FU750 12 -18 Spec sheet & n box design?

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Here's a video on BOSS products. This is their "1500" watt amp. guess how much power it really makes. You can expect the same level of performance delivery with ANY boss product you buy. It doesn't have the king of car audio garbage title for nothing. testing starts at 4:20. Again this is the amp that has the most 4-5 star reviews on amazon most purchased amp. Do you think you can trust any of the reviews after seeing a properly done professional bench test using 10k dollar equipment? Do you think any of those reviewers actually know what they are talking about?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omK1eyFqc08&t=560s


[quote name='Boomin_tahoe']Boss is known for junk...and cheapness. Imma get someone in here that will tell you exactly the same thing. @Jeffdachef You got good equipment, but lack the branded HU....People don't understand that's the brain of the audio system and if you cheap out now, it's not gonna sound good on that Boss no matter what you do/how hard you try. Get yourself a good branded HU with tons of features. Many on the market for around 200 bucks, and it's well within your pricepoint.[/QUOTE]

i was civil this time.

 

[bigblank69 10+ year member]

I truly don't understand the goals of a lot of people on here for car audio. This thread is a good example of that. Why in the world would someone go out and get Dual 18's, a 2000W amp, pretty solid wiring and then at the last moment.... Cheap the F out and get a SH*T Head Unit and be dead set on it. I already think anyone who is serious about sound should always run mids and highs off an amplifier and not the HU (Unless its an All out SPL vehicle that does one thing and thats burp out a bass note), but at least if your going to do that.. make sure its a DECENT HU. The source unit is always the most important part, don't cheap out there...

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

Only dead set because i don't wanna chop my dash right now, (only accepts single din). I have a Panasonic DD head unit that I was so disappointed it wouldn't fit. And yea, I was worried that, that with the loud bass it would make any pop screen fail pretty much no matter what I bought.

It's not that I'm just gonna do what ever I want regardless of what y'all say here, I will just argue my thoughts and opinions until someone gives me facts, not their opinion...

Anyway now that I know this will won't work out I'll probably just start looking for something used that's nice. I seen a Clarion HU someone was trying to let go for like $75 on Facebook that I was thinking about.

Again thanks for the help. Guess I start looking at some other box designs. That was the original idea to make the 20cft and end up around 18- 18.5 cft but I can't get the tune past low 20's with that design at that volume. So perhaps I'll go back to those measurements for that volume and start trying to rework the port.

 

[ChaseinBass]

Only dead set because i don't wanna chop my dash right now, (only accepts single din). I have a Panasonic DD head unit that I was so disappointed it wouldn't fit. And yea, I was worried that, that with the loud bass it would make any pop screen fail pretty much no matter what I bought.It's not that I'm just gonna do what ever I want regardless of what y'all say here, I will just argue my thoughts and opinions until someone gives me facts, not their opinion...

Anyway now that I know this will won't work out I'll probably just start looking for something used that's nice. I seen a Clarion HU someone was trying to let go for like $75 on Facebook that I was thinking about.

Again thanks for the help. Guess I start looking at some other box designs. That was the original idea to make the 20cft and end up around 18- 18.5 cft but I can't get the tune past low 20's with that design at that volume. So perhaps I'll go back to those measurements for that volume and start trying to rework the port.

Get one then you can have solid facts LOL BOSS= Big Old Sheet Sucker but hey might work great for you ?

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

Get one then you can have solid facts LOL BOSS= Big Old Sheet Sucker but hey might work great for you ?

It's wonderful how some of you just give me crap for some of the things I ask, I can live with that. But he'll, at least follow it up with, "hey, check this HU out" or recommend me something that will be good for what I'm doing. I already know now that it was stupid to think about that unit for my application, it doesn't need to be reiterated a dozen more times, by a dozen more people who really dont care to help anyone really, they just like running their c0ck suckers on the internet. Hell head unit question was just an afterthought what I really need help with is coming up with a box design that will at the very least not ****.

But hey, I ain't mad at cha.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

dude i know more than anyone what it's like trying to tells guys here something is good and they don't wanta here it.. however i also seen lot of peeps with low end hu have cd skip every time bass hits, no use in all that $ fot subs and amps if hu can't handle bass.. preout may end up 1/2 volts it says.. idk dvd players in car at all but if u want good stereo i'd go without it or spend more $ on better one..

 

[ChaseinBass]

Fair enough, I wasn't really trying to be a di_k but it did sound that way. Pioneer Prs 80 only way to go in a single

din unit without buying a dsp . More money but you won't have to replace it in a couple weeks ya know ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

Fair enough, I wasn't really trying to be a di_k but it did sound that way. Prs 80 only way to go in a single din unit without buying a dsp . More money but you won't have to replace it in a couple weeks ya know ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool, i'll have to check that one out. (that was cool of you also btw, i appreciate how you responded)

I wasnt even really caring about the head unit that much because i have a decent JVC already and a nice double din Panasonic radio, i was just wanting something fancy looking but this is the reason i ask about stuff because i know the peeps here will tell me how it is... i dont care if they are even rather harsh about it, but i like to know why. even if i was like ok boss is POS, and went and bought a $250 one would still have failed because of the reason explained earlier by i think Jeff. And like someone mentioned before about mids and hi's being amplified, after i fix the valve guide seals in my heads after the end of this sub and amp project, ill be moving on to adding a component set. But i have no idea how any of that would work yet. have to figure out if you ampify them before or after the cross overs because in my van i have dash speakers, no door speakers. so i wanna add the Mids to the doors and put the tweeter on the very bottom of the a pillar because from what i was reading you dont want to have the component set separated by more than 18" to 24".

I have a very bad habit of pissing money away because i'm impatient. i be like "hmmm.... ill buy this cheap pos for now so i can have something now, and then replace it later with something nicer. i know this is a terrible habit and a horrible waste of money, so ive been trying to change my way of thinking about **** like that, but as yall can see it's now fully set in my brain yet. as you can see by my return to this cheap bs i wanna put in my ride lol.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

really think about that jvc i recommended. Its leagues above whatever you can find used. Just because the head unit looks okay doesnt mean its any good audio wise. The JVC i recommended has audio options that completely future proofs you for anything you'd ever want to do. for 80 dollars and gives you all the wiring harness and vehicle dash kits you want.

That 75 dollar clarion you were looking at, i guarantee you its a 100% wont ever hold a candle to it.

You said yourself you dont really know how mids and highs will work yet. Then you'll have to trust us when we say the head unit is massively important and the capabilities it can do really shapes how your system can be designed both flexibility and overall potential wise. You'll want it to be loud enough to keep up with your 18s or else anyone that demos your car will be like... wtf? i cant hear the lyrics, yuck. That's gonna be a legit issue that most bassheads run into, i was guilty when i first started out too so dont worry.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I really need help with is coming up with a box design that will at the very least not ****.

The tuning will be your preference. 35hz+ will work better with rock and normal music etc... 32 will work with deep hip hop songs and re-bassed music like decaf etc.. 29hz will be mainly rebassed music. this graph shows what the frequency response will be like.

With those port areas on 1500 clamped rms, you wont see any port noise.

However I would completely recommend doing at least a double + bracing or triple baffle for your FU 18s. You can afford to lose out a little airspace just to do another baffle. They need it.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

In my experience reliable touch screens are only found in the double din size because the screen has a more solid mount and not some flimsy mechanism.

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

The tuning will be your preference. 35hz+ will work better with rock and normal music etc... 32 will work with deep hip hop songs and re-bassed music like decaf etc.. 29hz will be mainly rebassed music. this graph shows what the frequency response will be like.

With those port areas on 1500 clamped rms, you wont see any port noise.

However I would completely recommend doing at least a double + bracing or triple baffle for your FU 18s. You can afford to lose out a little airspace just to do another baffle. They need it.

Thank you bro, you've been so helpful to me over this process...

And that is what I listen to alot of re-bass hip-hop.

Looking at the graphs you post looked like u we're using my numbers, so does that mean the the design for the 32hrz I posted is ok? And I planned to double baffle and use a few 1 1/2" dows to stiffen up the box with cross bracing and angling them all to make the air flow smooth. Also planned on priming the entire inside and using a bed liner spray on the outside. Would it be ok to do .75" + .50" + .75" for the baffle, using a 1/2" mfd piece to triple it up instead of 3x .75" or but if when I lay my pattern out if I can't get it done with the double baffle in 2 sheets I'll buy a 3rd and just do it that way. I'm picking up a Craftsman table saw and the wood tomorrow, already got pounds of 1 5/8" and 2 1/2" deck screws, a huge bottle of Titebond III, a new drill bit set, a few tubes of silicone, a bunch of spiked T-Nuts and hex head bolts(only 1 1/2" cuz I planned for double .75 baffle) but I can change em out I got my reciepts. I found a nice looking plunge route table I'm trying to get too but idk if it's still available.

Anyways thank you Jeff can your friggin awesome bro!

I forget where that JVC model you posted was, what was it again plz?

Well if to class talk to y'all later.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

dude i know more than anyone what it's like trying to tells guys here something is good and they don't wanta here it..

LMAO!!! Yeah right...

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

LMAO!!! Yeah right...

x2

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

dude i know more than anyone what it's like trying to tells guys here something is good and they don't wanta here it.. however i also seen lot of peeps with low end hu have cd skip every time bass hits, no use in all that $ fot subs and amps if hu can't handle bass.. preout may end up 1/2 volts it says.. idk dvd players in car at all but if u want good stereo i'd go without it or spend more $ on better one..

wtf?

When's the English version come out?