Help! Kicker ZX1500.1 now playing 1/2 volume

[infowarrior45 10+ year member]

Hello,

I have a Kicker ZX1500.1 amp that is running 2 12" Treo SSi's. It has been working beautifully since I hooked it up last week. I was playing with the crossover and the bass boost on the amp a little today, and it was still working fine. All of a sudden, after I had made my adjustments, the subs started to cut out, and then the amp went off (it wasn't super hot, and the protection light never went on). I shut the car off, checked all the power connections, and started it back up. The amp kicked back on, but now my system only gets about half as loud if that. The sound is good, but the power is reduced incredibly. The difference is very noticeable. I have no clue what my problem could be. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

Click to read more...

 

[infowarrior45 10+ year member]

Someone's gotta have an idea. Just a hint on what to start looking at would be appreciated!

 

[joeyloks1]

I would check the fuse holder. Had the same problem with my treo ssx amp and ended up being power cable a little loose to the fuse holder.

 

[infowarrior45 10+ year member]

Thanks...I'll check into that. Hoping it's something with connections and not the amp itself. Like I said, the amp puts out a nice, clean sound, just with a ton less punch.

 

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

are you sure you didnt change any EQ settings on the headunit? Like maybe its on Vocal, instead of super bass or custom.

Like I said.. if all the settings on amp and HU are the same, this usually comes down to fuses/connections or the amp itself.. Lets not forget your using a used amp under the factory rated ohms.

Who knows if the previous owner ran the amp at .5 ohms for 3 years straight until it started cutting out then sold it.

never forget to check grounds.. 90% of the time a bad ground is the culprit of alot of problems like these

 

[infowarrior45 10+ year member]

Ok, well I checked all connections, and they are good. Problem still remains. The only thing I haven't done is replace the fuse itself, but it looks just fine.

The HU settings are all the same. When I had the amp on 1/4 gain, and flat on the equalizer, it would shake my mirror. Now I can't even tell it apart from the bass in the door speakers. I am currently running it at the factory recommended 2 ohms....not under. Not sure about the original owner.

Here's the thing. The problem started after I had set the amp on the box while the subs were on (for less than a minute) to arrange some wires. Yes, dumb I know, but I didn't think it would be a problem. The only thing I could guess was that a vibration from the subs shook something loose (in the amp maybe?). Other than that I had been playing with the crossover and bass boost on the amp.

There's gotta be something I can check with a DMM to verify whether it's the power wires or the amp. If it is the amp, I would imagine it would be repairable.

 

[myjaja 10+ year member]

Ok, well I checked all connections, and they are good. Problem still remains. The only thing I haven't done is replace the fuse itself, but it looks just fine.
The HU settings are all the same. When I had the amp on 1/4 gain, and flat on the equalizer, it would shake my mirror. Now I can't even tell it apart from the bass in the door speakers. I am currently running it at the factory recommended 2 ohms....not under. Not sure about the original owner.

Here's the thing. The problem started after I had set the amp on the box while the subs were on (for less than a minute) to arrange some wires. Yes, dumb I know, but I didn't think it would be a problem. The only thing I could guess was that a vibration from the subs shook something loose (in the amp maybe?). Other than that I had been playing with the crossover and bass boost on the amp.

There's gotta be something I can check with a DMM to verify whether it's the power wires or the amp. If it is the amp, I would imagine it would be repairable.

A lot of times the fuse could look good but it really isnt. Try replacing it.. Also, did you turn down the bass boost?

 

[infowarrior45 10+ year member]

Thanks, I really hope it's the fuse. Not sure where to get a mini-ANL fuse local. Yeah, the bass boost is all the way down right now. I really don't like it turned up.

I was also thinking that I maybe shook loose one of the output transistors or power supply transistors? I opened up the amp, and didn't see anything obviously loose or broken, but I'm not that much of a techie.

Final thing....there must be a way to check my power and ground cables with a DMM to verify they are getting good power?

 

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

Oh. I dont know why I was under the impression you were running this amp at 1 ohm. I thought you had said that, my bad.

Final thing....there must be a way to check my power and ground cables with a DMM to verify they are getting good power?

Well, not really, I suppose you could try matching the reading from the power and ground terminals at your amp vs your battery, and the closer the better. but..

There shouldnt really be any reason that your power cable would all of a sudden not be supplying power unless it is shorted somewhere (probly not the case since you just run the cable, wouldnt have time to cut) or the fuse is bad, or the battery/alt.. but again, thats most likely not your case.

Is there a way you can run your power cable to your battery straight up with no fuse for a minute to see if that fixes the situation temporarily?

You cant really rely on a DMM to tell if your ground is good.. it can sometimes help you while finding a new ground though (measure resistance)

my vote still stands as amp fault or fuse.. is there anyway you can rule them out (swap with a buddies amp quick, or remove the fuse holder temporarily)

 

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

Oh. I dont know why I was under the impression you were running this amp at 1 ohm. I thought you had said that, my bad.

Final thing....there must be a way to check my power and ground cables with a DMM to verify they are getting good power?

Well, not really, I suppose you could try matching the reading from the power and ground terminals at your amp vs your battery, and the closer the better. but..

There shouldnt really be any reason that your power cable would all of a sudden not be supplying power unless it is shorted somewhere (probly not the case since you just run the cable, wouldnt have time to cut) or the fuse is bad, or the battery/alt.. but again, thats most likely not your case.

Is there a way you can run your power cable to your battery straight up with no fuse for a minute to see if that fixes the situation temporarily?

You cant really rely on a DMM to tell if your ground is good.. it can sometimes help you while finding a new ground though (measure resistance)

my vote still stands as amp fault or fuse.. is there anyway you can rule them out (swap with a buddies amp quick, or remove the fuse holder temporarily)

 

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

Also, kicker amps have a button on them for "hi" and "lo" input level. Did you change that to LO? Try pressing it if you haven't already. This is located right next to the RCA input on the amp

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

sounds like a bad fuse. When i had my kicker zx750.1 , i blew my fuse and everything got much lower! changed it and back to boomin!

 

[infowarrior45 10+ year member]

Thanks guys! Really hoping it is the fuse. I'll let you know tomorrow. Is it a bad idea to bypass the fuse and go direct to the battery for a test? Otherwise I'll just wait and order some mini-ANL fuses online. Don't have any big electronics stores around.

Finally, the Kicker amp recommends a 150 amp fuse, and I have a 120 amp fuse that came with the amp wiring kit. Should I get 150 amp replacement fuses?

 

[infowarrior45 10+ year member]

Thanks guys! Really hoping it is the fuse. I'll let you know tomorrow. Is it a bad idea to bypass the fuse and go direct to the battery for a test? Otherwise I'll just wait and order some mini-ANL fuses online. Don't have any big electronics stores around.

Finally, the Kicker amp recommends a 150 amp fuse, and I have a 120 amp fuse that came with the amp wiring kit. Should I get 150 amp replacement fuses?

 

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

Thanks guys! Really hoping it is the fuse. I'll let you know tomorrow. Is it a bad idea to bypass the fuse and go direct to the battery for a test? Otherwise I'll just wait and order some mini-ANL fuses online. Don't have any big electronics stores around.
Finally, the Kicker amp recommends a 150 amp fuse, and I have a 120 amp fuse that came with the amp wiring kit. Should I get 150 amp replacement fuses?

Yes, get a 150. Order from knu tonight, they ship fast to MN.

and yes it will be safe to test powering your amp without the fuse for a few seconds to test if it works. We are talking about the inline fuse going to your battery here. Don't drive around like that though