Help!!!!!!!!!!!! Low wattage single 12" green amp light pulsing/protect mode

[JessyBoy86]

Could someone answer that question? If I'm not blowing any fuses now, how would upgrading to a larger fuse benefit me in this problem? Sub still isn't working. Probably gonna **** with it after school

Upgrading to a bigger fuse won't do anything good....go with the fusing your amp is rated at.

it's like using a defect tool on a 15A breaker in your house and the breaker keeps failing....you could put a 30A breaker in but it won't solve the problem where it is and you might end up totaly frying your tool or setting something on fire.

I'm clearly not a car audio specialist but that's kind of obvious to me. You must have a short somewhere...

 

[dbjunior 10+ year member]

First you always fuse for the wires rated safe current load. Second I've had fuses go bad that still look good so a new fuse is a good idea. Have you done the big 3 If not look into it, being a dual battery setup you might need more than just 3 wires for your big 3. This is definitely a power issue. With the rca's unplugged it does not protect because it's not trying to produce any power once the rca's are plugged in even at a small signal it needs more power than it is getting. Tripple check all power connections and replace the fuse at the battery and check back.

 

[SamuelCwach]

I am not a car audio specialist either but I am certainly not dumb lmao but yeah I'm going to be trying to fix it tonight

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Try pushing your sub down with the rca cables unplugged and the amp on. If the amp protects you have a bad sub.

Try wiggling the power and ground connections on the amp. Sometime the solder fails and vibrations cause issues

First replace the fuses with factory sizes. A 30 amp fuse on a 300w amp sounds right anymore and you risk frying your amp.

On the power cable with 4 awg you can use up to a 150amp fuse if it is ofc and 100amp if it is copper clad aluminum.

The ground cable should be changed since to 4 awg as well.

Likely hood is either the amp has a loose internal connection or the subs tensile leads are torn from over excursion.

 

[SamuelCwach]

I did the 4 gauge ground. I re sottered the audio wire inside the sub with new 14 gauge speaker wire. Still haven't changed the 100 amp up front by battery. Sub is off lpf or whatever sends vocal through sub, amp is turned all the way up nearly, the sub is working, no fuses being blown, just barley goes on protect. When I turn the crossover on, (sub usually sounded the best with on) nearly an instant protect mode, or just the green light flickering then the amp shutting down and re powering up. Really would like it have it working correctly.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

IF that is repeatable the amp goes into protect just by changing x-over, then it's bad amp.

When alt went out, possible you undervolted it and damaged it.

Also, on original post when you said you used multimeter to test ohms across power and ground and it shut off......

You NEVER EVER EVER check ohm on a LIVE circuit.. EVER...

Multimeters measure RESISTANCE, not impedance.

 

[Pitlizard]

Ok so I've read everything y'all said and it seems like the only thing that hasn't been swapped out is the actual subwoofer. If u have a spare cheap sub to connect to your amp to see if the sAme thing is happening. If in fact the problem stops I believe that it's something wrong with the sub. Not your wiring or your amp. The amp goes into protect mode when over heating or shorting out. Could be in your voice coils of ur sub. Which u can still being two ohms and when u run your sub that's when the short is occurring

 

[Pitlizard]

I had a Sony explode 10" sub blow and it blew the fuse in my amp. Only I never at that time had an amp with protect mode. Is your sub a svc or a dvc 2 ohm? I think the wire binding in your subs voice coil or coils has come free and is shorting out. My understanding of amplifiers is that protect mode protects your amp components by using a resister between your speaker terminals and the rest of your amp. Your fuses protect your amp from a short from your 12v in and the rest of your system. So with that said. The problem is not in your 12v but is with wat u have hooked up to your amp. So now ruling out the amplifier back to your battery as not being the problem, that leaves wires to sub and all other wiring that may be in your sub box and wiring inside your sub itself. I would check it out bro. You just never know.