Fuse at battery keeps blowing

mobbdeep
10+ year member

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Hello,

I recently did an install of two 12" Kicker CVR subs, an Alpine MRX-100 1,000W Class D mono block amp for the subs, 4 Kenwood Sport Series door speakers, and a Rockford Fosgate Prime R250X4 4-Channel setup for the door speakers. I ordered 2 of the Bassik Knuconeptz amp kits and before I installed my door speaker amp, I had one fuse blow. I cleaned up my wiring, put a new one in, and today when I got on the highway, the new fuse blew. The fuse I'm referring to is the 60A AGU fuse in the fuse holder at the battery. My sub woofer amp has four 25A fuses in it which should be plenty for the fuse that came with the kit.

All in all, I had the same except equipment in my 1999 Chevy Lumina a few years ago except the sister brand of Rockford Fosgate as the wiring kit. None of the settings on the amp itself or HU have changed either as that was all pulled from my previous vehicle too. I am now driving an 05 Ford Focus.

Can someone please guide me in the right direction? I don't want to keep spending money on fuses.

Thank you!

 
Short in the wiring.

Amp is fused for 100 amps and you have a 60 amp inline. (even though I doubt it will pull that) Do not put a larger fuse inline though. The CCA 4 gauge cant handle alot of amperage.

You are running two basic 4 gauge kits? The KCA 1/0 kit would have been a better option honestly.

 
Short in the wiring.

Amp is fused for 100 amps and you have a 60 amp inline. (even though I doubt it will pull that) Do not put a larger fuse inline though. The CCA 4 gauge cant handle alot of amperage.

You are running two basic 4 gauge kits? The KCA 1/0 kit would have been a better option honestly.
So there's nothing I can do fuse wise aside from assuming there's either a short in the wiring or get the KCA 1/0 kit? I just don't have the extra money to spend $100 or more on a kit which I know will get me 1/0 and OFC.

 
You can find the short and repair it.
I will have a look on my next day off work. I believe it could be a bad connection at the amp with the power wire which may be shorting on the amp chassis causing it to blow. I never figured out a trick to connecting the power wire into the amp without it being able to wiggle around or potentially become loose. Any recommendations? It's the one where you tighten with a hex key and it holds the wire. Also, would changing the fuses at the battery to ANL instead of glass AGU, would that help? I heard glass AGU fuses are known to have the soldering melt out of the fuse.

 
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I will have a look on my next day off work. I believe it could be a bad connection at the amp with the power wire which may be shorting on the amp chassis causing it to blow. I never figured out a trick to connecting the power wire into the amp without it being able to wiggle around or potentially become loose. Any recommendations? It's the one where you tighten with a hex key and it holds the wire. Also, would changing the fuses at the battery to ANL instead of glass AGU, would that help? I heard glass AGU fuses are known to have the soldering melt out of the fuse.
Wire ferrules will help. I personally have never used them but i've also never had an issue with wire being loose in an amp. Is the wire small compared to the terminal opening?

I don't care for AGU fuse holders but it shouldn't make a difference with your issue. Just make sure the connections are tight on the fuse holder. They like to melt if not.

 
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mobbdeep

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