FU750 12 -18 Spec sheet & n box design?

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thank you bro, you've been so helpful to me over this process...And that is what I listen to alot of re-bass hip-hop.

Looking at the graphs you post looked like u we're using my numbers, so does that mean the the design for the 32hrz I posted is ok? And I planned to double baffle and use a few 1 1/2" dows to stiffen up the box with cross bracing and angling them all to make the air flow smooth. Also planned on priming the entire inside and using a bed liner spray on the outside. Would it be ok to do .75" + .50" + .75" for the baffle, using a 1/2" mfd piece to triple it up instead of 3x .75" or but if when I lay my pattern out if I can't get it done with the double baffle in 2 sheets I'll buy a 3rd and just do it that way. I'm picking up a Craftsman table saw and the wood tomorrow, already got pounds of 1 5/8" and 2 1/2" deck screws, a huge bottle of Titebond III, a new drill bit set, a few tubes of silicone, a bunch of spiked T-Nuts and hex head bolts(only 1 1/2" cuz I planned for double .75 baffle) but I can change em out I got my reciepts. I found a nice looking plunge route table I'm trying to get too but idk if it's still available.

Anyways thank you Jeff can your friggin awesome bro!

I forget where that JVC model you posted was, what was it again plz?

Well if to class talk to y'all later.

yeah 32 hz is good to go. As long as you have bracing and a 2nd baffle then you are good to go. You dont really need triple if you have good enough bracing.

The head unit was posted on post number 14.

If you havent bought the wood yet, consider using 11 layered ply over mdf. Its stronger and a lot lighter at the same price point, overall superior by far. Might make the difference between keeping suspension stock or having to put airbag support.

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

yeah 32 hz is good to go. As long as you have bracing and a 2nd baffle then you are good to go. You dont really need triple if you have good enough bracing.
The head unit was posted on post number 14.

If you havent bought the wood yet, consider using 11 layered ply over mdf. Its stronger and a lot lighter at the same price point, overall superior by far. Might make the difference between keeping suspension stock or having to put airbag support.

Yea, I will go with the 11 ply... I feel more comfortable working with plywood over mdf anyway. I really wanted to do birch till I found out it was $60 a sheet lol... Being the first box I'm building I figured I probably ought not use that until I get some experience under belt an find a design I know will work good after a bit of experimentation.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Yea, I will go with the 11 ply... I feel more comfortable working with plywood over mdf anyway. I really wanted to do birch till I found out it was $60 a sheet lol... Being the first box I'm building I figured I probably ought not use that until I get some experience under belt an find a design I know will work good after a bit of experimentation.

Birch is always gonna cost more than MDF. My last box I built, I set aside 100 bucks knowing I wanted baltic birch. Had to drive to another city to get it.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Yea, I will go with the 11 ply... I feel more comfortable working with plywood over mdf anyway. I really wanted to do birch till I found out it was $60 a sheet lol... Being the first box I'm building I figured I probably ought not use that until I get some experience under belt an find a design I know will work good after a bit of experimentation.

thats not real birch thats the same plywood with a birch veneer so you are just paying 30 dollars extra for veneer lol. The real baltic birch is 100+ dollars a sheet and not sold in home depot or lowes. Still, i dont really think its worth it at all, just bragging rights. 11 ply is like old faithful. holding up 400lbs of subs with zero issues smashing 20hz all the times.

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

Birch is always gonna cost more than MDF. My last box I built, I set aside 100 bucks knowing I wanted baltic birch. Had to drive to another city to get it.

So how would 3/4 maple or oak work? I'm having hard time even finding birch here locally in 3/4... And it is worth the extra $16 a sheet to just do it in a hard wood over mdf anyway no? I'm thinking I mine as well just get the birch if I can find it... Or one of these maple or oak... But it be heavy AF no? But isnt that good for a sub box anyway if I'm will to go through at route?

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

yeah 32 hz is good to go. As long as you have bracing and a 2nd baffle then you are good to go. You dont really need triple if you have good enough bracing.
The head unit was posted on post number 14.

If you havent bought the wood yet, consider using 11 layered ply over mdf. Its stronger and a lot lighter at the same price point, overall superior by far. Might make the difference between keeping suspension stock or having to put airbag support.

So how would 3/4 maple or oak work? I'm having hard time even finding birch here locally in 3/4... And it is worth the extra $16 a sheet to just do it in a hard wood over mdf anyway no? I'm thinking I mine as well just get the birch if I can find it... Or one of these maple or oak... But it be heavy AF no? But isnt that good for a sub box anyway if I'm will to go through at route?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So how would 3/4 maple or oak work? I'm having hard time even finding birch here locally in 3/4... And it is worth the extra $16 a sheet to just do it in a hard wood over mdf anyway no? I'm thinking I mine as well just get the birch if I can find it... Or one of these maple or oak... But it be heavy AF no? But isnt that good for a sub box anyway if I'm will to go through at route?

just keep it 11 ply man. Dont make it more complicated then it needs to be.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

So how would 3/4 maple or oak work? I'm having hard time even finding birch here locally in 3/4... And it is worth the extra $16 a sheet to just do it in a hard wood over mdf anyway no? I'm thinking I mine as well just get the birch if I can find it... Or one of these maple or oak... But it be heavy AF no? But isnt that good for a sub box anyway if I'm will to go through at route?

I've seen, and seeing more, of wood types enclosure builders use. MDF, baltic birch, wood pine, osb, etc you name it.

Really it's up to you. Yes you pay more for the expensive wood but it weighs less than mdf. If you can find some 11 layer pine, that will work too. Screw HD and Lowes....those guys sell junk Chinese made boards that supposily is good but isn't. What I did was visit local lumber stores, not "mainstream" ones like HD and Lowes. I got my wood at Dunn Lumber.

You could also do a Google search in your area or within 25 miles of your residence. I did this and came up with 4-5 different lumberyards.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='Jeffdachef']just keep it 11 ply man. Dont make it more complicated then it needs to be.[/QUOTE]
@Jeffdachef, you got that wood test handy, a link or vid, of diff boards? I think it was a strength test....?

 

[ChaseinBass]

[quote name='ChaseinBass']Fair enough, I wasn't really trying to be a di_k but it did sound that way. Pioneer Prs 80 only way to go in a single
din unit without buying a dsp . More money but you won't have to replace it in a couple weeks ya know ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

I stand correct (again) lol I would honestly give that JVC @Jeffdachef recomended for under 80 bucks why not ? Dude is pretty spot on with his recomendations too !

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

just keep it 11 ply man. Dont make it more complicated then it needs to be.

I've called tons of places, nobody carries anything 11ply... Pretty much the only thing I could find was 3/4" Baltic Birch sheets for $87, in 3/4" mostly what everyone carries here is either 1/2" or 5/8" and those were only cheaper by a lil bit. So I'm just gonna pull the trigger on the birch I found. It's raining today an I don't have anywhere to work inside so I'll keep looking until I'm leaving to actually get the wood.

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

Update:!!!!

I found a pace that has 5'x5' Russian Birch 13 ply 3/4" sheets. $36 each.

I did my cut out mock up in a note book an I should be able to do it with 3 sheets with plenty of scrap left over for bracing.

Which leads to a new question, say I don't have enough scrap to finish with the bracing I wanna do. Could I just use some 1"X4" common wood to finish up the bracing or should I use something else. I have 1 5/8" and 2 1/2" deck screws I think will be sufficient or should I get some 3" also to help hold the double baffle down? 1.5" with a bit of a counter sink should give plenty enough but tho. I'm am thinking put a screw every 3" - 4" or is that over kill?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Update:!!!!I found a pace that has 5'x5' Russian Birch 13 ply 3/4" sheets. $36 each.

I did my cut out mock up in a note book an I should be able to do it with 3 sheets with plenty of scrap left over for bracing.

Which leads to a new question, say I don't have enough scrap to finish with the bracing I wanna do. Could I just use some 1"X4" common wood to finish up the bracing or should I use something else. I have 1 5/8" and 2 1/2" deck screws I think will be sufficient or should I get some 3" also to help hold the double baffle down? 1.5" with a bit of a counter sink should give plenty enough but tho. I'm am thinking put a screw every 3" - 4" or is that over kill?

wooden dowels should be used for bracing. Its round, wont interrupt airflow.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

wooden dowels should be used for bracing. Its round, wont interrupt airflow.

1"-1.5" dia ok for bracing? I think that's about the typical sizes.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

1"-1.5" dia ok for bracing? I think that's about the typical sizes.

Yeah.