Full low budget system replacement

[GAMEOVERCCA 10+ year member]

you have pm

 

[FtheNutHuggers]

firstgo:

have you looked closely at the area where the front speakers mount? If so, is there room around the factory speaker hole? There is a speaker that I recommend for this type of application, and many others that is utterly ridiculous in the volume department. That is something that your vehicle will need to keep up with the ridiculous volume that is going to come from the rear 6x9s. Trying to get a 3.5" speaker of any sort to keep up with a set of half-crappy 6x9s is pretty much impossible. If you want to just lower the overall volume, by fading the output toward the front to reduce power going to the rears....that is a way. If you are not interested in lowering one to match another, rather make both even, you'll need to look outside the car audio bubble for sure. Take a second and go to: Galaxy Audio S5N-8 5" Neodymium Full Range Driver 8 Ohm. That is a Galaxy 5. I'm not saying it will fit your application, but with very little structural modification in many vehicles with factory 3.5s up front, I've installed these as replacements. They are extremely loud. Here is a video giving you an idea of just how loud. The two dash mounted Galaxy 5s are running off the headunit and the 10) 15's that play music above 155dB for many minutes straight are running on an 8kw amplifier.

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If the ability to work that speaker into the factory place is possible, with what you seem to be asking for, that is the perfect driver for you.

 

[firstgo]

Gameover, im not interested but thanks. Fthenuthuggers, I don't know what you're saying but it sounds more complicated than its worth to me.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

You want to find an amplifier that will match the power handling of your sub. You want to look at the rms power ratings. Also an adjustable high pass filter and sub sonic filter are good to have too. Cheaper amps will clip (distort) the signal sooner than a better made amp, which will affect how your sub plays and how long it will last. These cheap amps are made by: Pyle, Pyramid, Legacy, Boss, Lanzar and there are a few others.

If you are looking at an AB class amp, they typically run at 50-60% efficiency, so multiply this by 12volts and multiply that but the amount of fuses. If looking at a D class amp, they run closer to 75-80% efficiency so multiply this by 12. The amp will never draw the full amount of the fuses but you can use this as a rough estimate to put you in the ballpark.

watts = volts x amps

Ex #1- Take that first Pyle amp you listed. Its an AB class with 20a of fuses. 20amps x 6volts = 120watts rms. While this isn't the actual power it is very close and definitely safe to say it wont be over about 150wrms. Pyle doesn't even list rms power ratings because they are so ridiculously low, people would never buy their stuff, thats one of the reasons why they only rate at peak power.

Ex #2- My Rockford Fosgate mono has 140a of fuses built in and its a d class. 140amps x 9volts = 1260 watts rms. The manufacturer rates 1000watts rms at 1 ohm and my amp has a birthsheet of 1400wrms at 1ohm and is 76% efficient at 1 ohm. This amp is actually 40% under rated due to putting out 400wrms more than what its rated for. I'm not saying go out and buy a Rockford, but get a quality made amp.

In the end, you get what you pay for. There is good equipment out there for those on a budget, you just have to know what to look for.

 

[firstgo]

Well it looks like what I can afford would only be a hassle and not last very long. In this case, I wont be getting the amp. So with all of my decisions made, that KS so much for all of your help. Now I just have to save up!

 

[sleazebagger 10+ year member]

Well it looks like what I can afford would only be a hassle and not last very long. In this case, I wont be getting the amp. So with all of my decisions made, that KS so much for all of your help. Now I just have to save up!

Make sure you use the "thanks button" for all the pro advice^^^^

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

some more examples of some older amps that I had

Alpine mrpf300 ab class 4ch rated at 75x4 =300wrms with 50a of fuses. 50a x 6v= 300w Which is dead on for the manufacturer's rating, this is a cea 2006 compliant amp even at the lowest impedance ability, so we know it does it's rated power throughout the frequency spectrum.

You have to be careful with cea 2006 compliant ratings because some are only for certain impedance levels, some are rated at all of the impedance operating levels. For example, the Kenwood kac9105d is only cea 2006 compliant at 4 ohms. caraudiomag.com did a review of its predecessor kac9104d and found it put out nowhere near the power it was rated for at anything other than a 4 ohm load.

The owners manual will tell you about the power ratings and cea ratings if there are any, so its often best to find the owners manual online and compare specs there instead of what retailers list, because retailers often list specs wrong.

 

[treesive 10+ year member]

Go Pioneer if you have to buy cheap products. I think they make the best bang for the buck of about anything electronic. I am a huge fan of their headunits and had two of their cheapo 10" subs that had great sound. I agree with Kushy on about everything he has been educating you on. Heads up if you get a pioneer headunit and are wanting Bluetooth, look at the units a couple years old. They are way better than their new line that has a different bluetooth controller in them. I believe my model is two-three years old and it will play media and make calls with my phone. From what I have heard, the new ones only make calls.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Don't get Pioneer stuff unless its a headunit and you are really dead set on it. There are better performing products for the same price or less as Pioneer. I personally would never buy any of their stuff for this reason, plus their headunits almost always have grounding issues with the rca jacks on the back.

 

[firstgo]

Well I've decided on the clarion cz101 head unit. To be honest the only grievance I had with it was its looks, but at a second glance it matches my interior petty well. Its well priced, current and has everything I need. I found the infinity 6x9s for 50 and the Boston 3.5s for 30 bucks on Amazon. Making my whole budget under 200 dollars after wire harness and dash kit. Yay.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Sounds good, thats really coming in under budget //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif . You could even take that extra 100 thats left over and pick up a small 2channel amp to power the 6x9s and make even fit in some dynamat or other sound deadening material, that would really make things sound better.

Never let something limit your decision based off how it looks, its one of the stupidest things you could do.