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<blockquote data-quote="BnGRacing" data-source="post: 7490421" data-attributes="member: 557400">Then he should try to find an old 2ch PPI and run those subs at 4ohm.Running those old W6&#039;s at 1ohm will blow up modern 1ohm stable amps and they blew up a lot older &#039;overbuilt&#039; amps too. The problem with the W6 was the amount of emf they produced would smoke the outputs of a lot of amps. Back in the day the reason for the dual 6ohm coils is so you can run 3 of them at a 4ohm load without much worries. Going below that? Not many amps could handle 1ohm for any length of time.I&#039;m trying to remember where the impedance starts to really dip, think it&#039;s north of 50hz. Sounds crazy but that&#039;s one of their quirks and you &quot;might&quot; get away with 1ohm if you cross them over REALLY low. But if you&#039;re doing that, what&#039;s the point? Stillwater made some cool stuff back in the day, but they had their faults. I remember the box rise of the old Solobarics would skyrocket above 30ohm and is why amps never got hot running them (at least Class AB amps).Neat subs, sound great, but they have their faults. I&#039;d also use a subsonic of some sort as lower freq. &amp;amp; a lot of power will cause the old W6&#039;s to &#039;bottom out&#039;. If you gently push on the cone you can even feel where they bottom out. Later JL subs featured an extended back plate; aka &quot;bottomless design&quot;.If it were me, I&#039;d keep it old school and find a 600w or so PPI 2ch amp. That combo sounded awesome in the 90&#039;s and will sound awesome today. More importantly, it&#039;ll sound better than some cheap $200 Chinese amp with a 2000w sticker on it. If you&#039;re looking for a more modern amp, I&#039;d think about the JL 500/1. The power handling of the old W6&#039;s are the same as the W3v1&#039;s. Only difference is the back plate.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="BnGRacing, post: 7490421, member: 557400"] Then he should try to find an old 2ch PPI and run those subs at 4ohm. Running those old W6's at 1ohm will blow up modern 1ohm stable amps and they blew up a lot older 'overbuilt' amps too. The problem with the W6 was the amount of emf they produced would smoke the outputs of a lot of amps. Back in the day the reason for the dual 6ohm coils is so you can run 3 of them at a 4ohm load without much worries. Going below that? Not many amps could handle 1ohm for any length of time. I'm trying to remember where the impedance starts to really dip, think it's north of 50hz. Sounds crazy but that's one of their quirks and you "might" get away with 1ohm if you cross them over REALLY low. But if you're doing that, what's the point? Stillwater made some cool stuff back in the day, but they had their faults. I remember the box rise of the old Solobarics would skyrocket above 30ohm and is why amps never got hot running them (at least Class AB amps). Neat subs, sound great, but they have their faults. I'd also use a subsonic of some sort as lower freq. & a lot of power will cause the old W6's to 'bottom out'. If you gently push on the cone you can even feel where they bottom out. Later JL subs featured an extended back plate; aka "bottomless design". If it were me, I'd keep it old school and find a 600w or so PPI 2ch amp. That combo sounded awesome in the 90's and will sound awesome today. More importantly, it'll sound better than some cheap $200 Chinese amp with a 2000w sticker on it. If you're looking for a more modern amp, I'd think about the JL 500/1. The power handling of the old W6's are the same as the W3v1's. Only difference is the back plate. [/QUOTE]

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