have my subs wired to 4 ohms, I only put that 1 ohm load on it twice, to see if the amp would take that 1 ohm load, which is when my fuse blew, and then to see if it would when I put the 100amp fuse in it. When I found that the amp stayed on at a 1 ohm load for a period of time, I rewired them back to 4 ohms. The amp DID play at 1 ohm for quite some time. (But I guess this means it's not 1ohm stable...) Yes, I was a moron for tryin' it, but as you said, I was thinking outside of the box. The only reason why I said it was 1 ohm stable, was because it didn't go into protect, it didn't shut off, it did get a little warm, but nothing that was harmful. I still have my subs being powered off of the same amp, just at a 4 ohm load. Once I got to the store to get new fuses, I did put an 80amp fuse back in, inplace of the 100amp fuse. The only reason why the fuse blew was because it was over the rated limit of the fuse, it is perfectly acceptable to up that fuse IF you have appropriate sized wire for such current transfer, which I do have the appropriate sized wire for the amount of current transfer.

 
Car : Black 1995 Grand Am (2.3 Liter with 5 speed manual)

Headunit : Cheap P.O.S. Mine Broke

Front Stage : Hypnotic HV5 5.25" Components (Waiting To Be Installed. )

Front Stage Amp : None, Sold my Hifonics

Rear Stage : None, not going to have rear fill.

Rear Stage Amp : None, not going to have rear fill.

Subwoofers : Dual Hifonics HF12D4's

Subwoofer Amp : Rockford Fosgate P5002 (Bridged at 4 ohms)

Subwoofer Box : Prefab Sealed .5-.75Cubes (Can't really remember the specs)

are you telling everyone one that you were right in what you did with the fuse and sub load???

you dont seem to be taking any help just telling people you were right in what you did(no you were not)

you amp is not made to be ran safe at 1ohm ..... dont do it .... dont blow fuses....

no go try to think outside the box some more and get your attiude adjusted!

 
When did I ever say I was right? Didn't I say I corrected the problem? Since I corrected the problem, wouldn't that mean I knew I was doin' something wrong? How about you tell everyone else to get their attitude adjusted. All I was saying, for temporary, that 100amp fuse was fine (while at a 4ohm load), was it, or was it not? Also, did I ask for help? No, these people are not trying to help. Helping is not flaming on someone for what they did, but rather trying to appropriately help me fix the problem. Not telling me to **** off, or just plain tell me I was in the wrong, and not saying why, besides don't up the amperage.

 
(a) If it blew a fuse rated at a higher amperage than the amp is even designed to draw at full tilt that, at least to me, would indicate that the amp didn't particularly care for the manner in which it was being treated

(b) Just because it didn't blow the 100a fuse doesn't mean it is 1 Ohm stable. Are you certain there was no enclosure rise coming into play keeping the amp at juuuuust high enough of a resistance load to not blow that 100a fuse?

Reference TommyK90's latest thread. Impedence rise of 3.2 Ohms or something like that! I would wager that isn't anywhere near where he actually has them wired...

Just my $0.02 ~

 
take it from me the guy who knows how to get flamed better than all of ca.com... if they say you were wrong admit you were... the ohm ratings on amps are for a reason... theroetically an amp can run at any ohm load to a certain extent... but running an ohm load lower than the rating IS dangerous even if it seems to be running ok... its ok that you experimented but don't do it again... you are lucky your amp still does work....

TRUST the ratings that come with your amp... don't test them... unless your purpose is to test it... then don't do it inside your car... you will start a fire

 
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