How close can I get to 3400wrms for $400?
- Thread starter DS Autosports
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I think he was insinuating your reference to the 'dampening' factor; As the standardized test for determining the dampening factor includes writing X single digit numbers (starting with 1 and going up to 9 then starting over) and putting them in Y hats and selecting one number from each hat, then adding them all together. X is the designer's age, and Y is equal to the displacement of your amp in cubic inches.
However, a lot of audio companies blow the dampening factor out of proportion by rounding up to an even number.
However, a lot of audio companies blow the dampening factor out of proportion by rounding up to an even number.
Orwhat if I was?
Ok someone asked me yesterday why I havent been on here much anymore. Lol my new answer is - too many know it all's.
Im done on this thread. Good luck with your amps and builds with amps your expecting to get 4000 watts for 400.00 out of. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif
didnt say 4000 out of 400. 4300 out of 750(audioque, very reputable company, rated 4300watts @ 1ohm @ 14volts), 3500 out of 420(audiopipe, recent amps have done rated). youre an idiot. i know about these amps because i was going to buy one or the other so i researched them. next thing your going to say is that my clif 4800 doesnt do it rated power either huh (5200watts @ 1ohm @ 13volts)?
price isnt always an indicator of power. hell those audiopipe 3k did rated and were only $300. and jl is $600 for 1000watts
i would say you think you are a know-it-all. do some research before you talk about things you know nothing about
No I wasnt lol This is damping factor....not the crap you posted about size etc.
The term damping factor can also refer to the amount of damping in any oscillatory system or in numerical algorithms. In audio system terminology, the damping factor gives the ratio of the rated impedance of the loudspeaker to the source impedance. Only the resistive part of the loudspeaker impedance is used. The amplifier output impedance is also assumed to be totally resistive. The source impedance (that seen by the loudspeaker) includes the connecting cable impedance. The load impedance Zload (input impedance) and the source impedance Zsource (output impedance).
In loudspeaker systems, the value of the damping factor between a particular loudspeaker and a particular amplifier describes the ability of the amplifier to control undesirable movement of the speaker cone near the resonant frequency of the speaker system. It is usually used in the context of low-frequency driver behavior, and especially so in the case of electrodynamic drivers, which use a magnetic motor to generate the forces which move the diaphragm.
Speaker diaphragms have mass, and their surrounds have stiffness. Together, these form a resonant system, and the mechanical cone resonance may be excited by electrical signals (e.g., pulses) at audio frequencies. But a driver with a voice coil is also a current generator, since it has a coil attached to the cone and suspension, and that coil is immersed in a magnetic field. For every motion the coil makes, it will generate a current that will be seen by any electrically attached equipment, such as an amplifier. In fact, the amp's output circuitry will be the main electrical load on the "voice coil current generator". If that load has low resistance, the current will be larger and the voice coil will be more strongly forced to decelerate. A high damping factor (which requires low output impedance at the amplifier output) very rapidly damps unwanted cone movements induced by the mechanical resonance of the speaker, acting as the equivalent of a "brake" on the voice coil motion (just as a short circuit across the terminals of a rotary electrical generator will make it very hard to turn). It is generally (though not universally) thought that tighter control of voice coil motion is desirable, as it is believed to contribute to better-quality sound.
A high damping factor indicates that an amplifier will have greater control over the movement of the speaker cone, particularly in the bass region near the resonant frequency of the driver's mechanical resonance. However, the damping factor at any particular frequency will vary, since driver voice coils are complex impedances whose values vary with frequency. In addition, the electrical characteristics of every voice coil will change with temperature; high power levels will increase coil temperature, and thus resistance. And finally, passive crossovers (made of relatively large inductors, capacitors, and resistors) are between the amplifier and speaker drivers and also affect the damping factor, again in a way that varies with frequency.
For audio power amplifiers, this source impedance Zsource (also: output impedance) is generally smaller than 0.1 ohm (Ω), and from the point of view of the driver voice coil, is a near short-circuit.
Again Apples to Oranges. Good Luck! Now I am done on this thread.
I would hook up a REAL sub with a REAL amp in the shop with lower power handling and show him how they blow W7s outta the water. You can easily sound better then w7s w/o even upgrading electrical. It's all in the install and enclosure. I would tell him If he wants to get ripped off, take his business elsewhere
i agree go with an audioque 2200d Audioque: Amps: AQ2200D
or a solid audio f2500d for 350 shipped bnib
or a solid audio f2500d for 350 shipped bnib
I'd put DC Level 3's properly installed on a clean 1500rms shared against the w7's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
The Q's on 2k shared would be even better.
Though the w7's are NOT bad. Just too common for my tastes.
But selling people stuff you KNOW for a fact is gonna blow up their speakers isn't? Or selling them a POS amp like Boss or Visonik? I would cut him a package deal on some subs with a amp and tell him I'd build him the box and if it didn't sound better and louder then the w7s then I'd redo it HIS way with no additional charge
hes already told him it will blow his speakers but the guy doesnt think so, so when it happens, he is going to need more speakers and will come back. i never said to sell him some overrated crap. but at the same time, he has to get what the customer wants or else the customer will just go elsewhere. in this economy, you cant turn away business because its not what you think will work best.
ture true... but can't he just sit the dude down and explain it to him? tell him his friend's amp isn't really putting that much power to those subs? Idk, as much as i hate w7s, I just HATE to see people mess up their $hit when you know what the customer REALLY wants is a loud bumpin system
some people just cant be reasoned with. i was at my local cartoys and was demoing my system for one of the guys there. some other guy comes up and says "what you hitting? 200dbs?" i was like no, 152s and he said my system wasnt good then cause his type xs hit 190s. even the cartoys installer told him that was impossible and the dude said we didnt know anything and that he gives his type x 5kwatts a piece.
when it comes to guys like this, its better to just give them what they want then to even argue with them
LMFAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WOW!!! Lol ur right i guess... idk if i cud do that lol
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