Getting bored with set up.

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those tangbangs are ******* just as drop-in units they have killer midbass..they don't play up very high but they will play up to 500. good long linear excursion and good efficiency.50 watts active will get them going nicely. same for the CCS. very good wide bandwidth midrage. will play down to 500NP and you can cross it around 4k and it will blend nicely with just about any decent tweeter..

 
m all for large=higher efficiency=better but when it comes to above 500 hz things become abit trickier. and the more drivers you have the harder is it to implement. id really look at some good 6.5s if you have 150 or so watts to throw to one.one of the best midbass speakers is actually fairly cheap.

Tang Band W6-1721 6-1/2" Underhung Midbass Driver 200 a pair for some great midbass drivers.

Creative Sound - Product Details

both those drivers preformed very well in strenuous distortion analyst and are great designs. top notch sound and killer output!

tang bands only have 50rms of power handling. thats concerning.

 
double negatives make no sense.
Raw drivers are designed for home theater cabinets. Sealed, on axis cabinets.

Not as vital in the mids but it does hurt power handling going IB like we use them.

The tweeters really want to be on axis and fall off very bad above 10k hertz if they are not.

Unless you go with more expensive ones from Scan, but in that case you are going $800 deep and there are plenty of options.

 
Raw drivers are designed for home theater cabinets. Sealed, on axis cabinets. Not as vital in the mids but it does hurt power handling going IB like we use them.

The tweeters really want to be on axis and fall off very bad above 10k hertz if they are not.

Unless you go with more expensive ones from Scan, but in that case you are going $800 deep and there are plenty of options.
i would most likely end up keeping my current tweeters, mounting any midrange with the tweeter in glassed a-pillar pods which would be an enclosure. My current tweets are in the sail panels on axis to the drivers head.

 
if hes glassing the doors i would definitely put everything on axis close together as possible.

the TB driver can do nicely sealed or IB it has 8MM xmax. the power-handling is low but the efficiency is so high you wont need much more than 50.. they will handle 100 on music though.. plane and simple a solid highend amp thats rated to do 50x6 will be plenty. unless you have 2 15s and 2500 watts then id step it up to 100x6

 
I'm talking pointing at your face.

And watch out for paper cones. Yes they sound very good but they will fall apart in a car.

If you really look at the diy crowd that preaches raw drivers you will notice they change speakers every week looking for something better. That should tell you a lot

 
I'm talking pointing at your face. And watch out for paper cones. Yes they sound very good but they will fall apart in a car.

If you really look at the diy crowd that preaches raw drivers you will notice they change speakers every week looking for something better. That should tell you a lot
This is true.

 
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The Camry

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