Fuse/Fuze Keeps blowing

[cgould]

Hi, I am new here,

My Dad has had new sound systems in his cars since the early 2000s and now that I have a car for myself, he decided to give me his JLaudio subwoofer (im not sure about size). It is connected to mono channel amplifier however the fuse keeps on blowing every 1/2 months. Originally I had a 20A fuse in the little slot, so switched it for 60A, however the problem keeps happening. There is a 60A fuse on the car battery that remains intact.

Is the fuse still too small?
Any other problems that could be the reason??

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[Firewalker]

Need a lot more information. What size power and ground wires, what exact model of JL Subwoofer and Size, what mono-block amplifier model, where is the amplifier grounded, are you using a distribution block.

With be a lot easier to diagnose if we have all that information.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

Hi, I am new here,

My Dad has had new sound systems in his cars since the early 2000s and now that I have a car for myself, he decided to give me his JLaudio subwoofer (im not sure about size). It is connected to mono channel amplifier however the fuse keeps on blowing every 1/2 months. Originally I had a 20A fuse in the little slot, so switched it for 60A, however the problem keeps happening. There is a 60A fuse on the car battery that remains intact.

Is the fuse still too small?
Any other problems that could be the reason??

If the amp came with a 20A fuse, then don't put a bigger one in there; that can lead to an electrical fire.

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

A 60 amp fuse by the battery is good for like a 600 watt amp. 10A for every 100w or so. Yeah, don’t change your fuse sizes on the amp.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

What is the make and model of the sub woofer and amplifier? What size is the power supply to the amplifier? What size inline fuse and type being used at the battery? What size of ground wiring being used and where is that grounded at on the vehicle? Pics will usually help as well

 

[HardofWhoring]

There's a lot of potential for danger here. Stop just guessing on fuse sizes, there is an exact size, and there is a reason for it.

REALLY DON'T MEAN THIS TO BE RUDE: BUT FOR EVERYONE IN THIS THREAD: There is a serious lack of knowledge and effort from OP, and any advice given will need to cover not only how to fix it, but everything that might effect any other part.

OP hasn't put any effort into searching at all. Think about it: They have just been blowing fuses, popping in new fuses of larger sizes and seeing what happens. I question the OP's basic mechanical knowledge if they don't even know what a fuse is, and what it does. We don't know the amp, the wiring, the install, and I really question the OP's effort level.

AGAIN, I DON'T MEAN THIS TO BE RUDE I'M TRYING TO OFFER THE BEST ADVICE I CAN BECAUSE OF THE HIGHER THAN AVERAGE POSSIBILITY FOR CATASROPHIC FAILURE BASED ON WHAT WE HAVE UP TO THIS POINT: but I think the OP's best option is to just take it to someone who can look at the entire picture and do it for them. Good luck. I'm out.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

What does your dad say? If his history with stereos matters then his history with stereos should matter.

My dad is great with cars, but he would never give me a shitty car and say "good luck!".

 

[spokey9]

What does your dad say? If his history with stereos matters then his history with stereos should matter.

Like he said...I'd check with your pops since he should know a thing a two...

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

You can pull that amp and use a car battery to test the amp out at the batt post Poss to Poss and Neg to Neg and jump the Remote wire to Poss. place correct fuse in. If it goes into protect or fuse blows. Issue is the amplifier.Simple power up testing method.

 

[cgould]

Need a lot more information. What size power and ground wires, what exact model of JL Subwoofer and Size, what mono-block amplifier model, where is the amplifier grounded, are you using a distribution block.

With be a lot easier to diagnose if we have all that information.

Hello, thanks for the reply, 500/1 Mono Block JL Audio (Slash?), 4AWG Power and ground wire, amplifier is grounded to bolt hole behind rear boot panel. The fuse that blows is on the distribution block but this is only there to help with AMP and box removal from the boot. I don't know the exact model of the SUB but it is a 10inch in a Pre-made box (JL)

 

[cgould]

What is the make and model of the sub woofer and amplifier? What size is the power supply to the amplifier? What size inline fuse and type being used at the battery? What size of ground wiring being used and where is that grounded at on the vehicle? Pics will usually help as well

Hello, thanks for the reply, 500/1 Mono Block JL Audio (Slash?), 4AWG Power and ground wire, amplifier is grounded to bolt hole behind rear boot panel. The fuse that blows is on the distribution block but this is only there to help with AMP and box removal from the boot. I don't know the exact model of the SUB but it is a 10inch in a Pre-made box (JL)

 

[cgould]

Hi everyone this the Dad! We've swapped amps and all was going well for about 10 minutes, bass was dropping well and all was good. However, no blown fuse this time, but amp suddenly stopped working and green 'on light' was well and truly off! Put a volt meter across it and was seeing the voltage range from 8V to maybe 11v with the green light then coming on after 10V. Engine and head unit remained on at all times! Checked the voltage at the engine battery fuse and all was good at a steady 14.2V and a steady 14.2V at the distribution block in the boot before the fuse. But after fuse voltage kept varying!

I've got a theory but i'm curious to see if anyone else can suggest something. Will be investigating more tomorrow night.

Thanks for all the guidance/comments so far!

The Dad!

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

Hi everyone this the Dad! We've swapped amps and all was going well for about 10 minutes, bass was dropping well and all was good. However, no blown fuse this time, but amp suddenly stopped working and green 'on light' was well and truly off! Put a volt meter across it and was seeing the voltage range from 8V to maybe 11v with the green light then coming on after 10V. Engine and head unit remained on at all times! Checked the voltage at the engine battery fuse and all was good at a steady 14.2V and a steady 14.2V at the distribution block in the boot before the fuse. But after fuse voltage kept varying!

I've got a theory but i'm curious to see if anyone else can suggest something. Will be investigating more tomorrow night.

Thanks for all the guidance/comments so far!

The Dad!

This is the **** that makes me want kids. It's so cool that your boy is into the same stuff that you were at his age!

How did you test fuses? Testing continuity with the fuse removed from the circuit is the only reliably accurate way.

Did you measure coltage from positive to negative AND from remote to negative? If you have 12v from positive to negative, try jumping from positive to remote. That will tell you whether or not your amp is the culprit.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like a bad ground or wiring problem on the 12v+ side.