help! System not hitting hard at all.

[NissanKicker 10+ year member]

I have a Cadence ZRS-9000 ...

... It's it's 6000rms @ 1ohm ( 3900rms @ 2ohm & 2500rms @ 4ohm O

Sounds like you need to look @ the settings on your HU.

... I have a ALPINE HU and the Sub/Rear are together:

When I put it on Rear.. It SLAMS!

... When I put it on" Subwoofer ON ".. It doesn't: But that's because when the sub gets turned on, an extra setting gets activated.

So you might wanna look around in you HU.

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

the 7500 is only 1600@1 and 600@4ohm. As i said before, if the subs are wired to 4 and the gains are not adjusted properly or he was clipping the last amp, it is very possible he is sending less power with the new amp. He also needs to recheck all wiring, especially rca's to be sure.

 

[wannabang 10+ year member]

What are your subs wired to? The cadence amp only does 600 watts at 4ohm, and the 500/1 is rated at 500watts at 4, so you could basically be giving them the same power.

It's wired at 4 ohms. I know the sub's getting about the same amount of power, but there's a noticeable change in woofer excursion and overall loudness when the Cadence is hooked up.

RCA's in proper places?
Sounds to me that the RCA's are the suspect due to: "Also' date=' when the HU is set to "rear", it hits harder than when set to "sub"[/u']"

Also, I've seen all too many people put the RCA's in the "output" of an amp, instead of "input".

Two things to check.

they're in the input.

What is the woofer? What is the box tuned to?

JL 13w3 single 4 ohm, 27 hz.

I have the cheapest arsenal HU, and if you're talking about the HU settings, i have a "sub. freq." option, where i can choose from 60 hz, 80 hz, 100 hz, or 200 hz.

if the rca's were hooked up the same on both amps (in the same spot on the HU and in the amp) would it make a difference?

chillin, can you tell me how i could be sending less power with the new amp?

 

[LiveAudio911 10+ year member]

DO you have 1 RCA for each amp, or are you using a y splitter of one RCA Output? because splitting RCA will cause the V to be very low compared to what its actually sending..

-Im not sure what Arsen. you have but i have the HD59 model.. one of their higher end HD's, (so they say ROFL) and I have found the best way is to run the HZ wide open on its highest setting.. and let the Amp deal with the freq.. on its crossover..

 

[wannabang 10+ year member]

The tech from woofers also mentioned that buying a new sub to get the amp to run at a lower ohm load would work, but i'm wondering if how loud it makes the sub would be proportional at all ohm loads, so the 500/1 may still hit harder.

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

Just saying if you set your gains at the same point on both amps doesnt mean it is set to match the Head unit. If you were clipping the jl and didnt know it, it could have put out up to 1000 watts (though you would notice that). But it could still have been putting out more than it is rated at without you noticing. And if the gain is set wrong on the new amp, you could be putting out less than 600. The 500/1 has switchable input voltages. One of the settings is from 200mv-2v. If you were using that one at 3/4 gain, it would be sending a very strong signal from your hu.

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

The tech from woofers also mentioned that buying a new sub to get the amp to run at a lower ohm load would work, but i'm wondering if how loud it makes the sub would be proportional at all ohm loads, so the 500/1 may still hit harder.

If you had a sub wired to 1 ohm, the cadence would be providing 1600 watts. The jl would still give 500, so no, the jl would not hit harder

 

[wannabang 10+ year member]

If you had a sub wired to 1 ohm, the cadence would be providing 1600 watts. The jl would still give 500, so no, the jl would not hit harder

So new subs would take care of my problem? Goodie.

Just saying if you set your gains at the same point on both amps doesnt mean it is set to match the Head unit. If you were clipping the jl and didnt know it, it could have put out up to 1000 watts (though you would notice that). But it could still have been putting out more than it is rated at without you noticing. And if the gain is set wrong on the new amp, you could be putting out less than 600. The 500/1 has switchable input voltages. One of the settings is from 200mv-2v. If you were using that one at 3/4 gain, it would be sending a very strong signal from your hu.

The gain on the Cadence was maxed after i took it to the local shop, it still didn't hit as hard. The JL i know is set at 1 oclock, but I don't know how to tell if I'm clipping it, can you explain?

DO you have 1 RCA for each amp, or are you using a y splitter of one RCA Output? because splitting RCA will cause the V to be very low compared to what its actually sending..
-Im not sure what Arsen. you have but i have the HD59 model.. one of their higher end HD's, (so they say ROFL) and I have found the best way is to run the HZ wide open on its highest setting.. and let the Amp deal with the freq.. on its crossover..

I have the KD-A615, it puts out 5 volts through the sub output. I'm only using one amp, too.

 

[Immociide 10+ year member]

The wires are hooked up right, because it works.

there's 5 knobs and 2 switches:

Phase Shift: 0/180 (set at 0)

Input Gain: 9V-200mV (3/4 turn) With a 5 volt deck you are clipping it, that guy at the shop is an idiot.

Bass EQ: 0-12db (set at 11 oclock) Turn this to 0. It is bass boost, useless.

Subsonic: 10-50 (11 oclock) Try to visualize the numbers around the dial and set it to 20hz. If you are using a sealed box then it is not needed, usually.

Bass Focus: 0-7db (11 oclock) This adds low frequencies to your bass, supposedly for sealed boxes.... Im not sure exactly how it work so its up to you to do as you wish. To me it sounds like another bass boost just for lower freq. I would personally turn it off.

Low Pass: 50-250 (3/4 turn) Again visualize the numbers and turn it down to 80-100hz its probably around the 190 mark atm

Bridged Amplifier Mode: Master, Slave 1, Slave 2 (set to Master)

HU, on "sub", is set to "Sub Level: +4 (max = +8)" If this is like my headunit than it actually does control the "sub level" and is not a bass boost like most. Set this to 0 until you have your amp set properly.

 

[SilveyPuck08v2]

I recently got a new amp (Cadence ZRS7500d), and after hooking it up, the sub doesn't hit anywhere close to as hard as it did on the previous amp (JL 500/1). It's in the same box, same wires, same sub, but it doesn't like it used to. I've tried maxing the gains, and to get it closer to how it use to sound and excurt like it used to, my HU has to be set to "Loud: On". Any help?
Also, when the HU is set to "rear", it hits harder than when set to "sub"

maybe you should try running the RCA to the sub out instead of the rear out

 

[Immociide 10+ year member]

oh and turn loud off. All bass boost and "loud" does it heighten certain freqs.

Also check your ohm load. If i remember right the jl will put out full power at any ohm load. The Cadence will not.

 

[Bassin Buick]

System not hitting hard because you don't have one of these. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-classifieds/496175-fs-flux-capacitor.html

 

[SilveyPuck08v2]

System not hitting hard because you don't have one of these. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-classifieds/496175-fs-flux-capacitor.html

I love you. I pray that doesn't get locked before it matures, it could become epic.

 

[subzero 5,000+ posts]

maybe you should try running the RCA to the sub out instead of the rear out

He is. What he is saying is that the deck has a front preout and a rear/sub preout that has to be selected from the deck controls.

This makes sense that is would sound louder, because that is a full range sound vs. the sub preout sound range which is probly something like 160hz-80hz_30hz bottom.

Like Misfit Said, Take it to somebody that knows what they are doing.

Take it to someone who knows how to set up an amplifier.

Stay away from the guy that maxed out the gain.

 

[wannabang 10+ year member]

He is. What he is saying is that the deck has a front preout and a rear/sub preout that has to be selected from the deck controls.This makes sense that is would sound louder, because that is a full range sound vs. the sub preout sound range which is probly something like 160hz-80hz_30hz bottom.

Like Misfit Said, Take it to somebody that knows what they are doing.

Stay away from the guy that maxed out the gain.

Yeah, I turned it down, but if it wasn't hooked up to the sub out, wouldn't it have the same affect on the JL amp?

The wires are hooked up right, because it works.there's 5 knobs and 2 switches:

Phase Shift: 0/180 (set at 0)

Input Gain: 9V-200mV (3/4 turn) With a 5 volt deck you are clipping it, that guy at the shop is an idiot.

Bass EQ: 0-12db (set at 11 oclock) Turn this to 0. It is bass boost, useless.

Subsonic: 10-50 (11 oclock) Try to visualize the numbers around the dial and set it to 20hz. If you are using a sealed box then it is not needed, usually.

Bass Focus: 0-7db (11 oclock) This adds low frequencies to your bass, supposedly for sealed boxes.... Im not sure exactly how it work so its up to you to do as you wish. To me it sounds like another bass boost just for lower freq. I would personally turn it off.

Low Pass: 50-250 (3/4 turn) Again visualize the numbers and turn it down to 80-100hz its probably around the 190 mark atm

Bridged Amplifier Mode: Master, Slave 1, Slave 2 (set to Master)

HU, on "sub", is set to "Sub Level: +4 (max = +8)" If this is like my headunit than it actually does control the "sub level" and is not a bass boost like most. Set this to 0 until you have your amp set properly.

Guess I'll mess with the head unit controls: turn the sub level up, loud is off, and turn the EQ and Focus off on the Cadence.

New theory:

The JL Amp has a "section" of settings labeled: LP Filter

-Under this section is a switch labeled: 0, 12db, 24db (mine's on 24db) and the LP Filter knob (at ~180)

-To the right is a switch labeled: Input Voltage: Low, High; and I have it set on Low

-To the right of that is the gain knob (in. sens.) and I have it at a 1 oclock turn.

Could this be the reason that the JL is hitting harder than the Cadence? There are so many knobs and switches on this JL :/

Would a new sub at 2 ohms (1100 watts) make the Cadence do what it's meant to do?