Headlight dimming

[JarodM]

no, not "clipping it to hell". But I suppose I wasn't clear enough. When I said max I didn't mean max as in everything turned up as high as it can go. I meant the max of my system which I have determined as being the highest I can turn up my system without clipping, distorting, etc.

 

[JarodM]

I disagree. There's simply a lot of current demand over a very short period of time and the alt is unable to respond quickly enough to avoid a little voltage drop.
I don't see it as a "problem" as much as just a symptom of a high output sound system.

Ever since I got to the ~1000w rms range (~10 yrs ago) I've never had headlights that didn't dim at least a little at high volume -- with amps set to never clip.

I don't blast it all that often, and even less often at night, so I never bothered trying to correct it.

This is where I'm at. I have been in discussion with a technician about my issue. we have been over every single thing possible and I'm still having the dimming. But after trying and thinking about it for a while now, I only very rarely listen to it at that level, maybe one song or showing off to friends. At that point I will simply not have my lights and extras on and listening to my stereo at my normal driving, even slightly elevated, listening level I have no dimming issues.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

What did you use to determine max volume? Do you have any boost on? EQ boosted or dirty recorded music. Is you ground good? Does it only dim at idle?

 

[JarodM]

My max volume was determined by simply turning the head unit up to 3/4ths of its max volume and adjusting my amps gains up to right before clipping, with an oscilloscope, at that volume. I have no boost on and it was done with a 50hz tone I got from MTX. Ground is solid and they dim at all RPM.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Some headlights dim at .1V drop. Unavoidable if that's the case. You have no voltage measurements to go off of, so there's really no helping you here other than saying turn it down, buy HIDs, or put a cap inline with the headlights (which may or may not fix it).

 

[cas0586]

No don't use HIDs unless you have a proper HID projector retrofit. You are solving your problem and creating hazard for others.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

My max volume was determined by simply turning the head unit up to 3/4ths of its max volume and adjusting my amps gains up to right before clipping, with an oscilloscope, at that volume. I have no boost on and it was done with a 50hz tone I got from MTX. Ground is solid and they dim at all RPM.

You need to put a decent multi meter on the amp terminals and run it hard to record what's actually happening.

 

[negolien]

I disagree. There's simply a lot of current demand over a very short period of time and the alt is unable to respond quickly enough to avoid a little voltage drop.
I don't see it as a "problem" as much as just a symptom of a high output sound system.

Ever since I got to the ~1000w rms range (~10 yrs ago) I've never had headlights that didn't dim at least a little at high volume -- with amps set to never clip.

I don't blast it all that often, and even less often at night, so I never bothered trying to correct it.

LOFL Dude just stop I don't even know what to say about that post. I' am running 2600rms with no dimming at all at night with full a/c, everything possible on and pounding 3/4ths volume. Dimming lights doesn't = an awesome sound system that's probably one of the silliest things I have heard on here to date /snicker.

 

[GPcarAudio.com Pro Seller]

A lot of people do not realize this but many horrible dimming lights issues is cause from insufficient grounding. I'll post the article.

 

[GPcarAudio.com Pro Seller]

GP tip: Are you getting the most out of what you currently have?

Solving insufficient grounding:

To some of you this may be novice, but in my time I have seen this method used rarely.

Start your car and use a dmm to read what that voltage says directly off the front battery.

Lets say it says 14.4v (car running on the underhood battery, stereo not on)

Now go back to the rear battery, or if no rear battery directly to your amp.

Touch the positive of the dmm to the positive post of the battery (or positive input on amp), and then take the negitive wire on the dmm and touch the current ground you are using, if it says anything less than what your underhood battery says (14.4v in our example) than you have insufficient grounding.

So lets say you do this, your underhood battery says example 14.4v, and when you go back to the read the rear voltage of the battery/ and or amp it is says 13.5v, you are loosing out on almost a full volt of power, and in the 12v world, 13 to 14 volts can be a significant percentage.

So now its time to locate a new ground, again Using the DMM, holding the positive on the dmm to the positive on battery/ amp input,

With the negitive on the DMM search for a new grounding location,

once you find a ground that reads 14.4 you know your in a spot that will discharge properly.

This method ensures your voltage is lined up perfectly with the underhood battery, one of the few steps to ensure the best in voltage stability and getting the most out of your equipment.

So what are you waiting for! Go see how your voltage lines up from front to back and let us know your results!

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

A lot of people do not realize this but many horrible dimming lights issues is cause from insufficient grounding. I'll post the article.

Sorry bro, makes no sense. Bad grounds at your amps would actually help the system voltage up front.