Help with new system setup please!!!

[messyjesse87]

hey all, new to the forums here!!! Lots of info, but i need some help with my personal setup. I will try to make this as short as possible... I have a 2011 scion tc stock alternator puts out about 90-95 amps, i have a optima yellowtop as well. also will be doing the big 3 with 0 gauge.

I am purchasing two alpine type x ten's that i am going to power with the hifonics brutus 2100 monoblock (recommended by friend) which puts out 2100rms at 1 ohm.

I will have the type x's running down to about 1.3 ohm according to volt meter. This amp has no fuse and i will be utilizing my 250 amp stinger circuit breaker. I will also be running cdt cl pro series 3-way comps in front 2-way in back with a infinity kappa four amp, rated 125w rms x4. This amp has 2 40A fuses on it. I am running all stinger 1/0 gauge from batter to circuit breaker, to a distro block output to 4 gauge to the amps. I also will have a stinger hpc hybrid 30 farad capacitor (got on a steal!) inline to the sub amp. ok here are my questions...

1. will my stock electric system handle this set-up i have?

2. Will the 250A circuit breaker be enough for this set-up?

3. any suggestions to help with my setup/install day???

Thanks in advance!!

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[Vossy 10+ year member]

4 gauge seems small for the hifonics amp, and you need to do the big 3 and at least another good battery.

 

[All_Logix 10+ year member]

^^^agree, honestly I think upgrading your alt will be extremely helpful, and the 250 a breaker is "theoretically" gonna flip. if the Brutus does 2100 watts, at 100% efficiency would draw around 180-190 amps alone, and I promise it's not 100% efficient and that infinity amp is more than likely class AB which is even more inefficient. But since it's a breaker and not a fuse, all that could go wrong is it flips it and you gotta get something new, so try it out.

 

[matt_bennett05 10+ year member]

That electrical system will not suffice for that much power. I did the same thing in an Accord and fried 2 alts in no time... A good alt and 2nd battery should suffice.

 

[messyjesse87]

^^^agree, honestly I think upgrading your alt will be extremely helpful, and the 250 a breaker is "theoretically" gonna flip. if the Brutus does 2100 watts, at 100% efficiency would draw around 180-190 amps alone, and I promise it's not 100% efficient and that infinity amp is more than likely class AB which is even more inefficient. But since it's a breaker and not a fuse, all that could go wrong is it flips it and you gotta get something new, so try it out.

the infinity amp is a class d amp and i probably will run the brutus at 1800w rms

 

[messyjesse87]

any more suggestions please?!?!?!? i want to make sure im ok with this setup for now....

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

the infinity amp is a class d amp and i probably will run the brutus at 1800w rms

link to the infinity amp?

ditch the cap and pick up a deka 9a31 for ~130 shipped on here.

also i kinda doubt that the brutus will actually do rated power, if you havnt bought it yet you may want to look into the mb quart dsc 2000.1 that michaellane has for sale on here, will most likely outperform that brutus.

 

[messyjesse87]

I cant post links yet... to new i guess. its the infinity kappa four 1200w rms... also the brutus amp is cea certified doesnt that mean it puts out that power before clipping?? and i will only run it at 1800w rms... with the new battery wouldnt i need to run a seperate power wire from the battery or will the main run go to the battery and i split it to the amps from there???

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

with the second batt you will simply connect the 1/0 power run to the positive terminals of both batts, having a fuse close to each battery is a good idea as well.

then you use the battery as a distro point, or get a good fused distro to run from it to the amps.

 

---------- Post added at 10:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:23 PM ----------

 

with the second batt you will simply connect the 1/0 power run to the positive terminals of both batts, having a fuse close to each battery is a good idea as well.

then you use the battery as a distro point, or get a good fused distro to run from it to the amps.

 

[messyjesse87]

i have read that doing this puts an extra load on the alt... is this true??? would i need a relay or an isolator??? thanks for your help!

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

an isolator can be a good idea, especially if running a agm in the back and a lead acid upfont. and it does put some strain on the alt, but trying to run a sound system on the alt with out enough battery power to back it up is like trying to run and air compressor with out the tank, it will make things go but not nearly as well.

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

Power/Voltage=Current (at 100 percent efficency). Divide currrent by efficiency to get total current draw from amplifiers. For a daily only setup you can cut the total current draw in 1/2. The resulting number is considered a safe amount of amps (or in case of battery power amp hours) to safely power your system. Remember, your car will also be drawing current, so take that into account as well.

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

Also, the capacitor is not a very wise choice when trying to supply your amplifer. A second battery is a much better choice as stated above.

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

If you are getting a decent AGM deep cell battery. It will only take maybe 10 or 15 amps of current or so from the alternator to charge, while it can typically provide 40-100 AH depending on the model and brand.