Good Amps??

[matt_bennett05 10+ year member]

IF i passed it, let me know. But what coils are those subs? Dual 6? Dual 4? Single? I honestly can't say I know JL at all...

 

[Fiendstolemyamp 10+ year member]

If you want a new amp that isn't too expensive & they are w6v1's you could just run them @ 1 ohm & get this AQ1200D Amplifier. The AQ's are solid.

 

[BnGRacing 10+ year member]

12W6v2's were never dual 6ohm...it's probably a good idea to figure out what subs you have BEFORE you go amp shopping.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

He has the old school w6s which are iindeed dual 6 ohm. He's on the right track with ohms

 

[ricoshay 10+ year member]

i have a jl 1000/1 for $400 shipped in the classifeds...may take partial trades.pm me if interested.

 

[ricoshay 10+ year member]

correction i didnt post it here..

but pm me if interested.

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Any brand name that's price is .75-1.00 per watt.... (/////Alpine, JL, Rockford, etc...). If you're getting 1000 watts for 300.00, you're buying junk. Make sure you use big power cable.

Don't know if you've noticed or not but it's not the 90's anymore.

 

[BnGRacing 10+ year member]

He has the old school w6s which are iindeed dual 6 ohm. He's on the right track with ohms

Then he should try to find an old 2ch PPI and run those subs at 4ohm.

Running those old W6's at 1ohm will blow up modern 1ohm stable amps and they blew up a lot older 'overbuilt' amps too. The problem with the W6 was the amount of emf they produced would smoke the outputs of a lot of amps. Back in the day the reason for the dual 6ohm coils is so you can run 3 of them at a 4ohm load without much worries. Going below that? Not many amps could handle 1ohm for any length of time.

I'm trying to remember where the impedance starts to really dip, think it's north of 50hz. Sounds crazy but that's one of their quirks and you "might" get away with 1ohm if you cross them over REALLY low. But if you're doing that, what's the point? Stillwater made some cool stuff back in the day, but they had their faults. I remember the box rise of the old Solobarics would skyrocket above 30ohm and is why amps never got hot running them (at least Class AB amps).

Neat subs, sound great, but they have their faults. I'd also use a subsonic of some sort as lower freq. & a lot of power will cause the old W6's to 'bottom out'. If you gently push on the cone you can even feel where they bottom out. Later JL subs featured an extended back plate; aka "bottomless design".

If it were me, I'd keep it old school and find a 600w or so PPI 2ch amp. That combo sounded awesome in the 90's and will sound awesome today. More importantly, it'll sound better than some cheap $200 Chinese amp with a 2000w sticker on it. If you're looking for a more modern amp, I'd think about the JL 500/1. The power handling of the old W6's are the same as the W3v1's. Only difference is the back plate.

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

Don't know if you've noticed or not but it's not the 90's anymore.

Good amplifiers sold for MORE than $1 per watt in the early 90s. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

yah, i remember that, you were lucky to get a good amp on sale for under $1/watt, but now, about close to 15-20cents per is usually good, save for sale prices......look in the amp classifieds on here, i know there is a pair of xenon 1200.1's for sale, and those are pretty awesome line of amps, and operate pretty much like the jl amps for load detection, but have a much more reliable controll circuitry than jl. i won't touch a newer jl amp for repair. there was just a big close-out sale on soundstream amps dirt cheap that might still be going on, and, if i was at home right now, i owuld offer up my t5001bd, which i know will do .9ohm daily at about 1200rms..