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Full low budget system replacement
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<blockquote data-quote="THATpurpleKUSH" data-source="post: 7371206" data-attributes="member: 615398"><p>You want to find an amplifier that will match the power handling of your sub. You want to look at the rms power ratings. Also an adjustable high pass filter and sub sonic filter are good to have too. Cheaper amps will clip (distort) the signal sooner than a better made amp, which will affect how your sub plays and how long it will last. These cheap amps are made by: Pyle, Pyramid, Legacy, Boss, Lanzar and there are a few others.</p><p></p><p>If you are looking at an AB class amp, they typically run at 50-60% efficiency, so multiply this by 12volts and multiply that but the amount of fuses. If looking at a D class amp, they run closer to 75-80% efficiency so multiply this by 12. The amp will never draw the full amount of the fuses but you can use this as a rough estimate to put you in the ballpark.</p><p></p><p>watts = volts x amps</p><p></p><p>Ex #1- Take that first Pyle amp you listed. Its an AB class with 20a of fuses. 20amps x 6volts = 120watts rms. While this isn't the actual power it is very close and definitely safe to say it wont be over about 150wrms. Pyle doesn't even list rms power ratings because they are so ridiculously low, people would never buy their stuff, thats one of the reasons why they only rate at peak power.</p><p></p><p>Ex #2- My Rockford Fosgate mono has 140a of fuses built in and its a d class. 140amps x 9volts = 1260 watts rms. The manufacturer rates 1000watts rms at 1 ohm and my amp has a birthsheet of 1400wrms at 1ohm and is 76% efficient at 1 ohm. This amp is actually 40% under rated due to putting out 400wrms more than what its rated for. I'm not saying go out and buy a Rockford, but get a quality made amp.</p><p></p><p>In the end, you get what you pay for. There is good equipment out there for those on a budget, you just have to know what to look for.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="THATpurpleKUSH, post: 7371206, member: 615398"] You want to find an amplifier that will match the power handling of your sub. You want to look at the rms power ratings. Also an adjustable high pass filter and sub sonic filter are good to have too. Cheaper amps will clip (distort) the signal sooner than a better made amp, which will affect how your sub plays and how long it will last. These cheap amps are made by: Pyle, Pyramid, Legacy, Boss, Lanzar and there are a few others. If you are looking at an AB class amp, they typically run at 50-60% efficiency, so multiply this by 12volts and multiply that but the amount of fuses. If looking at a D class amp, they run closer to 75-80% efficiency so multiply this by 12. The amp will never draw the full amount of the fuses but you can use this as a rough estimate to put you in the ballpark. watts = volts x amps Ex #1- Take that first Pyle amp you listed. Its an AB class with 20a of fuses. 20amps x 6volts = 120watts rms. While this isn't the actual power it is very close and definitely safe to say it wont be over about 150wrms. Pyle doesn't even list rms power ratings because they are so ridiculously low, people would never buy their stuff, thats one of the reasons why they only rate at peak power. Ex #2- My Rockford Fosgate mono has 140a of fuses built in and its a d class. 140amps x 9volts = 1260 watts rms. The manufacturer rates 1000watts rms at 1 ohm and my amp has a birthsheet of 1400wrms at 1ohm and is 76% efficient at 1 ohm. This amp is actually 40% under rated due to putting out 400wrms more than what its rated for. I'm not saying go out and buy a Rockford, but get a quality made amp. In the end, you get what you pay for. There is good equipment out there for those on a budget, you just have to know what to look for. [/QUOTE]
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