Future proof install??

caseyboy43

Junior Member
Is there a way to future proof the installation of my system?

I have grand plans but strained finances. I have some pieces from a previous build that I was trying not to use but might have to and gradually swap out for what I want.

So if I upgrade alternator/battery and big 3 upgrade and use 1/0 gauge wires for amp install as well as sub enclosure and run 8 gauge speaker wire for doors (this alone is around $1,000) - will this allow me to swap out new, higher output equipment at a later date (sorta like plug and play)?

I would rather do it right the first time but reality is I cannot justify the expense and I don't believe in "budget" speakers and amps. I don't want my equipment to be disposable - I expect it to be durable and last a very long time. Would never be abused but definitely stretched out from time to time.

Appreciate the insight.

 
your going about this the wrong way, its good you list your budget but your electrical should hold what you will run and not build the electrical and build a system for the electrical.

 
Fair enough on the speaker wire - what is more appropriate? 12 gauge?

But is there a downside to having the HO alternator, HD battery and engine wires (alternator positive to battery positive, battery negative to chassis, and engine ground to chassis)? Sort of like building a computer - you get a power supply that has enough headroom to build on and add more power hungry components - hard drive allows storage beyond current needs. - how would this be any different?

Problem is my budget and my bank account are not at the same table. So I want to be able to piece things together and I was going to start with the electrical.

I have some modest amps and subs but my plans are much bigger.

 
My budget wasn't $1000 for amps and subs - what I want (or think I want) is somewhere north of $4000 - but life gets in the way and that may take some time to realize. So while I am not the most patient, I was going to piece things together but wanted to have a solid foundation already in place.

I was simply stating that the electrical upgrade is around $1000.

 
find out exactly what you what and what gear you want, then break it down to steps/stages.... so you can gradually improve your system without having to remove/sell/upgrade things...... in saying that. You will Always want more lol :p

 
#12 is more than adequate for all speaker wire at nearly any power level. Buy a big *** roll on eBay for cheap and have enough to add as needed. Buy a decent size length of 1/0 gauge.... keep it longer than you need with some coiled up under a seat. I've had the same primary 1/0 gauge through my last 4 vehicles now (along with the same 6 channel RCA).

Why upgrade alternator until needed? You could total the car next week and be out 400$.... ditto with battery. Not like they're on sale now or something and if what you have works, why mess with it until you need more? They, unlike wire, do have a limited lifespan.

Really, buying a bulk size of speaker wire is never a bad investment, running a couple extra lengths when you have the seats and carpet out isn't a huge investment, and 1/0 gauge wire, if you keep it long should last for decades even in different cars. Batteries and alternators are consumables and they're losing value/life expectancy from the instant you buy them.

 
#12 is more than adequate for all speaker wire at nearly any power level. Buy a big *** roll on eBay for cheap and have enough to add as needed. Buy a decent size length of 1/0 gauge.... keep it longer than you need with some coiled up under a seat. I've had the same primary 1/0 gauge through my last 4 vehicles now (along with the same 6 channel RCA).

Why upgrade alternator until needed? You could total the car next week and be out 400$.... ditto with battery. Not like they're on sale now or something and if what you have works, why mess with it until you need more? They, unlike wire, do have a limited lifespan.

Really, buying a bulk size of speaker wire is never a bad investment, running a couple extra lengths when you have the seats and carpet out isn't a huge investment, and 1/0 gauge wire, if you keep it long should last for decades even in different cars. Batteries and alternators are consumables and they're losing value/life expectancy from the instant you buy them.

 
Zed Leviathan for front stage and rear fill

Zuki Class D 5 Channel for sub

Kenwood DNN990HD HU

PHD FB 6.1 Pro 6.5" components

PHD MF6.1C 6.5" coaxial

SiriusXM tuner

idatalink maestro rr

Camera Source rear view camera

Rydeen parking assist sensors

JL stealthbox

Subs and enclosure are the only true unknown. I was leaning towards the JL stealthbox only because of convenience. Getting a box built to the specs of the subs seems more challenging than people let on to.

So this is my list and it totals $5000 and that doesn't include sound deadening or install. I wasn't looking for suggestions on the components I was planning on using, just about having necessary ground work in place as a first step.

 
Zed Leviathan for front stage and rear fill

Zuki Class D 5 Channel for sub

Kenwood DNN990HD HU

PHD FB 6.1 Pro 6.5" components

PHD MF6.1C 6.5" coaxial

SiriusXM tuner

idatalink maestro rr

Camera Source rear view camera

Rydeen parking assist sensors

JL stealthbox

Subs and enclosure are the only true unknown. I was leaning towards the JL stealthbox only because of convenience. Getting a box built to the specs of the subs seems more challenging than people let on to.

So this is my list and it totals $5000 and that doesn't include sound deadening or install. I wasn't looking for suggestions on the components I was planning on using, just about having necessary ground work in place as a first step.

 
I am usually satisfied with what I get as long as I didn't settle. Once it performs to my expectation I stop thinking about it (unless something fails or goes wrong).

Never thought about the alt/battery as consumables with limited lifespan - so that makes sense. I currently have (2) JL 300/4 & (1) JL 500/1 that I was going to use until I free up the funds to buy what I want.

 
I am not real fond of a sealed enclosure - but I would have to have a little faith that they know what they are doing (JL that is).

I had a small custom ported box in my last truck (Avalanche). It was built to hold (4) JL 6W0's and it hit like a single 10" - not the best but not the worst and still was able to shake the back window. I have a Silverado CC now and need to keep the back seat functionality - so any box would need to fit under seat and that presents limitations. Looking at countless 10" or 12" subs all require different volume and mounting depths and it's not really available.

 
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caseyboy43

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