How close to peak power do you all push your components?

[Timbo74]

I am just curious to what everyone feels safe, pushing through their components, as I have had a few members on here suggest I bridge my 4 channel amp, for my door speakers. I am very weary of this idea because my components have a peak power rating of 220w per side, bridged my amp would be putting out 200w x2 rms.
Isn’t that kind of risky? These are Boston SL60S 80w rms per side. My JL jx400/4D does 70w rmsx4@4ohm...wouldn’t that be safer? Or would it be worth bridging? I really don’t want to cook the Boston’s.

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[blazian87 10+ year member]

First thing is you're NEVER supposed to look at peak power as it tells you NOTHING.

Second thing is you can never have too much power as this will give you headroom thus giving you less distortion overall.

and Third is Speakers running on rated power is BS. I rather run on double the power amp and keep my amp cool than an amp that is just barely enough. Running too little power is actually more risky than too much power.. keep that in mind.

You have to consider that there's always fluctuations in impedance rise in any speaker playing music. So that means even if you think you're running 'X' amount of power, you're actually getting less.

I'm not really a fan of bridging amps but it can certainly be done. I would only do it if your power is really inadequate. Otherwise, ideally you want an amp that actually produce the power needed without bridging. With bridging, you have to be careful about your gains as it can get really hot and may start to malfunction if abused.

 

[Timbo74]

First thing is you're NEVER supposed to look at peak power as it tells you NOTHING.

Second thing is you can never have too much power as this will give you headroom thus giving you less distortion overall.

and Third is Speakers running on rated power is BS. I rather run on double the power amp and keep my amp cool than an amp that is just barely enough. Running too little power is actually more risky than too much power.. keep that in mind.

You have to consider that there's always fluctuations in impedance rise in any speaker playing music. So that means even if you think you're running 'X' amount of power, you're actually getting less.

I'm not really a fan of bridging amps but it can certainly be done. I would only do it if your power is really inadequate. Otherwise, ideally you want an amp that actually produce the power needed without bridging. With bridging, you have to be careful about your gains as it can get really hot and may start to malfunction if abused.

So, should I just try the setup un-bridged first, and see if it’s sufficient? And if not, bridge it, but play it safe with the gain?
I was planning a little rear fill, but I’m not so sure I’ll even want rear fill...a fifth gen Prelude isn’t very big.

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

So, should I just try the setup un-bridged first, and see if it’s sufficient? And if not, bridge it, but play it safe with the gain?
I was planning a little rear fill, but I’m not so sure I’ll even want rear fill...a fifth gen Prelude isn’t very big.

yeah that's what I would do. It's not even that hard to switch up the wires.

 

[Timbo74]

yeah that's what I would do. It's not even that hard to switch up the wires.

No it’s not hard, thanks for the advise.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

First thing is you're NEVER supposed to look at peak power as it tells you NOTHING.

Second thing is you can never have too much power as this will give you headroom thus giving you less distortion overall.

and Third is Speakers running on rated power is BS. I rather run on double the power amp and keep my amp cool than an amp that is just barely enough. Running too little power is actually more risky than too much power.. keep that in mind.

You have to consider that there's always fluctuations in impedance rise in any speaker playing music. So that means even if you think you're running 'X' amount of power, you're actually getting less.

I'm not really a fan of bridging amps but it can certainly be done. I would only do it if your power is really inadequate. Otherwise, ideally you want an amp that actually produce the power needed without bridging. With bridging, you have to be careful about your gains as it can get really hot and may start to malfunction if abused.

This guy knows what he's talking about. My amp was benched to do over 200 rms into 2 ohms and according to what it's supposed to do on paper, 175x4. I got some Polk comps that handle 125 rms. the trick is setting the gain properly with a clean signal and limiting the amps output to match the speakers rms output.

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

This guy knows what he's talking about. My amp was benched to do over 200 rms into 2 ohms and according to what it's supposed to do on paper, 175x4. I got some Polk comps that handle 125 rms. the trick is setting the gain properly with a clean signal and limiting the amps output to match the speakers rms output.

man I wish I had bought an elemental designs amp back in the day. I would've probably never sold it either. That with a brahma sub was my dream setup as a kid.

 

[Timbo74]

Well now that I’ve been doing some research, I’m thinking about biamping, instead of bridging the amp. The stress would be less on the amp, and the sound quality is supposed to be better. Since the Boston x overs are setup for biamp, I may as well. The hard part is gonna be finding another blank in the plug big enough to drill out, to get another speaker wire through the drivers door, and then I’ll just run 2 to the passenger door.
I have 50” of speaker wire coming on Saturday, but now, that probably isn’t gonna be enough lol.

 

[Knockininthe608]

Please have your amps tuned to insure no clipping as if u are running more power then advertise it could cause issues

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I am just curious to what everyone feels safe, pushing through their components, as I have had a few members on here suggest I bridge my 4 channel amp, for my door speakers. I am very weary of this idea because my components have a peak power rating of 220w per side, bridged my amp would be putting out 200w x2 rms.
Isn’t that kind of risky? These are Boston SL60S 80w rms per side. My JL jx400/4D does 70w rmsx4@4ohm...wouldn’t that be safer? Or would it be worth bridging? I really don’t want to cook the Boston’s.

Keep in mind, @4 ohm thatJL is 70x4 thats at 4 ohms.When you bridge it you will be lowering the ohm load down to 2 ohm load with approx.Double the power/ but that is at a 2 ohm load.If those speakers are not rated for a 2 ohm load,.. expect failure in the near future.Look at the RMS factor on speakers and ohm values.. never at Peak.If you are 50-60+ RMS power above the Speakers RMS value and at that ohm load, you can expect the amplifier to run at a less stress threshold as well as running cooler and lasting a lot longer than being maxed,or ran hard on the daily. Yet, finding that sweet spot of 50-75 rms on a 100 watt rms speaker is just fine as well tuned properly.I wouldnt place a 2 ohm load on a 4 ohm speaker load. Expect failure /damaged/ cooked speakers pretty soon.Read up on Ohm loads and how to wire accordingly to he final ohm value and match amplifier power and ohm load/values properly. Just my 2 cents and experiencing

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I am just curious to what everyone feels safe, pushing through their components, as I have had a few members on here suggest I bridge my 4 channel amp, for my door speakers. I am very weary of this idea because my components have a peak power rating of 220w per side, bridged my amp would be putting out 200w x2 rms.
Isn’t that kind of risky? These are Boston SL60S 80w rms per side. My JL jx400/4D does 70w rmsx4@4ohm...wouldn’t that be safer? Or would it be worth bridging? I really don’t want to cook the Boston’s.

Those are 4 ohm rated speakers by the way, if these are the same

Boston Acoustics SL60 SL Series 6-1/2" 2-way Component System SL

Boston Acoustics SL60 • SL Series 6-1/2" 2-way Component System SL-60 6-1/2" Component Speaker System • RMS Power: 80W • Peak Power: 220W • Frequency Response: 45Hz-22kHz • Sensitivity: 90dB • Separable and dockable model-specific tweeters

www.sonicelectronix.com

 

[Timbo74]

Those are 4 ohm rated speakers by the way, if these are the same

Boston Acoustics SL60 SL Series 6-1/2" 2-way Component System SL

Boston Acoustics SL60 • SL Series 6-1/2" 2-way Component System SL-60 6-1/2" Component Speaker System • RMS Power: 80W • Peak Power: 220W • Frequency Response: 45Hz-22kHz • Sensitivity: 90dB • Separable and dockable model-specific tweeters

www.sonicelectronix.com

Yes, those are the same speakers.
What do you think about biamping them?
If I ran say, channels 1 and 3 to one crossover, and channels 2 and 4 to the other. That would be 70w to each driver at a 4ohm load. If I set the gains right, I should have a really good front stage, without raising the amps normal load.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Yes, those are the same speakers.
What do you think about biamping them?
If I ran say, channels 1 and 3 to one crossover, and channels 2 and 4 to the other. That would be 70w to each driver at a 4ohm load. If I set the gains right, I should have a really good front stage, without raising the amps normal load.

I think it will sound just fine, and if you Bi-Amp, you have a nice option to tweek in the tweets for your liking as well as the mids

Boston Acoustics SL60

6-1/2" component speaker system For 6-1/2" and 6-3/4" openings

www.crutchfield.com

You have Bi-amp option on those cross-overs.. Utilize them to your advantage and tune those speakers to your liking.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I mean, look at how many amps ive had to run to the front stage in the truck to try to keep up with , 4 sub on 4 sub amps (added one amp per sub to keep running cooler and a little cleaner)/I have an amp on every speaker/or pair.No HU powered speakers.Im changing things up in a bit

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I have always placed the crossovers just under the front seats or just under the dash reachable so that if I decide to make changes, the wiring is very accessable, and the Crossovers usually stay a little cooler than shoved behind a kick panel collecting Heat