Help with amp install 2018 F150

ajb1205

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Finally started the install on my 18 F150. So far I have:

Helix 6.5" comps up front (off stock power for now)

JL JX500D1 running a single 10" JL 10tw3

Will be adding an Audison 8.9 to run the front full active and then Helix 6.5 coaxials in the rear doors when funds allow.

My issue is finding a switched 12v power source for the remote turn on for the amp. In my 13 F150 I was able to use a fuse tap and grab power from the fuse box in the front passenger foot well. Guess Ford doesn't want the use of fuse taps since I cannot get the MICRO2 tap to work... Keeps popping out.

So...does anyone have other suggestions? Can't find anything on the interweb...idk. I'm sure I can grab power from the ingnition but it is a brand new truck and I really don't want to muck with anything if I don't have to.

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

 
If you don't have an area where you can run a new circuit, Don't you have a remote turn on behind the head unit? or in the wiring harness to the head unit? Is this a Factory head unit? What did you do for the other amp? I am running 3 amps in my pickup. I just ran a wire off the remote turn in for the head unit to the rear and added a relay in the back. Just connected a small wire off the main 1/0 awg power I have running to the rear amps in the back for the constant voltage. Connected the relay ground to the main ground 1/0 awg wire too. Used a small 4 post busbar to run the 3 remote turn on wires for each amp, and a 4th for a fan. Made a little panel (its only a few inches square and the relay & busbar just sit between the 2 distribution blocks (power and ground).

 
If that wire is still in the same spot on the 18 you could always use a scotch lock on it they're easy to uninstall. Also I dont know if you got lucky on your 13 but I tried those micro 2 taps on my 11 for a train horn install and I had the exact same issue it looked like I would have to trim plastic to get it to work. If you dont want to tap into that wire you could also use a loc with a remote turn on also Pac makes a Low-voltage Remote Turn-on Trigger. I think ford uses low voltage remotes on its hu so that could be useful although I have 0 experience with it.

 
Finally started the install on my 18 F150. So far I have:
Helix 6.5" comps up front (off stock power for now)

JL JX500D1 running a single 10" JL 10tw3

Will be adding an Audison 8.9 to run the front full active and then Helix 6.5 coaxials in the rear doors when funds allow.

My issue is finding a switched 12v power source for the remote turn on for the amp. In my 13 F150 I was able to use a fuse tap and grab power from the fuse box in the front passenger foot well. Guess Ford doesn't want the use of fuse taps since I cannot get the MICRO2 tap to work... Keeps popping out.

So...does anyone have other suggestions? Can't find anything on the interweb...idk. I'm sure I can grab power from the ingnition but it is a brand new truck and I really don't want to muck with anything if I don't have to.

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk
You can just say fk it and do an on off switch. would be last resort though.

 
Long story short is that a fuse tap WILL work. You need to trim down the edges just a little. If you compare the end to a Micro2 fuse end you will see the difference.

 
I disagree with using a fusetap mostly, because you are then pulling the current of both the original circuit plus now the new circuit through the original factory power wiring that was only designed for that original circuit; however, the remote turn on wire is pulling such a small amount of volts, there's no way the factory would have given a wire that would be that close to its limits.

Are you trimming the actual metal tab of the fusetap where the fuse is inserted? Or the body of the fusetap? If youre trimming off the metal, are you sure its not a mini fuse?

 
Just trimming a hair off the plastic body immediately after the metal tab. Definitely a Micro2. Originally bought a mini so I know that 100%.

 
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