Going active with the 9887

[nismos14 5,000+ posts]

Thinking of doing the same thing KRISFNBZ is doing and switching my 9813 out.
1.) Does the 9861 run active? or would i need the H-701 for that

2.) What is the big advantage of active? Is it really that great?

3.) My system is as follows right now....

Front Stage: CDT 6.5 comps (think CLA-61's)

Front Amp: Eclipse 36401 (60wx4 @ 2ohm; 40wX4 @4ohm)

Currently bridged to 2 channels.

Sub: 2 JL Audio 10''...soon either a single 10'' JL W3 or 6 or 10'' ID

Sub Amp: Kenwood

Thanks for any help...

1) No, you do need thte h701.

2) More control over your system, easier to tailor to your sound, typically.

3) Cool.

 

[fearturtle03 10+ year member]

Any advice on whether or not going active would be something worth doing, or would I need to go with a more powerful system to justify the active....

Could someone point me to a thread about Active?

 

[nismos14 5,000+ posts]

Going active doesn't require more power, you could technically run less and be fine when going active. The speakers become a little more sensitive as there is no "go between" to rob power, IE the passive crossover.

 

[fearturtle03 10+ year member]

ah, i got ya. Did a bit or reading and understand it a bit better. My eclipse amp has both HP/LP which i assume will not be used, but what about the bass boost option on the amp? Each set of channels has a bass boost knob, will they be set to 0 as well?

 

[nismos14 5,000+ posts]

It is good practice to never use the bass boost //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[krisfnbz 10+ year member]

Yeah you never want to use bass boost... It sounds like *** anyways.

 

[krisfnbz 10+ year member]

Okay so for the past 2 days I have completely dynamated my trunk, and my front 2 doors. As of right now I have at least 80 sqft of dynamat all over my car. I would say about 20 on each door, and 40 in the trunk(roughly)...

As far as the whole "blowing my speaker" thing... I realized that it was cracking in and out which couldnt be the speaker if it was blown. Turns out on my brand new set of RCA;s the conductor was not tight enough onto the connection on the back of the head unit. I used a pair of crimpers to make a solid connection and it all went away.

I still need to set my gains..but I like the way it sounds with the doors being completely sound proofed... Ill have pics later on. I probably spent total at least 3-5 hours per door making sure that shit was done right.

 

[tsenfw 10+ year member]

Now do another layer lol.

How's the active setup now? Did you get rid of all the noise?

 

[nismos14 5,000+ posts]

Nice, and results? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[krisfnbz 10+ year member]

Now do another layer lol.
How's the active setup now? Did you get rid of all the noise?

Well I looked at it this way. Because I saw a link to one of the second skin audios rep's truck and how he deadened his doors....I pretty much copied that but with dynamat because I get beast prices on it. Too bad they were backordered on the liquid stuff..

I made sure that everything on the inner panel I would never touch again because of the fact that I would be putting dynaliner in between each hole, and putting 2 layers of dynamat over it(SOLID *** connection) so everything on the inside is done...and I also put 2 dynaxorbs behind the speaker on each door as well...

now as far as the outer-panel I still had alot of dynamat to it... but later on down the line I may just add another 10 sqft to each door, but as far as anything else these doors are pretty **** heavy for civic doors.

As far as the whole active setup... I think im going to keep it this way. I have messed around with the head unit, but I spent more time this past weekend sound proofing...I think going active is nice but unless you really have nice speakers its hard to tell the advantage.(Its like yeah I deadened my doors fully but look at what speakers im running...SLX's nothing too great with mid-bas) Its all about what I upgrade to in the future.

The noise is still there...and I have completed the big 3 under the hood completely... all with 1/0 and fused everything in the entire car as well. I cant figure out what the noise is coming from, but its got alot better and its barely even noticable now. I can only tell when the car is in idle, and the music is all the way down...so im satisfied.

Nice, and results? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Above..

BTW I will have pics of what I have done as soon as I get a chance to upload to the computer. I must have added 30-40 lbs per door... its crazy

 

[tsenfw 10+ year member]

The noise is still there...and I have completed the big 3 under the hood completely... all with 1/0 and fused everything in the entire car as well. I cant figure out what the noise is coming from, but its got alot better and its barely even noticable now. I can only tell when the car is in idle, and the music is all the way down...so im satisfied.

Like I said before, I was getting similar noises when turning the gain up higher on my us amps 2 channel. I swapped out the us amps 2 channel component amp for a JL 300/4 and I no longer have the noise even with the gain pretty high. Try turning the gain down a little just too see, might be your amp.

 

[krisfnbz 10+ year member]

Like I said before, I was getting similar noises when turning the gain up higher on my us amps 2 channel. I swapped out the us amps 2 channel component amp for a JL 300/4 and I no longer have the noise even with the gain pretty high. Try turning the gain down a little just too see, might be your amp.

Yeah it could be my amp.. but the noise is pretty minimal.

 

[krisfnbz 10+ year member]

I just though of a question. if I had a 3 way component setup, how would I set everything up with the head unit? The 9887 only has 3 RCA's....front rear and sub?..

 

[nismos14 5,000+ posts]

You would either have to loose the subwoofer, or use a passive, preferrably between the midrange and tweeter.

This HU is not 3-way active capable, only 2 way + sub. Only one that is is the DRZ 9255. And possibly the Ural CDD, but if I'm not mistaken that HU is only 2 way active + sub as well.

 

[krisfnbz 10+ year member]

You would either have to loose the subwoofer, or use a passive, preferrably between the midrange and tweeter.
This HU is not 3-way active capable, only 2 way + sub. Only one that is is the DRZ 9255. And possibly the Ural CDD, but if I'm not mistaken that HU is only 2 way active + sub as well.

Okay I see.... now that I realize it going active in the front is really mainly only for front stage, because I cant even power my rear speakers through HU power now that my HU is in 'active" mode. Does this make sense?....I would have to amp the rears?