Getting bored with set up.

[The Camry]

The hertz set have a peak that i just cant eq out without a more powerful DSP, and ive gotten bored with my current set up.

I spent most of the last two days glassing up and totally and utterly sealing and fiberglassing my doors. A starving ferret couldnt get out of there. Ive done this for SQ purposes as well as i want to go with 8in midbass drivers in the door in the future.

Many 6.5 speakers have alot midrange distortion and id like to try and see what a dedicated midrange driver can do.

I am confident that using my 4 channel filters, plus careful 80prs channel usage(using bandpass on midrange and tweets with a passive crossover in correct locations, ect time alignment wouldnt be an issue because id glass up A-pillars for midrange/tweeters and align their voicecoils. ) Honestly i havnt sat down and mapped it all out to see if its possible but im fairly certain it is possible to run 4 way active with my current dsp capabilities on my HU, amp, and adding passive where needed.

So i guess my question is. Whats a good midrange driver for the money. Id just use my 6.5 as a dedicated midbass.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I just got some crescendo pwx 10s and let me say, they sound beautiful and non peaky the way I tuned it, currently off 75 watts only and it still surpasses my expectation. I honestly thought they'd be really peaky with no clarity or detail, i was extremely wrong.

 

[The Camry]

I just got some crescendo pwx 10s and let me say, they sound beautiful and non peaky the way I tuned it, currently off 75 watts only and it still surpasses my expectation. I honestly thought they'd be really peaky with no clarity or detail, i was extremely wrong.

Where are you crossing them? Are you trying to say i should toss the 6.5 and go with a 10in midbass/midrange?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Where are you crossing them? Are you trying to say i should toss the 6.5 and go with a 10in midbass/midrange?

they actually naturally roll off up top pretty well. They actually integrated well in my system with no crossovers and high pass off. Even without actual subwoofers running atm, people think i have subs in my car and the bass doesnt detract away from the clarity since i have them pretty low powered atm. I had a dip in the male vocals and a nasty natural peak in the 3.5khz to 6khz range in the past that i had to eq down a lot but now its sounds very clear/present and buttery smooth.

 

[The Camry]

they actually naturally roll off up top pretty well. They actually integrated well in my system with no crossovers and high pass off. Even without actual subwoofers running atm, people think i have subs in my car and the bass doesnt detract away from the clarity since i have them pretty low powered atm. I had a dip in the male vocals and a nasty natural peak in the 3.5khz to 6khz range in the past that i had to eq down a lot but now its sounds very clear/present and buttery smooth.

so what your saying is. install em, call it a day.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

so what your saying is. install em, call it a day.

yerp, some of the most painless tuning i've ever done.

Can play around with EQ if you want, just a lil pizzaz here or there like you would with any new speaker.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

jeff your not serious right? Id never do that. your going to have some serious comb filtering and cancellation issues.

i dont recommend a prosound wooferas a midbass/range at all really.

your going to have some serious imaging nightmares and frankly to get a 10 to play higher than about 300 hz isnt a good idea unless its pretty much directly in tron of you same height and on axis.

if you just want something loud as **** sure but if you want something to really sound great you need to cross them over and use good crossovers as well..

there is something called beaming and the higher the frequency the worse it get and the larger the driver the faster it starts.

typically around 3500 hz a good 6.5 starts beaming.. the ones with the little phase plug in hte middle do better off axis and usually can play alittle higher.

this is only for very highend speakers at that. most typical 500 down sets start beaming around 2k.

if you really want a great low distortion midrange 6.5 speakscan, seas, CDT(ES line), rainbow, focal,heliz,fostek are just a few.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

jeff your not serious right? Id never do that. your going to have some serious comb filtering and cancellation issues. i dont recommend a prosound wooferas a midbass/range at all really.

your going to have some serious imaging nightmares and frankly to get a 10 to play higher than about 300 hz isnt a good idea unless its pretty much directly in tron of you same height and on axis.

if you just want something loud as **** sure but if you want something to really sound great you need to cross them over and use good crossovers as well..

there is something called beaming and the higher the frequency the worse it get and the larger the driver the faster it starts.

typically around 3500 hz a good 6.5 starts beaming.. the ones with the little phase plug in hte middle do better off axis and usually can play alittle higher.

this is only for very highend speakers at that. most typical 500 down sets start beaming around 2k.

if you really want a great low distortion midrange 6.5 speakscan, seas, CDT(ES line), rainbow, focal,heliz,fostek are just a few.

Dont assume stuff you never heard. I'm not going for "loud as balls" or else i wouldnt be using a 6 x 75 rms JL. I'd be bridging the ppi 900.4 i have. The mids literally did not need any crossovers like my other midbasses do. The natural roll off already works like a proper crossover point with proper slope that matches my system and how its currently setup. No beaming or any effect that you are blatantly assuming, i know what beaming is and it sounds rancid. Staging and imaging actually improved after some time alignment tweaking from the added details with much better 60-1250hz performance.

Not saying its the same for every setup but for my setup it just fell into place perfectly like a missing puzzle piece acoustics wise rather than having to bandpass crossing over like all the other mids i've used.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

got pics? slope is typically 6DB octave its a very slow rolloff typically. if you have it on aixs you might beable to get it to sound ok. but i dare you to get that thing tested to really see how the driver sounds.

Klippel Reviews & Driver Specs - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum some very high-end drivers from very knowledgeable companies have a hard time getting a good 8" midwoofer to play up 1500hz. id like to see how tat driver preforms against some of the best in the world..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

got pics? slope is typically 6DB octave its a very slow rolloff typically. if you have it on aixs you might beable to get it to sound ok. but i dare you to get that thing tested to really see how the driver sounds.Klippel Reviews & Driver Specs - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum some very high-end drivers frm very knowledgeable companies have a hard time getting a good 8" midwoofer to play up 1500hz. id like to see how tat driver proforms aginst some of hte best in hte world..

No pics yet, still working on all the other parts of the car with the 4 18s build so the car is messy as all hell from car audio and work. Its currently in the kick panel on axis to my ears. The woofer basically doesnt play that much higher than 1250hz, it starts rolling off at 800hz right where my midrange starts kicking in. It will definitely play the upper hz range louder if I upped the input power but for the volume level i'm listening now at 75 watts its reaching a perfect range. I will definitely need to set crossover points with proper slopes when I put 200-400 watts rms to each of these in the future..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

m all for large=higher efficiency=better but when it comes to above 500 hz things become abit trickier. and the more drivers you have the harder is it to implement. id really look at some good 6.5s if you have 150 or so watts to throw to one.

one of the best midbass speakers is actually fairly cheap.

Tang Band W6-1721 6-1/2" Underhung Midbass Driver 200 a pair for some great midbass drivers.

Creative Sound - Product Details

both those drivers preformed very well in strenuous distortion analyst and are great designs. top notch sound and killer output!

 

[The Camry]

m all for large=higher efficiency=better but when it comes to above 500 hz things become abit trickier. and the more drivers you have the harder is it to implement. id really look at some good 6.5s if you have 150 or so watts to throw to one.one of the best midbass speakers is actually fairly cheap.

Tang Band W6-1721 6-1/2" Underhung Midbass Driver 200 a pair for some great midbass drivers.

Creative Sound - Product Details

both those drivers preformed very well in strenuous distortion analyst and are great designs. top notch sound and killer output!

Are you thinking those two together would sound better than my current set up?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Get a better DSP before you do anything else.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Are you thinking those two together would sound better than my current set up?

its only an ESk, doesnt take much to beat them out when you go with raw drivers from partsexpress or madisound when going active on an 80 prs.

 

[The Camry]

its only an ESk, doesnt take much to beat them out when you go with raw drivers from partsexpress or madisound when going active on an 80 prs.

I understand that but i dont know much about raw drivers and what the quality/price ratios are. As in. what raw drivers would i get to compete with a premade component Hertz set.