Grounding second battery, questions

[skadude016 5,000+ posts]

make sure all your power and ground wire is in 1/0 gauge

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

4 guage wont be enough for a ground? okay will sacrifice my wee bit of extra 1/0 guage then...... think i got like 6 feet left

 

[skadude016 5,000+ posts]

4 guage wont be enough for a ground? okay will sacrifice my wee bit of extra 1/0 guage then...... think i got like 6 feet left

if your power wire is 1/0 then your ground should be 1/0 too

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

kk thanks

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

Ground should always be the same if not bigger than +

 

[the727kid 10+ year member]

I grounded in my trunk. But I am curious to as if grounding to my main battery is better since I am going to be running a quite hefty set up.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

pos to pos neg to neg on the batteries is as good as it gets....

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

pos to pos neg to neg on the batteries is as good as it gets....

That would require a lot of wire. Because of that, to save wire, i ground my second battery that's in the trunk... to the trunk.

what is the benefit of wiring them parallel?

 

[SPL140.2 5,000+ posts]

grounding from trunk is alright //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif just make sure your ground locations are sanded and cleaned.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

JL audio, before they even sold wiring, tested a bunch of vehicles in regards to the conductive quality of the vehicle chassis (all vehicles have a chassis not all have a frame). Most unibody vehicles had the conductive properties of 4ga wire. If your main power wire only needs to be 4ga, then you are probably fine with a normal chassis ground. If you are running a bigger setup than that and are bothering with a 1/0 or so power wire, a chassis ground is going to be the weak link in your electrical supply system.

There is a general misconception that the chassis is the vehicle ground. This is plain and simple not the case. The chassis is connected to ground but because it has resistance of its own it is not true ground. The definiton of ground is a point of zero potential. The only part of the car that fits that definiton is the negative post of the battery with the car off and the case (typically) of the alternator with the car on. If you've done a proper "big 3" upgrade, the difference in potential between those two points should be immeasurable and they can be considered as the same from an electrical standpoint.

 

[the727kid 10+ year member]

pos to pos neg to neg on the batteries is as good as it gets....

Now is it worht the extra $60 and time to do it?

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

You've got over $2k in amplification and you're quibbling about $60 to get the most out of them...

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

You've got over $2k in amplification and you're quibbling about $60 to get the most out of them...

lol yup when it gets to a point either just do it right or dont do it at all......

 

[the727kid 10+ year member]

You've got over $2k in amplification and you're quibbling about $60 to get the most out of them...

Not really worried about the money. Just seeing if it is worth it. If it didn't make a difference, why spend $60 when i can spend $5 ya kno? I will prob end up doing it anyways specially with my new setup coming.