Help with dip in my rta

What do y'all think about cdt tweeters? They say that they will go down to 1500khz. The 2" ones will go even lower.
Some of CDT's 1" tweeters will play down to 1,500 Hz and sound good doing it, but it's unwise to cross them at 1,500 Hz for daily use. That is much more likely to result in damage than if they're crossed at roughly 2x that frequency. I usually recommend a 500 Hz crossover with the 2" mid-tweeters for extra protection with a high power amplifier, even though CDT says they will play down to 250 Hz. I will revise that recommendation higher or lower depending on available crossover slopes. CDT mid-tweeters can do exceptionally well with midrange duty at the expense of brightness on the top end.

 
correct me if i'm wrong but we want a slight dip in the 1-2khz range due to our perceived loudness thinking those frequencies are louder than they really are?
sorry.. there is truth to that. as everyone's ear/drum has its own resonant frequency and naturally around there tones are going to be louder..

chances are your experiencing

A comb filtering/cancellation

B you need to adjust your xover. start with changing your slopes first.

C cone breakup

the peaky @ 20k is very very high. things that resonate that high have very little mass. nothing in your car it going to cause that spike its ethier the speaker or the signal. you have a clsss D amp?

 
Some of CDT's 1" tweeters will play down to 1,500 Hz and sound good doing it, but it's unwise to cross them at 1,500 Hz for daily use. That is much more likely to result in damage than if they're crossed at roughly 2x that frequency. I usually recommend a 500 Hz crossover with the 2" mid-tweeters for extra protection with a high power amplifier, even though CDT says they will play down to 250 Hz. I will revise that recommendation higher or lower depending on available crossover slopes. CDT mid-tweeters can do exceptionally well with midrange duty at the expense of brightness on the top end.
i tried them and they where pretty decent. with the DRT-26 and them you can run high excursion midbass as long as it can play up to about 500hz

 
sorry.. there is truth to that. as everyone's ear/drum has its own resonant frequency and naturally around there tones are going to be louder..
chances are your experiencing

A comb filtering/cancellation

B you need to adjust your xover. start with changing your slopes first.

C cone breakup

the peaky @ 20k is very very high. things that resonate that high have very little mass. nothing in your car it going to cause that spike its ethier the speaker or the signal. you have a clsss D amp?
I can't wait for this answer.

What does a class D amp have to do with it?

 
I can't wait for this answer. What does a class D amp have to do with it?
im gonna let you read up on the topology. you want to know read..

 

---------- Post added at 09:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:37 PM ----------

 

No class d, it's a Memphis 4.75 class ab. The 20k peak I may try reversing the polarity on my tweets and see what it does, but as said earlier 20k is barely audible anyways.
i dont see how that would help. best bet is positioning.

 
i guess i don't make a living huh? dude i work 12-14 hours a day for 7 days a week often for 2-3 months straight. get off my nuts.

i was building boxes at 11 years old. i love music and audio in general, ive done the trial and error over the years. im I and E tech by trade as of now i deal with PWM signals quite often. matter fact most throttle control is a PWM output based circuit using a hall efficient sensor. like i said do some reading.

 
i guess i don't make a living huh? dude i work 12-14 hours a day for 7 days a week often for 2-3 months straight. get off my nuts.i was building boxes at 11 years old. i love music and audio in general, ive done the trial and error over the years. im I and E tech by trade as of now i deal with PWM signals quite often. matter fact most throttle control is a PWM output based circuit using a hall efficient sensor. like i said do some reading.
And once again. Proven results mean nothing to you. What you read is more important than reality.

 
First of all, if you can hear 20Khz you're either a bat or a dog or something. Very few adult humans can hear that high.

Now is the problem with either side playing alone or with both together only? I saw a guy once who had to put a sweatshirt rolled up on the hump on the floor between the front seats to square away a cancellation issue. My bet is that the 2Khz problem will persist if you just start throwing new drivers at it.

 
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