Head unit and rear fill speaker recomendation 2013 Nissan Sentra

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Also remember absolutly no tweeters for rear fill ....with over 100 first place car audio trophies I must be doing something right

 

[deanster]

Wowzer! Great responses! So an update...

...Next week getting a Pioneer AVH-2550NEX Head unit install.
Plan on using my factory speakers next few weeks, but have plans to upgrade via adding the front speakers listed below, and adding a sub package with enclosure and amp,

Dual 8" 1,400 Watt SDR Series Complete Subwoofer Package with Vented Enclosure and Amplifier
(mostly listen to punk, hard rock, and garage rock, So I really dont need mega sub bass)
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/...8-inch-complete-bass-package-subwoofer-system

165 V20 - Focal 6.5" 70W RMS Polyglass Series 2-Way Component Speakers OM System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010C1SOW2/?tag=caraudiocom-20

I plan to continue to use the factory 6x9 speakers for rear fill and have em powered by the head unit, I'll wanna use external amplification for the Focals up front, any recommendations for a 2 channel amp roughly 50 to 70 watts?

Would the crossover built into the Pioneer head unit suffice over the crossovers built into the amps.

Sorry, kinda outta the loop, would I also need the big 3 that you all recommend?

Help a me outs! Thanks!

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Wowzer! Great responses! So an update...

...Next week getting a Pioneer AVH-2550NEX Head unit install.
Plan on using my factory speakers next few weeks, but have plans to upgrade via adding the front speakers listed below, and adding a sub package with enclosure and amp,

Dual 8" 1,400 Watt SDR Series Complete Subwoofer Package with Vented Enclosure and Amplifier
(mostly listen to punk, hard rock, and garage rock, So I really dont need mega sub bass)
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/...8-inch-complete-bass-package-subwoofer-system

165 V20 - Focal 6.5" 70W RMS Polyglass Series 2-Way Component Speakers OM System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010C1SOW2/?tag=caraudiocom-20

I plan to continue to use the factory 6x9 speakers for rear fill and have em powered by the head unit, I'll wanna use external amplification for the Focals up front, any recommendations for a 2 channel amp roughly 50 to 70 watts?

Would the crossover built into the Pioneer head unit suffice over the crossovers built into the amps.

Sorry, kinda outta the loop, would I also need the big 3 that you all recommend?

Help a me outs! Thanks!

I would Still Recommend getting THE BIG3 done in 0ga OFC. I would cover/ and cap off the rear deck speakers from getting damaged from the subs air pressure pushing on the rear speaker cones.Can be done with a little work with 3/8" or even 1/4' plywood and some L brackets and a little time using some cardboard to cut and use as templets. This is a pretty decent little 2 ch amplifier Ive installed on some front stages and does very well for as little as it cost.

https://bigjeffaudio.com/products/avatar-2-channel-class-ab-200-watt-black-amplifier-buran-series-abr-200-2?variant=40069376016543&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAjw3POhBhBQEiwAqTCuBlPJJUyggj9RZEEjMFQgBPV1mvu9Xh1qWA8gNszUErRZSGt97kRjjBoCRjwQAvD_BwE

 

[deanster]

Would that Big Jeffs amp be too much power for the focals? Their max rms is 70 watts.

 

[deanster]

thoughts on the 2 channel version powering the focals?

JBL Stage A6002 2-Channel 50W X 2 Full Range Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5LDGJF/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Would that Big Jeffs amp be too much power for the focals? Their max rms is 70 watts.

That amp will work very nicely tuned properly and run those speakers very well

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Would that Big Jeffs amp be too much power for the focals? Their max rms is 70 watts.

Ive even put this amplifier on 5.25 60-90 rms and up to 125 rms 6.5s as well as Coax speakers, and even on 40RMS + tweeters and have ran on 6.5-8" mids @2ohms. Great little 2ch amp

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

thoughts on the 2 channel version powering the focals?

JBL Stage A6002 2-Channel 50W X 2 Full Range Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5LDGJF/?tag=caraudiocom-20

I myself would only run that amp on a set of tweeters or in a boat placed away from moisture

 

[HardofWhoring]

That jbl amp will work just fine. FYI, you could go a hair higher on wattage, 70-80 wouldn't be a problem. You might miss a decibal or two at full volume. (That shouldn't matter).


THERE'S NO WAY IN HELL, you are playing those subs on your factory alt for the long term. (I read DUAL, and thought oh come on)..

You did see that the subs alone are also on there:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V2NFXZ7/?tag=caraudiocom-20 $169, without the amp, but that amp package will work great for those. You can then buy the amp from skar for $127. They will still ship the amp for free, and you can save yourself $47 buying them separately. (JUST LOOKED BACK, AND MISSED THAT THE PACKAGE COMES WITH WIRING. SO IT'S PROBABLY ABOUT EVEN).

Back to your alt: that amp is rated higher than listed at 906w x 1 RMS @ 1ohm (https://www.skaraudio.com/products/rp-800-1d-car-amplifier ) and 90% efficient.
906w / .9 = 1006 watts amp draw. Then divide by voltage 14.4v = 69.9 amp draw, (plus your other amp which is about 10amps). You will definitely NEED to do the big 3.

You should have a 105 amp factory alt. You don't NEED to do it right away, but when you play your stereo, and your headlights dim is usually the easiest sign, then your circuit is too small: the battery (including it's wiring/big 3), your wiring, your connections, something need to be upgraded for the larger draw.

When you play your stereo, and your voltage starts to drop over time, your alternator is not keeping up. It's not able to recharge at a rate equal to or greater than what you are using. I would bet it would take about an hour to two hours at full volume of heavy bass music, with your factory 105 alt to drop your battery below unusable. Unusable meaning, you are not going to want to use your vehicle's electronics like windows, headlights, and eventually when it gets way to the bottom, you won't have any power for fuel injection and your ECU. Long before that it will drop below 12v, and then you might not be able to get it restarted. If it drops that low, you will want to turn the stereo off, and drive a while until it recharges. Doing that is also not good for your factory similar battery. Maybe you can hold out while you search for a deal on an alternator, but when you put that in, it's going to eat at you to play it.

With this setup, until you upgrade the alt, you will be restricted to playing it what I would guess is about 1/2 the time you are driving, (because you will need to let it recharge OR JUST TURN IT DOWN), to keep your battery from dropping to low.

Until you do get an alt, I would keep a real close eye on your battery voltage. If you're not someone that checks your gauges, take a glance at least every minute, and see how long at full volume, with your headlights AND AC on. If you charge a phone or use the cig lighter, or any other plug-ins you might have, get those goin too, really try to find the max limits. If your vehicle has electric engine fans, the: weather, stop and go traffic, and the AC should turn those on (since those are the biggest power draw in a vehicle), and see how long it takes for it to drop to 13v. Then see how long it takes for you to turn it off and go from 13 up to 14ish volts. Then do it again from 14V to 12V and back up to 14v. That should help you plan better to get your voltage back up before you shut it off. I would also turn the stereo off, and let the battery voltage get up to 13v or more before shutting the vehicle off every time. There's some wiggle room, but this should help you know what you need to be aware of, until it's upgraded and make sure you can start back up next time.

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

In my opinion, factory wiring should be sufficient for the factory alternator at full load or else we would have fires and there would be lawsuits up the azz. Grounds too. Doing the big three on factory alternators won’t hurt, but it’s not going to create any miracles either

 

[deanster]

That jbl amp will work just fine. FYI, you could go a hair higher on wattage, 70-80 wouldn't be a problem. You might miss a decibal or two at full volume. (That shouldn't matter).


THERE'S NO WAY IN HELL, you are playing those subs on your factory alt for the long term. (I read DUAL, and thought oh come on)..

You did see that the subs alone are also on there:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V2NFXZ7/?tag=caraudiocom-20 $169, without the amp, but that amp package will work great for those. You can then buy the amp from skar for $127. They will still ship the amp for free, and you can save yourself $47 buying them separately. (JUST LOOKED BACK, AND MISSED THAT THE PACKAGE COMES WITH WIRING. SO IT'S PROBABLY ABOUT EVEN).

Back to your alt: that amp is rated higher than listed at 906w x 1 RMS @ 1ohm (https://www.skaraudio.com/products/rp-800-1d-car-amplifier ) and 90% efficient.
906w / .9 = 1006 watts amp draw. Then divide by voltage 14.4v = 69.9 amp draw, (plus your other amp which is about 10amps). You will definitely NEED to do the big 3.

You should have a 105 amp factory alt. You don't NEED to do it right away, but when you play your stereo, and your headlights dim is usually the easiest sign, then your circuit is too small: the battery (including it's wiring/big 3), your wiring, your connections, something need to be upgraded for the larger draw.

When you play your stereo, and your voltage starts to drop over time, your alternator is not keeping up. It's not able to recharge at a rate equal to or greater than what you are using. I would bet it would take about an hour to two hours at full volume of heavy bass music, with your factory 105 alt to drop your battery below unusable. Unusable meaning, you are not going to want to use your vehicle's electronics like windows, headlights, and eventually when it gets way to the bottom, you won't have any power for fuel injection and your ECU. Long before that it will drop below 12v, and then you might not be able to get it restarted. If it drops that low, you will want to turn the stereo off, and drive a while until it recharges. Doing that is also not good for your factory similar battery. Maybe you can hold out while you search for a deal on an alternator, but when you put that in, it's going to eat at you to play it.

With this setup, until you upgrade the alt, you will be restricted to playing it what I would guess is about 1/2 the time you are driving, (because you will need to let it recharge OR JUST TURN IT DOWN), to keep your battery from dropping to low.

Until you do get an alt, I would keep a real close eye on your battery voltage. If you're not someone that checks your gauges, take a glance at least every minute, and see how long at full volume, with your headlights AND AC on. If you charge a phone or use the cig lighter, or any other plug-ins you might have, get those goin too, really try to find the max limits. If your vehicle has electric engine fans, the: weather, stop and go traffic, and the AC should turn those on (since those are the biggest power draw in a vehicle), and see how long it takes for it to drop to 13v. Then see how long it takes for you to turn it off and go from 13 up to 14ish volts. Then do it again from 14V to 12V and back up to 14v. That should help you plan better to get your voltage back up before you shut it off. I would also turn the stereo off, and let the battery voltage get up to 13v or more before shutting the vehicle off every time. There's some wiggle room, but this should help you know what you need to be aware of, until it's upgraded and make sure you can start back up next time.

Thanks so much for the great info!