Fuse question

You are really starting to embarrass yourself. The equipment has its own fuses or internal circuit protection (Im sure you have seen the lil light go from green to RED) The fuse next to the battery or even the fuse at the distro block doesnt give a fu(k about protecting equipment. Its sole purpose is to protect the wiring by not allowing enough current to pass thru the wire and melt the insulation.
Maybe if I pretend for a second that someone has installed a 1000W rms amp and only used #10AWG for a main power run. Nah, lets make this interesting.... TWO 1000W rms amps with the same #10 wire. Are you now going to tell me that there should be a 100+Ampere fuse at the battery to protect the amps? I seriously hope not because any current flowing thru wire creates heat.

The fuse at the battery is determined by the size of the power wire (in this scenario above, the correct size would be 30A for the #10 wire)

I WILL REPEAT MYSELF: It is perfectly safe to install the LARGEST rated fuse as long as it DOES NOT EXCEED the capacity of the wire.

STFU & GTFO
X2....

I'm surprised by the responses of some of these people... could cause real damage...

 
just because you can send an amplifier 300A because of the wire you are using doesnt mean you should. a 60A rated amplifier cant take 61A if you're not sending it 61A.

i would rather be safe than sorry.

 
so in other words you're telling me that never fails and amps never blow?
I was talking about normal operation. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif If you would have understood what I said.

just because you can send an amplifier 300A because of the wire you are using doesnt mean you should. a 60A rated amplifier cant take 61A if you're not sending it 61A.
i would rather be safe than sorry.
You have the general idea, but a 60A fuse does not blow at 60A usually. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

My opinion is rating the fuse for the amp, since in correct conditions, your wiring is sufficient to carry the current needed without excessive voltage drop and heat.

Some how I sense you're trying to duke it out with me, I say go ahead if you want, it all depends on how you want to look while doing it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

 
I was talking about normal operation. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif If you would have understood what I said.


You have the general idea, but a 60A fuse does not blow at 60A usually. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

My opinion is rating the fuse for the amp, since in correct conditions, your wiring is sufficient to carry the current needed without excessive voltage drop and heat.

Some how I sense you're trying to duke it out with me, I say go ahead if you want, it all depends on how you want to look while doing it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif
not at all i just dont agree that sending 300A to something just because you can is the correct approach. i mean if something shorts in the amplifier you still have the potential to send it a live 300A, when is that ever a good idea?

i mean you Could do 120mph on side streets when the speed limit is 25 but would you? should you?

 
Well, let's put it this way...

If your amp blows, it blows, and will draw enough current through it's rated fuse to make it a destructive failure. There is no disputing that.

I don't see your point. Are you saying that you should run only the required amount of wiring for your load? (IE 4/0 Aluminum is rated for 180A)

You do not SEND it to it, it flows when the resistance(in this case it is really inductance/impedance) allows it to do so. It just has the capability to send 300A safely.

I do not see your point, and I think you're just arguing for the sake of arguing. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

Edit: I'll say it again: I think the wire should be fused at the same rating as the amp.

 
Well, let's put it this way...
If your amp blows, it blows, and will draw enough current through it's rated fuse to make it a destructive failure. There is no disputing that.

I don't see your point. Are you saying that you should run only the required amount of wiring for your load? (IE 4/0 Aluminum is rated for 180A)

You do not SEND it to it, it flows when the resistance(in this case it is really inductance/impedance) allows it to do so. It just has the capability to send 300A safely.

I do not see your point, and I think you're just arguing for the sake of arguing. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

Edit: I'll say it again: I think the wire should be fused at the same rating as the amp.
no, using cable that can provide more power when needed is a smart choice. (if you ever wanted to upgrade everything is in place) ie. a bodybuilder doesnt walk around daily with the maximum amount of weight he can carry but, if he had to carry something within his limits he could do so at any time. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 
Learn ohms law, and voltage drop. When you understand what those things are, you will understand why people run gobs of wire. It's not because they want to upgrade later either.

For example. I run 4 runs of 4/0, with only 4kW. You figure out why.

 
the fuse at the battery is to protect the CAR (or more accurately, it's electrical system). The Fuse should be rated for what the new york asian escorts alternator or new york asian escort battery can supply.

meh, this makes no sense.. the inline fuse is to protect the equipment at the other end. your fuse box is a bunch of in-line new york escorts uses rated for whatever new york escort your battery/alt is supplying power to. ideally you want your in-line fuse going to your amps to blow before the fuses in the amp itself. if the fuse was suppose to be rated for whatever the alt can supply every fuse in your fuse box would be the same size....

 
powerwheel.png
 
i have 4/0 cable from amp to batt ,power and ground, and im only doing 1000 rms. my amp has a 80 amp fuse on it,, ive never put a inline fuse, i thought the amp fuse is all u need....but i do have a 250 anl fuse. should i put it in... ? ive had it like this for 8 years or so and never had a problem,,, am i asking for trouble, or is it really not that serious?

 
i have 4/0 cable from amp to batt ,power and ground, and im only doing 1000 rms. my amp has a 80 amp fuse on it,, ive never put a inline fuse, i thought the amp fuse is all u need....but i do have a 250 anl fuse. should i put it in... ? ive had it like this for 8 years or so and never had a problem,,, am i asking for trouble, or is it really not that serious?
Well after 8 yrs, I say if it aint broke, dont fix it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

Seriously: Amp fuse is for amp. Inline fuse is for wire. If the wire gets caught up in your adjustable seat mechanism, you will effectively weld your mechanism together and it will no longer adjust.

 
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