help the stereo wont work

THUNDERBIRD
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Veteran
so i just uninstalled a stereo i put in a kids truck last year and moved it to a new truck a 98 blazer 2 door. so i hook everything up, used a loc t tapped the wires behind the cdplayer kuz there was already 4gauge power and rcas and remote ran from the previous owner. i got it in didnt work, so i look and the fuse was blow no biggy i replaced it with a 40amp, still doesnt work. so i reground the ground kuz it was nasty coroded(spelling) and it kicks on for a few seconds and then shuts off. so i look everything over again and it is all fine, but now it wont work. the red power lights comes on on the amp but nothing so i think maybe its the sub so i hook my spair 10 up to it and nothing, so i am at a lose of what it could be can u guys help me.

 
Check the fuses, including on amp and in the power line.

When those check out, make sure your Ground is to a good clean spot. Also, for a reference, do you have gains all the way down? And what is the amps?

If the ground is 100% and in a great spot, Then the amp could have an issue. Even with junked RCA pre-outs on an old deck the system played. My first sytem had a bad ground and would shut off when a certain amount of power was reached. I quickly remedied this and the amp worked fine, but was still a crappy Sony :lol:

Did you have any noise or music come through for those few brief seconds?

 
i checked all the fuses they are fine. i hooked up another set of rcas thinking it could be that wasnt, it is a bazoka amp that pushes like 300rms@4ohm and its powering a 12" pioneer, i think i am gonna have him come over later this week and i am gonna try to hook it up in my brothers car where the wires are easy to get too. but i was also thinking the amp was fried.

 
well i just found hte instruction manual for the amp online and it said the green light would be on if it was getting power but i have a red light, say it could be a speaker short, speaker grounding out impedance to low or overheating. so i am having him come over tuesday when i dont work so i can look at it, so i will pull the speaker out and look at that and i know it isnt overheating kuz it was doing it from the beginining. and if all that checks out and it still wont work in his car or mine i guess the amp is blown?

 
i am asuming they went to the speakers. and yeah i have a dmm. what other tests can i do, i do know that when i checked the wires on my 12volt disc it said wires internally grounded at speaker. but i checked directwire and i had to go back to 96 to find the wires i used drk blue lightblue, yellow and brown, then yellow for the switched(which i tested and it worked) so should i have tapped the speakers in the rear at the speakers?

 
unhook the LOC. and take a ~9 volt batt, and test the speaker wires. see it it pops the speaker, when you touch + and - . also use the continuity (the buzzer) on the dmm. put your black lead to a bare ground, then touch the red to each wire. if the dmm buzzes. that wire is grounding.

 
so he was over today and i got it working the amp is fine the loc is fine wiring is fine only problem i am having is the remote wire. i tapped into the yellow switched wire behind the deck and it just throws it into protection, so to test it i jumped the battery terminal to the remote terminal and all is fine. so i thougt it was the remote wire that had been run so i just ran a new one right quick and it still doesnt work. what is going on??? when i test it with the dmm it is showing like 17-19v which is weird as hell. so i put it back together and told him i will get a switch and put it in friday after i get out of work. so i will just go straight from power wire to switch and he will have to switch it when he gets in and out. very ghetto i know but thats the only solution right now.

 
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THUNDERBIRD

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