Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

MMats is too expensive...
Votes so far with other sites:

PPI - 3

Arc KS300 - 3

Boston - 2

JL - 1

Arc KS500 - 0

Arc XDi - 0

Alpine -0
I still favor the PPI..lol...I know it is not the monoblock, but this article is just a slight reference to these little class D's capability:

http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/reports/1805-test-report-precision-power-p9004-amplifier-

Here is the KS 300.2...it is a nice amp too and if I favored a 2 ch for sub duty, it would without a doubt top My list:

http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/reports/1171-arc-audio-ks3002-amplifier

here are some very worthwhile underrated notables that should be on anyone's list looking for a good bass amp:

AmericanBass VFL80.1

Rockford Fosgate P1000X1D 1000W RMS Mono Class D Punch Amplifier

Orion XTR10001 Class D Monoblock XTR Series Amplifier (XTR 10001) (maybe a hair too wide)

PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - ORION XTR15001 Amplifier - the big brother to the above amp but gives a good testament to the quality and performance still available in the Old Brands..

AQ1200D Amplifier (real close on width)

good luck on what ever you choose, bud.

 
I still favor the PPI..lol...I know it is not the monoblock, but this article is just a slight reference to these little class D's capability:PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - Precision Power P900.4 Amplifier

Here is the KS 300.2...it is a nice amp too and if I favored a 2 ch for sub duty, it would without a doubt top My list:

PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - Arc Audio KS300.2 Amplifier

here are some very worthwhile underrated notables that should be on anyone's list looking for a good bass amp:

AmericanBass VFL80.1

Rockford Fosgate P1000X1D 1000W RMS Mono Class D Punch Amplifier

Orion XTR10001 Class D Monoblock XTR Series Amplifier (XTR 10001) (maybe a hair too wide)

PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - ORION XTR15001 Amplifier - the big brother to the above amp but gives a good testament to the quality and performance still available in the Old Brands..

AQ1200D Amplifier (real close on width)

good luck on what ever you choose, bud.
Thanks for the articles...

BTW the measurements are actually 9.5" But I said 9.25" cause I am not sure how EXACT the measurements are on sites and what not...

I like all the amps you listed but the big brother orion is too long...

 
if you never used one then dont comment. how does a cadence a7hc put out 1400rms clamped on 80 amps, fuses can handle double the power for small amounts of time. mmats is a highly regarded brand and quak you are the only person on this forum who wil lever doubt a mmats amp.
I am well aware that the fuses most of use can handle 2x even 3x their rated amperage for limited amounts of time. The Cadence you reference was probably pushed as close to the point of clipping as possible using a frequency specific sine. Assuming this was done at @ 13v and an efficiency of @ 80%?? That would be @ 135 amps (a little over 160% of fuse rating)for however long it took to do the test..what?..less than 30 seconds? That 80a fuse might hold that amperage for 5-10 minutes...or maybe not. I really do not doubt the build quality of Mmats or that they will clamp at rated output( I just want to see a test). I understand the competition inclined specs. But I speak as someone who has never heard of them and looks and says "WTF". Obviously they are more efficient than their own website gives them credit for.

Signal to Noise Ratio >90dB

Low pass frequency crossover 35Hz~300Hz

Subsonic filter 10Hz~60Hz

Bass boost @ 45Hz 0~18dB

Phase shift control 0~180 degree

Frequency response 10Hz~350Hz (+/- 1dB)

T.H.D @ 4 ohm

Efficiency @ 4 ohm 86%

Fuse rating 25A x 3

Input Sensitivity 200mV to 6V (+/- 5%)

Dimensions 252(W) x 58(H) x 294(L)mm

so quak how much power does this amp put out
lol...I figured that I was starting a shit storm. as far as the specs above?..**** if I know..I'd guess it at 850w - 1000w rms based on the very limited data.

 
Is there a diff between a bridged 2 channel and a mono amp?
Technically, Not really. But realistically, most Monoblocks are of the class D flavor and most you will find are 1 ohm stable. There is a lot of flexibility available when choosing sub(s) to match a 1 ohm stable monoblock....example, if you are running a clean 100 - 150 watts per ch rms on the highs, look to a solid, clean 1000-1200watts RMS on the lows...It is sooo much better to attenuate the bass, if needed, than to wish you had more after everything is said and done.

Check this out..I ran across this while researching your amps earlier, and was pleasantly surprised...i feel this will be my next subwoofer. it is available in a D2 vc variant as well:

PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - American Bass XFL1244 Subwoofer

 
I am well aware that the fuses most of use can handle 2x even 3x their rated amperage for limited amounts of time. The Cadence you reference was probably pushed as close to the point of clipping as possible using a frequency specific sine. Assuming this was done at @ 13v and an efficiency of @ 80%?? That would be @ 135 amps (a little over 160% of fuse rating)for however long it took to do the test..what?..less than 30 seconds? That 80a fuse might hold that amperage for 5-10 minutes...or maybe not. I really do not doubt the build quality of Mmats or that they will clamp at rated output( I just want to see a test). I understand the competition inclined specs. But I speak as someone who has never heard of them and looks and says "WTF". Obviously they are more efficient than their own website gives them credit for.



lol...I figured that I was starting a shit storm. as far as the specs above?..**** if I know..I'd guess it at 850w - 1000w rms based on the very limited data.
saz 1k guess it doesnt do rated

 

---------- Post added at 10:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:11 PM ----------

 

SSA Store - Stetsom Venom 900.1 @1ohm amplifier

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/stetsom-1k6-mono-block-1780w-amplifier.html

also some amazing amps

 
saz 1k guess it doesnt do rated
HA..I was close...lol

I am sure it does rated on the 75a fusing. 1000w rms at 14.4v would be @ 105% of fuse rating, well within the common @ +25% long term allowance inherent in fuse manufacturing. That is a heck of a lot more realistic than 1150w rms at 13.8v on 60a fusing running @ 180% of fuse rating.

I know we are beating a dead horse, but I appreciate the conversation and hope op doesn't mind. We both understand how music fluctuates and how there are so many variables involved that a 1ohm nom sub in a 32 hz tuned box playing Iron Man by Black Sabbath on the aforementioned power is not going to see anywhere close to the stated rms output if you set your gain with a DMM and a 40hz tone like most suggest.

 
I dont mind just wish I knew even half of what you are talking about lol...

I dont get all the ohms thing yet 1-2-4 and how that relates to running subs or what not...

 
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