How close to peak power do you all push your components?


Timbo74

CarAudio.com Well Known
Aug 10, 2019
130
17
Wisconsin
I am just curious to what everyone feels safe, pushing through their components, as I have had a few members on here suggest I bridge my 4 channel amp, for my door speakers. I am very weary of this idea because my components have a peak power rating of 220w per side, bridged my amp would be putting out 200w x2 rms.
Isn’t that kind of risky? These are Boston SL60S 80w rms per side. My JL jx400/4D does 70w [email protected]’t that be safer? Or would it be worth bridging? I really don’t want to cook the Boston’s.
 

blazian87

CarAudio.com Elite
10+ year member
Mar 12, 2007
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Los Angeles, CA
First thing is you're NEVER supposed to look at peak power as it tells you NOTHING.

Second thing is you can never have too much power as this will give you headroom thus giving you less distortion overall.

and Third is Speakers running on rated power is BS. I rather run on double the power amp and keep my amp cool than an amp that is just barely enough. Running too little power is actually more risky than too much power.. keep that in mind.

You have to consider that there's always fluctuations in impedance rise in any speaker playing music. So that means even if you think you're running 'X' amount of power, you're actually getting less.

I'm not really a fan of bridging amps but it can certainly be done. I would only do it if your power is really inadequate. Otherwise, ideally you want an amp that actually produce the power needed without bridging. With bridging, you have to be careful about your gains as it can get really hot and may start to malfunction if abused.
 
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Timbo74

Timbo74

CarAudio.com Well Known
Aug 10, 2019
130
17
Wisconsin
First thing is you're NEVER supposed to look at peak power as it tells you NOTHING.

Second thing is you can never have too much power as this will give you headroom thus giving you less distortion overall.

and Third is Speakers running on rated power is BS. I rather run on double the power amp and keep my amp cool than an amp that is just barely enough. Running too little power is actually more risky than too much power.. keep that in mind.

You have to consider that there's always fluctuations in impedance rise in any speaker playing music. So that means even if you think you're running 'X' amount of power, you're actually getting less.

I'm not really a fan of bridging amps but it can certainly be done. I would only do it if your power is really inadequate. Otherwise, ideally you want an amp that actually produce the power needed without bridging. With bridging, you have to be careful about your gains as it can get really hot and may start to malfunction if abused.
So, should I just try the setup un-bridged first, and see if it’s sufficient? And if not, bridge it, but play it safe with the gain?
I was planning a little rear fill, but I’m not so sure I’ll even want rear fill...a fifth gen Prelude isn’t very big.
 

blazian87

CarAudio.com Elite
10+ year member
Mar 12, 2007
1,374
27
Los Angeles, CA
So, should I just try the setup un-bridged first, and see if it’s sufficient? And if not, bridge it, but play it safe with the gain?
I was planning a little rear fill, but I’m not so sure I’ll even want rear fill...a fifth gen Prelude isn’t very big.
yeah that's what I would do. It's not even that hard to switch up the wires.
 

Boomin_tahoe

Hurtin' feelings errrday.
10+ year member
Jul 24, 2005
15,306
137
WA
First thing is you're NEVER supposed to look at peak power as it tells you NOTHING.

Second thing is you can never have too much power as this will give you headroom thus giving you less distortion overall.

and Third is Speakers running on rated power is BS. I rather run on double the power amp and keep my amp cool than an amp that is just barely enough. Running too little power is actually more risky than too much power.. keep that in mind.

You have to consider that there's always fluctuations in impedance rise in any speaker playing music. So that means even if you think you're running 'X' amount of power, you're actually getting less.

I'm not really a fan of bridging amps but it can certainly be done. I would only do it if your power is really inadequate. Otherwise, ideally you want an amp that actually produce the power needed without bridging. With bridging, you have to be careful about your gains as it can get really hot and may start to malfunction if abused.
This guy knows what he's talking about. My amp was benched to do over 200 rms into 2 ohms and according to what it's supposed to do on paper, 175x4. I got some Polk comps that handle 125 rms. the trick is setting the gain properly with a clean signal and limiting the amps output to match the speakers rms output.
 

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blazian87

CarAudio.com Elite
10+ year member
Mar 12, 2007
1,374
27
Los Angeles, CA
This guy knows what he's talking about. My amp was benched to do over 200 rms into 2 ohms and according to what it's supposed to do on paper, 175x4. I got some Polk comps that handle 125 rms. the trick is setting the gain properly with a clean signal and limiting the amps output to match the speakers rms output.
man I wish I had bought an elemental designs amp back in the day. I would've probably never sold it either. That with a brahma sub was my dream setup as a kid.
 
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Timbo74

Timbo74

CarAudio.com Well Known
Aug 10, 2019
130
17
Wisconsin
Well now that I’ve been doing some research, I’m thinking about biamping, instead of bridging the amp. The stress would be less on the amp, and the sound quality is supposed to be better. Since the Boston x overs are setup for biamp, I may as well. The hard part is gonna be finding another blank in the plug big enough to drill out, to get another speaker wire through the drivers door, and then I’ll just run 2 to the passenger door.
I have 50” of speaker wire coming on Saturday, but now, that probably isn’t gonna be enough lol.
 

audiobaun

CarAudio.com Veteran
Jun 28, 2011
10,154
120
USA
I am just curious to what everyone feels safe, pushing through their components, as I have had a few members on here suggest I bridge my 4 channel amp, for my door speakers. I am very weary of this idea because my components have a peak power rating of 220w per side, bridged my amp would be putting out 200w x2 rms.
Isn’t that kind of risky? These are Boston SL60S 80w rms per side. My JL jx400/4D does 70w [email protected]’t that be safer? Or would it be worth bridging? I really don’t want to cook the Boston’s.
Keep in mind, @4 ohm thatJL is 70x4 thats at 4 ohms.When you bridge it you will be lowering the ohm load down to 2 ohm load with approx.Double the power/ but that is at a 2 ohm load.If those speakers are not rated for a 2 ohm load,.. expect failure in the near future.Look at the RMS factor on speakers and ohm values.. never at Peak.If you are 50-60+ RMS power above the Speakers RMS value and at that ohm load, you can expect the amplifier to run at a less stress threshold as well as running cooler and lasting a lot longer than being maxed,or ran hard on the daily. Yet, finding that sweet spot of 50-75 rms on a 100 watt rms speaker is just fine as well tuned properly.I wouldnt place a 2 ohm load on a 4 ohm speaker load. Expect failure /damaged/ cooked speakers pretty soon.Read up on Ohm loads and how to wire accordingly to he final ohm value and match amplifier power and ohm load/values properly. Just my 2 cents and experiencing
 

audiobaun

CarAudio.com Veteran
Jun 28, 2011
10,154
120
USA
I am just curious to what everyone feels safe, pushing through their components, as I have had a few members on here suggest I bridge my 4 channel amp, for my door speakers. I am very weary of this idea because my components have a peak power rating of 220w per side, bridged my amp would be putting out 200w x2 rms.
Isn’t that kind of risky? These are Boston SL60S 80w rms per side. My JL jx400/4D does 70w [email protected]’t that be safer? Or would it be worth bridging? I really don’t want to cook the Boston’s.
Those are 4 ohm rated speakers by the way, if these are the same
 
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Timbo74

Timbo74

CarAudio.com Well Known
Aug 10, 2019
130
17
Wisconsin
Those are 4 ohm rated speakers by the way, if these are the same
Yes, those are the same speakers.
What do you think about biamping them?
If I ran say, channels 1 and 3 to one crossover, and channels 2 and 4 to the other. That would be 70w to each driver at a 4ohm load. If I set the gains right, I should have a really good front stage, without raising the amps normal load.
 

audiobaun

CarAudio.com Veteran
Jun 28, 2011
10,154
120
USA
Yes, those are the same speakers.
What do you think about biamping them?
If I ran say, channels 1 and 3 to one crossover, and channels 2 and 4 to the other. That would be 70w to each driver at a 4ohm load. If I set the gains right, I should have a really good front stage, without raising the amps normal load.
I think it will sound just fine, and if you Bi-Amp, you have a nice option to tweek in the tweets for your liking as well as the mids
You have Bi-amp option on those cross-overs.. Utilize them to your advantage and tune those speakers to your liking.
 
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audiobaun

CarAudio.com Veteran
Jun 28, 2011
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120
USA
I mean, look at how many amps ive had to run to the front stage in the truck to try to keep up with , 4 sub on 4 sub amps (added one amp per sub to keep running cooler and a little cleaner)/I have an amp on every speaker/or pair.No HU powered speakers.Im changing things up in a bit
 

audiobaun

CarAudio.com Veteran
Jun 28, 2011
10,154
120
USA
I have always placed the crossovers just under the front seats or just under the dash reachable so that if I decide to make changes, the wiring is very accessable, and the Crossovers usually stay a little cooler than shoved behind a kick panel collecting Heat
 
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Timbo74

Timbo74

CarAudio.com Well Known
Aug 10, 2019
130
17
Wisconsin
I have always placed the crossovers just under the front seats or just under the dash reachable so that if I decide to make changes, the wiring is very accessable, and the Crossovers usually stay a little cooler than shoved behind a kick panel collecting Heat
I have a perfect cubby for the crossovers right inside the door panel. When I tear it apart to run wire, I will snap a pic or two.
 
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audiobaun

CarAudio.com Veteran
Jun 28, 2011
10,154
120
USA
I have a perfect cubby for the crossovers right inside the door panel. When I tear it apart to run wire, I will snap a pic or two.
INSIDE Door panels are not a great environment for any cross over unit.Heat is one Killer, and Moisture is another, and last but not least.. Vibration is another
 
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Timbo74

Timbo74

CarAudio.com Well Known
Aug 10, 2019
130
17
Wisconsin
INSIDE Door panels are not a great environment for any cross over unit.Heat is one Killer, and Moisture is another, and last but not least.. Vibration is another
Man, there really isn’t many other options, this is a fifth gen Prelude...there isn’t a bunch of room. I am doing some preventative measures, to make it last. I can’t do much about the heat, but the vibration, and moisture, I can.
Space is the biggest factor....there is none, and these Boston crossovers are not small.
Under the seat is not an option, under the dash is very iffy....in the trunk, would probably be the best bet, but then I Would have to rethink a lot of things.
 

audiobaun

CarAudio.com Veteran
Jun 28, 2011
10,154
120
USA
Man, there really isn’t many other options, this is a fifth gen Prelude...there isn’t a bunch of room. I am doing some preventative measures, to make it last. I can’t do much about the heat, but the vibration, and moisture, I can.
Space is the biggest factor....there is none, and these Boston crossovers are not small.
Under the seat is not an option, under the dash is very iffy....in the trunk, would probably be the best bet, but then I Would have to rethink a lot of things.
Trunk would be just fine..I used to place Crossovers just after the amp and run the wires( different colors,Silver and copper for the Mids and like Blk and red for the tweets) that way i never got them mixed up or run like12 ga to mids and 14-16 ga to tweets
 
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Timbo74

Timbo74

CarAudio.com Well Known
Aug 10, 2019
130
17
Wisconsin
I’ll have to do a bit of studying my car, and see if I can find a better location, I really don’t think under the dash is an option. But I’ll look tomorrow, to see if I can do anything.
At this point in my build, a change like this, won’t cause too much chaos, thanks for pointing out a probable issue, so I can correct it.
 

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