how do you run big systems

i am running 2 12" linear compression audiobahns that are rated at 2000 watts a piece so figure 1200 - 1500 if im lucky and for amps i have 2 of the audiobahn 2500 watt amps so once again figure with them 2000 watts but there detuned so i dnt fry the subs i am currently running them at 2 ohms the boxes are 3.86 cubic feet for each sub and the box is tuned to 18.3 hhz its a ported box i have an optima battery with 3 1 farad caps and of course im running 0/1 gauge power and ground wire its a stock altenator actually its still the origianl one and my head lights dnt even blink the system is real loud i was shocked i can turn on all my neons at night with my head lights on and have the system cranked up and nothing

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/hilarious.gif.02a037aad04aa96f19982b298a3d70a8.gif

 
i am running 2 12" linear compression audiobahns that are rated at 2000 watts a piece so figure 1200 - 1500 if im lucky and for amps i have 2 of the audiobahn 2500 watt amps so once again figure with them 2000 watts but there detuned so i dnt fry the subs i am currently running them at 2 ohms the boxes are 3.86 cubic feet for each sub and the box is tuned to 18.3 hhz its a ported box i have an optima battery with 3 1 farad caps and of course im running 0/1 gauge power and ground wire its a stock altenator actually its still the origianl one and my head lights dnt even blink the system is real loud i was shocked i can turn on all my neons at night with my head lights on and have the system cranked up and nothing
Its his first post, he must be stating all the MAX power ratrings and not the RMS. I bet its a prefabbed box, and the 18.3HZ is the serial number, and the 0 awg is RAPTOR cable so its like 8AWG

 
Im running 2500 watts and i got DUAL alts the 130 stock amp for everything except the stereo system then my 200 amp to run ONLY my stereo systems with 1/0 wiring and a hc1800 and 800 battery.

 
Im running 2500 watts and i got DUAL alts the 130 stock amp for everything except the stereo system then my 200 amp to run ONLY my stereo systems with 1/0 wiring and a hc1800 and 800 battery.
I wired my dual alts together in parallel, the only reason that I'm aware of to keep them seperate is if you're running an external regulator to the 200A one to up the voltage to 16 or 18V.

any particular reason other than, that just how you did it.... J/W since I don't get to talk to a lot of others running dual alts.

 
i am running 2 12" linear compression audiobahns that are rated at 2000 watts a piece so figure 1200 - 1500 if im lucky and for amps i have 2 of the audiobahn 2500 watt amps so once again figure with them 2000 watts but there detuned so i dnt fry the subs i am currently running them at 2 ohms the boxes are 3.86 cubic feet for each sub and the box is tuned to 18.3 hhz its a ported box i have an optima battery with 3 1 farad caps and of course im running 0/1 gauge power and ground wire its a stock altenator actually its still the origianl one and my head lights dnt even blink the system is real loud i was shocked i can turn on all my neons at night with my head lights on and have the system cranked up and nothing
LMAO.....tuned to 18.3 hz is this a joke? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/slap.gif.87520e8ca8e90076ac30e777c0de5331.gif

 
I wired my dual alts together in parallel, the only reason that I'm aware of to keep them seperate is if you're running an external regulator to the 200A one to up the voltage to 16 or 18V.
any particular reason other than, that just how you did it.... J/W since I don't get to talk to a lot of others running dual alts.
i agree with everything you said....no reason to seperate unless your running 12/16v combo and need them seperated.

If you have a 130 AND a 200 why not parallel them up and let your system take advantage of the 330..your car doesnt need that much of it for normal operation. Seperating 2 12v Alts is the last thing i would do myself. Im about to paralell 3 of them up pretty soon here. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com

 
Yea i just wanted to have seperate electrical system for the my system so if i run into any problems it wont affect my car, plus i dont want my alternator to have to charge 3 batteries.

 
Its his first post, he must be stating all the MAX power ratrings and not the RMS. I bet its a prefabbed box, and the 18.3HZ is the serial number, and the 0 awg is RAPTOR cable so its like 8AWG
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rotflol.gif.b453361716769b8110ddefc85ff03cd2.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/hilarious.gif.02a037aad04aa96f19982b298a3d70a8.gif

 
Dont confuse the nubb. He might actually listen to you.
You will never need a capacitor in your life!
(i) Take your head unit out of its mounting location and then uninstall any amplifier(s) you have currently incorporated in your setup.

(ii) Take them in the house.

(iii) Disassemble them and remove and and all capacitors found within. Reassemble this equipment sans capacitors.

(iv) Take this modified equipment back out to your vehicle and reinstall it all in the previously installed locations

(v) Report back to us on exactly how well any of it works once you've accomplished Steps i - iv.

Thanks for playing and it will be greatly appreciated if you would immediately cease and desist spreading misinformation to people that may not actually know better.

 
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