Help matching Punch 60 with sub

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Johnyb3000

CarAudio.com Newbie
have a punch 60 from the early to mid 90's that was in my first system. Any suggestions for a sub or subs and box type that would work in the back of a 2008 4runner playing nine inch nails and Bela fleck and the flecktones as an example. Getting into diy after 25 years of owning pro installed systems. I am open-minded to a sealed enclosure or more complex bandpass style box as I am treating this as an experiment and learning experience in woodworking. Budget for the driver or drivers is flexible but lets say under 300. Thanks for the help.



Number of subs preferred:1 or 2

Size preferred (if configuration allows): open minded

Budget:300

Power to be used (which amp(s), include which resistance): 1994ish Punch60

Space available (take measurements, do not guess): back of 4runner

Goals: fun building my first enclosure

Listening habits: nine inch nails moderately loud as an example

Preferred brands/subs/whatever: open minded
 
have a punch 60 from the early to mid 90's that was in my first system. Any suggestions for a sub or subs and box type that would work in the back of a 2008 4runner playing nine inch nails and Bela fleck and the flecktones as an example. Getting into diy after 25 years of owning pro installed systems. I am open-minded to a sealed enclosure or more complex bandpass style box as I am treating this as an experiment and learning experience in woodworking. Budget for the driver or drivers is flexible but lets say under 300. Thanks for the help.



Number of subs preferred:1 or 2

Size preferred (if configuration allows): open minded

Budget:300

Power to be used (which amp(s), include which resistance): 1994ish Punch60

Space available (take measurements, do not guess): back of 4runner

Goals: fun building my first enclosure

Listening habits: nine inch nails moderately loud as an example

Preferred brands/subs/whatever: open minded
What’s that amp rated at bridged? 300 @ 2 ohms or somewhere around there or am I off? That was a long time ago.
 
What’s that amp rated at bridged? 300 @ 2 ohms or somewhere around there or am I off? That was a long time ago.
I am not sure if it goes to 2 ohms bridged judging on the info I have found. Looks like 280 at 4 ohms bridged is what the attached infographic for similar amp.
 

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I am not sure if it goes to 2 ohms bridged judging on the info I have found. Looks like 280 at 4 ohms bridged is what the attached infographic for similar amp.
Ok some of those older amps could handle a lower ohm load bridged. That’s not much power these days. You sure you don’t want to use it on mids and or highs? Mono amps are pretty cheap these days. Less and less lower power handling subs to choose from.
even a 6/800 watt amp would get you more options.
A couple of sundown lcs 12s on 600 to 1.2k would work. They may have some left in their yard sale may. 45$ a sub. You’d need a 1ohm stable amp. Spend the savings on an amp. Just a thought
 
And for fun pictures of t
Ok some of those older amps could handle a lower ohm load bridged. That’s not much power these days. You sure you don’t want to use it on mids and or highs? Mono amps are pretty cheap these days. Less and less lower power handling subs to choose from.
even a 6/800 watt amp would get you more options.
A couple of sundown lcs 12s on 600 to 1.2k would work. They may have some left in their yard sale may. 45$ a sub. You’d need a 1ohm stable amp. Spend the savings on an amp. Just a thought
I agree that it is not clear where this amp fits into the current audio landscape. Maybe I should of worded the original post "help me find a reason to install this amp". I was thinking about running an active tweeter and 6.5" up front off of a 4 channel class d amp. I could run tweeters off of 2 channels and rear doors off of the other 2 then the punch 60 for the front mids.
 

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And for fun pictures of t

I agree that it is not clear where this amp fits into the current audio landscape. Maybe I should of worded the original post "help me find a reason to install this amp". I was thinking about running an active tweeter and 6.5" up front off of a 4 channel class d amp. I could run tweeters off of 2 channels and rear doors off of the other 2 then the punch 60 for the front mids.
Personally if I had it and your vehicle I’d run tweeters on the 60. It’s not a very efficient amp and it doesn’t take much power at all on a pair of tweeters Then I’d probably use a 4 channel bridged to the mids. All active no passive crossovers. Either through an active head unit or a dsp.
Subs you would probably be fine with a efficient amp up to 1k ish on stock electric and just do the big 3. You could run less power. personally I wouldn’t do less than 600. If it’s your first box I’d do ported. I wouldn’t try band pass for my first box anyway.
I’d forget rears they went out while you were gone. You’ll have a better sound stage with fronts only.
if you went less power you could use a five channel amp run it 3 channel mode for mids and sub. Build a nice efficient box for your sub/subs and it would still be enough bass you could feel and be fun ya know.
 
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Johnyb3000

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